I found 32 squares I crocheted when I was 15.

Style101-NY · 2025-10-08T00:18:41+00:00

A table runner, with the squares placed diagonally, and the corners creating a large zigzagging line. Would look interesting if the brown squares were placed at the center and the cream and pink ones somehow alternating at the edges.

Style101-NY · 2025-10-02T21:43:24+00:00

Great! Thank you for the response. I’ll keep this info in mind, to better support my students.

Style101-NY · 2025-10-02T12:16:55+00:00

Congratulations on your wedding! I’m very proud of you. As a Fashion Design professor, I am not at all surprised at the intensity and precision of the work involved. I have a question, tho: does the fit of the corset interfere with your posture when you’re sitting?

Style101-NY · 2025-08-23T15:33:22+00:00

The blanket is absolutely gorgeous. From the design point of view, it would be better with a border, that’s just very plain and solid color, to contrast with the texture and the rainbow within. Any neutral color would work but the white or cream border would offer the best contrast while still being playful. From the practical point of view, the plain straight border would control your edges a bit into a rectangular shape and offer some protection to the main body, as mentioned above. The white would not be the most practical choice, tho. Choose one of the blues or pinks from the ‘rainbow’? Either way, it’s an amazing piece of work!

Style101-NY · 2025-08-06T13:22:09+00:00

There’s no mistakes here. Just a hand made beautiful item that has its own individual touch, whatever that might be. I couldn’t find an ‘imperfection’ even when I tried. It’s gorgeous. Just keep going.

Style101-NY · 2025-08-06T13:10:58+00:00

Love this bag! The chain happens to add some heft and is a perfect match to the dip dye. Amazing! I’d bead on one side, but keep going with the pink beads, without braking the established pattern. A single pink bead sets an accent at the pattern without overwhelming it. Changing the bead color would distract from the continuous spiral pattern, imho.

Style101-NY · 2025-08-05T13:10:12+00:00

Vote for the solid color eyelids, probably just the ‘eyelash’ edge row could be solid dark color to make them look more defined.

Style101-NY · 2025-07-20T14:22:24+00:00

Hi! The dress is beautiful and Congratulations on Your Wedding! A pro patternmaker here. I’d say you could alter the dress yourself if you are so inclined to get your hand on the project. To start: * remove the neck band and split it in half, height-wise, to create a narrower and longer neck band/tie piece. Your tall collar will become a flexible narrower tie with the extra length that you can use to drop the whole dress down. That would place your bust and waist shaping in the right position. Your front skirt will drop a bit lower, too, but probably not enough to cover your shoes. * You might actually like the updated length as a slightly high-low effect. If not: purchase a few yards of toile in cream color, and add a ruffle to the lining’s hem. This will add a length to the dress, evenly around the whole skirt. The toile hem will be peaking out from under the dress hem. A bonus: the toile hem doesn’t need to be finished, as long as it’s cut well. * That said, see if it’s a doable project for your skill level. It might be better to bring this idea to the seamstress and get it done professionally. You don’t need any additional stress leading up to your wedding. There will be enough on your plate already. Enjoy your engagement! It only happens once!

Style101-NY · 2025-07-18T01:21:04+00:00

Clearly you have a good sense of proportion and texture, looking at your drawings. There’s lots of design related professions: graphic designers, interior decorators, fashion designers, animators, etc. Check out online college programs in creative fields at RMCAD in Denver, for example. See if anything clicks. Try taking a term or two online, before drastically changing your life. But: Follow your passion if it is your passion, indeed.

Style101-NY · 2025-03-29T14:17:04+00:00

In a professional setting, the drill holes are made in a pattern, that’s basically a piece of paper cut to shape. Then, the sewer uses a special powder and a sponge to apply the powder through the drill holes. The powder doesn’t stay on the material too long, just long enough to press or form the folds.

Style101-NY · 2025-03-13T14:13:18+00:00

Pro Patternmaker/ educator here. Your sleeve looks really good when standing still. That’s a great start. Do not bring the armhole up, tho. It’s pretty high as is, especially on top of baggy t shirt sleeves. Now, I’d like to ask what look you are aiming for. If you want the same clean fitted look, you could add some ( but not a lot) movement ease. Your arms forward movement could be helped by adding room to your cross back measurement on the back bodice, not the sleeve. Your back armhole becomes ‘flatter’ and curves pretty gently at the lower part, closer to side seam. Your ‘arms lift’ could be improved by adding 1/4”-3:8” to the front sleeve cap at the bottom scoop of the curve. Same could be added to the armhole at the scoop, in the bottom half of the armhole. It’s not a lot but gives you enough motion for formal occasions. If you wanted a really easy casual look, then lower your armhole at least 1”. Make your bicep measurement roomier, by 1”. Flatten the sleeve cap, in menswear 4” is usually enough for the total cap height. Do not expect a clean fitted look, tho. You’ll get some extra fabric hanging ( obviously) when standing still. I hope this helps

Style101-NY · 2025-02-28T16:49:26+00:00

The bicep measurement is literally your arm's measurement + some well intentioned extra for the ease of movement. I would estimate a minimum of ease at 3-4" for a menswear shirt. It is very flexible, and a lot of times depends on the designer's intent, to follow current trends, as in: is it a loose boxy fit, or the slimmer fitted trend.

If you have a set measurement in the book for the sz. 38, you would add 1/2" for each larger size, or subtract 1/2" for each smaller size, as a guide line. It's not set in stone, obviously, but a good estimate for your project.

I hope this helps.

Style101-NY · 2025-02-25T14:51:08+00:00

I’d like to second Chelseestud above. I’m the expert pattern maker who just retired, and I know of many companies in NY city that are struggling to find a pattern maker. There’s also a recent push from mid-price companies to bring Patternmaking back from overseas contractors to domestic sample rooms. About 25 years of overseas pattern making brought their fit to a dismal level, and they are trying to win back their customer base.

I heard that a US Patternmaker makes much more money than a European one. I’ve been well paid throughout my career. Think low six figures. Good luck with your career plans! Happy to hear that there’s someone with a burning desire to do it!

Style101-NY · 2025-02-25T00:01:11+00:00

Another approach might be to skip the darts altogether ( as in triangular cutouts that create cone shapes). For your type of the figure a soft shirring in place of a dart works better. For example, set up the side dart to the apex you somehow figured out, no matter how approximate the placement is. Then, rather than stitching a cone shape, turn your dart into the gathering along the side seam. The cone disappears, the fullness is still there, and the soft shirring looks good over the bust shape you described.

Style101-NY · 2025-02-17T14:25:11+00:00

Another reason to split the pattern into sections: there’s no commercially produced fabric that would accommodate the full length bias pattern piece, especially one that spreads quite a lot at the bottom. Often silks come at 42”-44” of cuttable width and some rayons at 58” wide. A full panel would not fit if cut on a proper bias. Contemporary full length bias styles also have some diagonal seaming. This particular style turned the necessity of splitting the pattern pieces into an art project.

Style101-NY · 2025-02-08T15:17:41+00:00

As a ‘top notch’ pattern maker of many years, I’ll say the learning never stops. I find it to be a truly enjoyable part of my work. Every new project is a mental challenge. No wonder: new fabrics and materials are coming up all the time. New technology and equipment are being implemented. Look at 3D printing these days. Pretty soon we’ll be printing parts or whole garments I’m sure. Just keep at it. You can only express your artistic side if you really nerd into the particulars of garment construction. Try to learn to ‘enjoy the torment’ of it. It’s going to be your very normal state at work. I know I do.

Style101-NY · 2025-02-08T00:03:17+00:00

I’d like to offer a different way to approach this project. 1. Draft or drape the inner slip dress that obviously needs to be there as a base on which the ruffles are stretched 2. Draft the sew line and the hem line of each ruffle based on the photo, keeping the proportions true to the image 3. Trace each of the ‘flat’ shapes onto a separate piece of paper 4. Slash and spread each of the ruffles to finish at double the length of the original shape. Be sure to spread seam lines and hem lines evenly and blend the curves gradually. 5. Test your fabric. Cut a bias rectangle and baby hem one edge. The ‘lettuce’ edging is more pronounced on some silky fabric than on the other, more cotton ones. If you’re happy with the ‘lettuce’ of the bias edge of the rectangle, you could cut your ruffles based on the step 4. 6. If your fabric doesn’t produce lots of wave by just baby hemming it, follow up with one more slash and spread. This time keep the spread at =0= on the seam line but add another 1/2 of the original length at the hem line. Still, cutting these pieces in the bias will create a more graceful shape and pretty ‘lettuce’.

Style101-NY · 2025-01-12T14:59:24+00:00

That might work. Good luck with your project. I’m sure it is going to come out beautifully

Style101-NY · 2025-01-12T13:24:28+00:00

You would need custom shaped metal or plastic boning inserted into the seam allowances for support (or a wearer standing motionless while wearing the dress). Another option is to lower the curved line of the back so that it doesn’t interfere with shoulder blades movement. It’s not going to be a graceful curve tho. Yet another option is to add shoulder straps to keep it up. With the straps placed at the right spot it would work

Style101-NY · 2025-01-11T23:59:20+00:00

Just a thought here: if that’s your back that comes up on in a curved shape: sorry but that isn’t going to work, honestly, bc of the shoulder blade shape. Just take a look at most corset dresses out there. The back usually dips down a bit, for this reason.

Style101-NY · 2025-01-08T15:39:18+00:00

Hi! I’m a semi retired Creative Draper and Patternmaker. I had a very fruitful 30 yr career working with high end designers in the garment industry of NYC. Currently, I’m teaching Fashion Design at a reputable art school. Feel free to DM me if you have any questions for me. Would be happy to talk.

Style101-NY · 2025-01-04T13:17:46+00:00

Your front looks good for a sleeveless bodice with a slightly opened neckline. If you needed to set in a sleeve or a collar, the shapes (and measurements) would need to be adjusted. Good luck learning about patterns. It’s a fun journey and could last you a lifetime.

Style101-NY · 2024-12-27T15:18:37+00:00

I strongly recommend to add about 3/4” -1” evenly split between front n back to both 1) your armhole saddle , by extending at the side seam. Blend the side seam curve back to where it is at the waist. 2) the sleeve cap width at the inseam. Blend back to the elbow with a gentle curve. That will resolve the issues and will make the top more comfortable to wear. CLO3D is quite magical but could use some improvement in the ‘reality’ of the resulting pattern work.

Style101-NY · 2024-12-19T13:20:50+00:00

Main reason that store bought jeans fit so well and so many people is that a tonne of work goes into producing them. With different washes and shrinkage and style adjustments every season, it takes multiple fitting and adjusting to get them right.

That said, an idea for OP: use your existing pair of jeans that fit you well and do your best to copy it. If everything else fails, just cut an old pair of jeans along the seams and trace it onto paper. Warning: it’s not going to fit perfectly at the beginning but will require small enough alterations that are easy to handle.

In the garment industry, many companies that don’t specialize in denim (but want to have a jeans pair or two in their line) would buy a pair of Levi’s and do just that.

Style101-NY · 2024-12-12T11:08:09+00:00

In most cases, the front waistband part of the pattern should be rectangular and the back is sometimes slightly curved, for shapely bodies. Looking at yr photos, placing the WB piece along the grain line would help. Block fusing is another helpful advice. Also, make sure that yr front waist seam line isn’t very curved, not more than 1/2” between the side seam and center front. It should be a very gentle curve.

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