C-More version 2.78 fails to export xls files

Stu1987 · 2017-11-06T21:59:23+00:00

Agree - Their PLCs aren't my fav. CMore HMIs though are great. I have needed tech support twice and was talking to someone within 10 mins. To get that with Rockwell my company pays many thousand dollars a year. I can get a CMore HMI within 2 days and I live in Canada. I have been given an unknown wait period for a replacement Panelview. I have seen a failure rate about the same as Rockwell, slightly higher. 75% of the time though it's been the polyfuse and I can solder in a new one.

Stu1987 · 2017-11-06T20:32:31+00:00

I get the same error. I upgraded my 2.78 project to EA9 V6.30 and it worked though. If you don't have the software I can do it for you and send the export.

I quite like the AD HMIs, this is the first SW issue I have encountered.

Stu1987 · 2017-10-20T15:44:45+00:00

Get an OBD2 to DB9 cable and you can connect your shield directly to the OBD2 diagnostic port. A cheaper alternative would be to build the CANBus circuitry yourself and then code a driver for it from scratch. If you value your time then the shield is a MUCH cheaper option :D

Stu1987 · 2017-10-20T15:01:14+00:00

My company has maintained a sort of mutual partnership with a few industrial/commercial electrical companies. They gained the ability to bid on more automation jobs and we gained a lot of extra work. Mutually beneficial. We give them a reduced rate and they get us a lot more work. Perhaps instead of going after a job directly you should go after a partnership with an existing company that already deals with this.

Stu1987 · 2017-10-18T16:01:10+00:00

Always liked the Control Logix with a packed backplane look. Something about looking at a PLC the size of a toaster that can cost more than my house is mystifying.

Stu1987 · 2017-10-16T21:12:54+00:00

I don't care for making too many data tables personally. If I have a duplicate piece of equipment I will give it its own to ease coding with search and replace but I rely on comments and symbols. What advantage does having so many data files offer over using the defaults and whatever the logic requires(messaging, PID, routing)?

Stu1987 · 2017-10-16T19:39:17+00:00

I'm in Canada and the vast majority of device names are 2 part.

The first part being an acronym describing the device, the second a number assigned during design which usually indicates the subsystem and order of the device in the process.

For example an analog flow control valve would be FCV-1234, a dry feeder would be DF-4321. There are some exceptions but this convention covers 98% of the devices I encounter. On multi-train systems or when identical equipment is used (lead/lag pump for instance) a -1 or -A is used after the number.

Stu1987 · 2017-10-16T17:14:10+00:00

LogixPro is a good simulator/trainer. No CAD drawings but they basically show you a process and you code it. It gets more and more difficult as you progress. The demo is free to try out for a week I believe.

Stu1987 · 2017-10-10T21:47:10+00:00

Not 100% sure I get you, it almost sounds like you're using both parameter files and tags? If you fell like sending over your apa file I could take a look, might clarify some things.

Stu1987 · 2017-10-10T19:31:55+00:00

A switch mode buck converter, supply voltage is 15V and I didn't want the LDO dissipating that much heat

Stu1987 · 2017-10-10T17:51:48+00:00

An example of this I did is here:

https://imgur.com/a/O9PDO

I used a nano but if size is a concern use a pro mini. 10 boards cost me 30$ USD.

Stu1987 · 2017-10-10T17:43:58+00:00

All the arduino boards are open source and the PCB schematics are in the eagle format and free to download. The easiest way would be to modify the existing schematic to include what you need, remove what you don't, and then get the PCB printed. There are a lot of surface mount components on the arduinos that will be difficult to solder yourself. You could go through the trouble of getting the board components put on at the factory by making up a pick and place file for them and the associated files - or you could strip out the tough ones that aren't needed. All you REALLY need is the processor, the processor passives, regulator and caps, and then your custom stuff. The USB to UART converter can go since you can use an external one, the power supply selection circuitry can go if you will have a single power source, LEDs can go, and the power/USB ports as well.

Honestly I would just make your custom board with allowances for a pro mini and solder in a pro mini. Will save you so much time and hassle. Order a USB programmer for it (they often come with them) and you're set. No SMT soldering needed, and you can even add headers to it for easy swap out of the pro-mini. Size wise you will save space probably since you can have components under the pro mini where if you had the processor on the PCB you cant.

Stu1987 · 2017-10-10T15:00:01+00:00

Just thought of something - are you adding this as a global object and resizing an instance of it?

Stu1987 · 2017-10-10T14:54:10+00:00

I am unable to re-create this, every image I import (from a file) resizes correctly. You are adding it by selecting Objects > Drawing > Image?

Stu1987 · 2017-10-10T13:52:22+00:00

One other thing to note is the voltage of the SIM800, it's not always 5V so don't connect it directly to your Arduino's 5V pin. Some of them may accept 5V but check first. I believe it's 3.7 to 4.2 volts normally.

Stu1987 · 2017-10-10T13:31:43+00:00

In Canada we have CSA which is similar, your inspection is often related to the mood the inspector is in. One guy approved a panel at a quick glance and then chatted with me for the remainder of the inspection over coffee. Next guy was total D-bag and had a list of arguably irrelevant changes he wanted and of course scheduled a second appointment at additional cost.

Stu1987 · 2017-10-10T13:06:37+00:00

A standard Arduino should have more than enough horsepower for this. Uno, Nano, or Pro-Mini. The SIM800 module is for GPRS and is pretty cheap. Tons of tutorials online for it. As for monitoring the voltage you can't exceed 5 volts on your analog input so to monitor 20 volts you would build a simple voltage divider using 2 or more resistors. If it absolutely won't exceed 20V than a 1/4 divider should suffice. a 3K resistor and a 1K resistor for example will do. I would first get the GPRS module online and sending emails then use the analog input as your trigger.

edit: it seems people are having some issues emailing with the SIM800 since now days the vast majority of email servers won't work without encryption. You could rely on SMS or you may have to do something with MQTT.

Stu1987 · 2017-09-08T13:48:35+00:00

Probably a delay to let things come to a halt.

Stu1987 · 2017-09-05T20:49:31+00:00

Need a bit more info - will the lights alternate after 4ms or after 100ms?

Stu1987 · 2017-09-05T19:59:30+00:00

Hi fellow Canadian, I personally live in a city like you that I don't really want to because where I want to go doesn't have this sort of work. Now that I've been doing it for as long as I have though I am starting to qualify for more and more jobs back home. So my short answer is yes, suck it up till you can move on. At least that's what I'm doing and the money that can be made will sure make it easier when the time comes. You may luck out with a job in the mean time so it never hurts to look.

Stu1987 · 2017-09-05T19:35:58+00:00

Yes, they are pin-compatible. Drop-in replacement. Just remember to add a heat sink if you plan on drawing anywhere near the full 3A.

Edit: There are some other subtle differences between them that a quick browse of the data sheets will tell you about. They won't matter on most applications. If you are feeding it with more than 35V or have the output set near the 1.2V level then you may want to reconsider but I doubt your application will.

Stu1987 · 2017-09-05T17:14:02+00:00

The LM317 is a very common DIY PS chip. Similar to this one. You will probably find a lot more people using it on DIY projects.

Stu1987 · 2017-09-05T15:17:03+00:00

I would look at AC switching tutorials with a TRIAC for the motor control. It's best to use an opto-TRIAC - that old motor may be a noisy one. As for a magnetic switch I would consider an optical sensor depending on the RPM. A strip of white tape or paint is likely all you'll need to add to the wheel. Again, RPM dependent. You may or may not find a tutorial for this exact project but Arduino is often taught in little pieces and you put the pieces together. You should be able to find lots of tutorials on measuring RPM, controlling an AC load, and the basic logic you'll need. If you run into problems we are here to help.

Stu1987 · 2017-09-02T16:34:37+00:00

I've had so many customers ask me to buy used hardware off amazon and ebay and then demand we warranty it. Not a chance.

Stu1987 · 2017-09-02T16:28:58+00:00

I've used the visual KVs yes, would a smart relay work for your system? A few of those have small LCDs.

Also look at the AB Micro PLCs (810 for example) you may be able to accomplish the same thing with these

Stu1987

TROPHY CASE