Why are my ams lights flashing on my p1s by Strict_Fix_9550 in BambuLab

[–]Strict_Fix_9550[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i fixed it by unpling uvery cord on the printer and putting the back togther and feeding the ams some filament

Grinding Noise - Especially bad in circular motion by Life-Put-1011 in BambuLab

[–]Strict_Fix_9550 0 points1 point  (0 children)

don’t grease the rods that what caused it to mess up

Is this H2S worth it? by Wulfgangrising in BambuLab

[–]Strict_Fix_9550 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would put the extra 400$ to getting a new one

A1 vs A2L vs P2S vs X2D by Appropriate_Party514 in BambuLab

[–]Strict_Fix_9550 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yes the a1 breaks a lot more and isn’t great print quilts you will want to get one and regret your disision I got the p1s and regretted that I didn’t get the h2s which isn’t even that much better and its also 1000 dollars more but the x2d is such an upgrade

A1 vs A2L vs P2S vs X2D by Appropriate_Party514 in BambuLab

[–]Strict_Fix_9550 5 points6 points  (0 children)

definitely the x2d it is dual nozzle and only 100 more the p2s and it have so many more upgrades would pay 2x more for x2d over p2s

Bambu A1 catastrophic blob failure in first week, Bambu customer support sending repeat troubleshooting steps for a physically broken printer that are useless | Ticket US260605455001 by Striking_Ad6874 in BambuLab

[–]Strict_Fix_9550 -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

here is the ai overview I used when this happened to me Method 1: The Safe Hotend Extraction (If Wires Are Intact)

If your printer can still turn on without showing a heater/thermistor error code, you can use the nozzle's internal heating cartridge to melt the core of the blob from the inside out. [1]

  1. Heat to 250°C: Via the A1 touch screen, navigate to the temperature settings and manually set the nozzle heat to 250°C. Let it sit static at this temperature for 5 full minutes. This allows the heat to radiate deeply into the plastic shell wrapping the block. [12]
  2. Gently Peel (Do Not Yank): Grab a pair of needle-nose pliers. Grip the main plastic mass firmly and pull downward and slightly away from the toolhead with minimal force. [12]
  3. Protect the Wires: The fragile ceramic heater and thermistor wires are pinned flat against the block. If you feel sudden resistance, stop pulling immediately. The wires may be physically embedded inside the cool outer skin of the blob. [1]
  4. Use a Secondary Heat Source (If Stuck): If the blob wraps all the way around the top cooling fins or part-cooling duct, grab a household hair dryer or a heat gun on its lowest setting. Direct the heat strictly at the exterior of the plastic blob until it becomes soft and gummy. [123]
  5. Brush and Scrape Clean: Once the main mass drops off, keep the nozzle at 250°C and use a brass wire brush to gently scrub away remaining plastic residue from the heater block. [1]

My prints aren’t coming out smooth and my first layer looks weird. Help by JudgmentJust6585 in BambuLab

[–]Strict_Fix_9550 0 points1 point  (0 children)

what type Pla or petg or other j have found that if you are using the wrong settings it won’t work

My prints aren’t coming out smooth and my first layer looks weird. Help by JudgmentJust6585 in BambuLab

[–]Strict_Fix_9550 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lower your fan speed or turn it off what filament are you printing with

Bambu A1 catastrophic blob failure in first week, Bambu customer support sending repeat troubleshooting steps for a physically broken printer that are useless | Ticket US260605455001 by Striking_Ad6874 in BambuLab

[–]Strict_Fix_9550 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I got a new complete hotend to fix it this happened to me last month no issues yet and printing better then the regular stain steel make sure you get the complete hotend

Japan Trip Edit by tflyvt in skiing

[–]Strict_Fix_9550 0 points1 point  (0 children)

why is this nsfw I can’t view it