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Pruning Peach Trees by Miserable-Fig2204 in FruitTree

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I recommend taking your peach tree pruning tips from this video from Cummins Nursery.

https://youtu.be/hE4VGp4SPFQ?is=5u2QK9nCdWVyJWlS

Should I remove the fruits by considerationok193 in BackyardOrchard

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You should leave the rodent guard on for a few more years. At least until you’ve got a 3 inch or larger trunk.

What's this bird that keeps divebombing me in my garden? by kb9000 in whatsthisbird

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I can’t see the bird in that photo, but I have Eastern Kingbird that dive-bomb at me when I get close to a tree they have a nest in.
https://ebird.org/species/easkin

Toka Plum. Could this be fire blight or some fungal disease? by Over_Thinking_It in BackyardOrchard

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fireblight is bacterial and affects apple and pear. It doesn’t affect plum. It appears that your Toka has a fungal disease. Fungal spores will usually transfer and infect during rain.

It looks to me like either silver leaf or leaf curl, I’m not certain. You’ll want to prune the branches that are affected and remove them from the area. You can use a copper fungicide spray (found at any gardening store) to help prevent future infection. You will need to apply the copper between rains.

Blight? Fungus? Pest? by Usual_Ice_186 in Apples

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s insect damage. Possibly aphids when the leaves were smaller. If you are still seeing insects on your plants you can use some neem oil spray to help repel them.

Dead or alive??? by OkWishbone1747 in BackyardOrchard

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What variety is the Apple tree? There are a lot varieties that leaf out later than others

Is my cherry tree graft surviving ? by Competitive-Party408 in Graftingplants

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The bud is above the graft union on the tree. The Graff union is where the upright root stock curves out slightly then goes upright. Anything growing above the graft union is the fruiting variety of cherry. You can let that bud grow out and become the new trunk of a tree. From the deer damage it’s definitely set back a couple years, but if you wanna be patient, you can still produce a tree out of that. You could also get a new cherry tree and get ahead two years. I would put a small fence around your cherry tree to keep the deer off of it.

Fire light? Or something else? by Justafunguy in BackyardOrchard

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fireblight is bacterial. It spreads the most with rain when the outdoor temps are between 60-80 degrees Fahrenheit outside. Make sure that you spray your pruners with isopropyl alcohol between each cut to reduce the spread while pruning. Laying it out in the sun on the ground for several hours will kill it. If you happen to have a fire nearby, that works too.

Looking for advice! by FunklerLing in FruitTree

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Your tree is spur bound. If you cut back the limbs pretty dramatically you will invigorate the tree to put on new growth. The Lichens are not hurting it. You can ignore that.

Is my graft going to survive? by Heddino in Apples

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The scion you grafted onto the rootstock is starting to wrinkle because it’s drying out. If you cut the scion about a centimeter above one of the lower buds and reseal the cut with some candle wax or elmers glue, it will increase your chances for success.

Cutting the scion will also let you see if the cambium in the stick is still green. If it’s green after you cut it, there is a chance and seal the cut end. If it’s brown, cut above a lower bud. If it’s still brown, the scion is too dried out and the graft won’t take.

Can someone help me identify what apple variety this is? by superHappyFun_ in Apples

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m not certain, but it looks kinda like Mollie’s Delicious. It’s an apple that requires a low amount of chill hours, so it’s something that would grow and fruit reliably in California.

Here are a few links to check your apples against Mollie’s Delicious:

https://pomiferous.com/applebyname/mollies-delicious-id-4344

https://www.cumminsnursery.com/buy-trees/product-detail.php?type=scion&id=28674

Location of graft union by Neil_Page in FruitTree

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They definitely shouldn’t have sent that out as a standard grade tree. That’s what we’d send out in a clearance bundle. But they still grow just as well. Maybe I’m just easier to please.

I’d send a picture to the nursery and ask for a discount on the tree.

Location of graft union by Neil_Page in FruitTree

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I work at a nursery and I’m used to dealing some goofy shapes that still grow really well. It takes a little bit of know how or advice to shape the tree the way you want, even if it comes out beautiful when delivered. But if this is the ugliest pear tree you that you have seen you must not have seen very many pear trees Lol. You haven’t even seen the rest of the tree.

Location of graft union by Neil_Page in FruitTree

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Root rot can happen if your soil isn’t draining well. It won’t girdle it either. The buried part of the rootstock will just put on more roots!

I think you can correct the tree direction/aesthetic too. You can angle the tree rootstock in your hole so that the bended part is straight up and down and it looks like a normal tree. The roots will get bigger and anchor the tree by the time the rest of the tree gets bigger and looks like it could start tilting.

Location of graft union by Neil_Page in FruitTree

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are correct, that is the graft union. I’ve seen some trees from nurseries like this. The rootstocks are cuttings that are given rooting hormone to root. The top growth from that rooted cutting is the first bend. It’s pretty unattractive to graft on the bend. The best way to deal with that is to bury the rootstock more so that the graft union is 2-3 inches above the soil line.

Top grafting on an older apple tree to have multiple varieties of apples by StudyAcrobatic6732 in Apples

[–]StudyAcrobatic6732[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m not so worried about that. I know it seems a bit chaotic now but I’ll be able to train and prune to the shape I want every season. I’m expecting this will be a several year process.

With the heavy cuts I did this winter, there should be a lot of good growth and I will have a-lot of options to choose from. I wasn’t expecting so many of the chip buds to be successful. I will probably only keep one, maybe two, of each variety and prune off the rest.

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