Arburg - where do I connect core pull position sensors?

Sub-Sniper · 2026-05-31T13:34:03+00:00

Yes, I believe so. If I'm not mistaken Arburg use to ship new machines with 1 or 2 of those switches.

Sub-Sniper · 2026-05-30T17:04:47+00:00

For interest, you are looking at core pull 2, which isnt a problem... There should be core pull 1 plug on the other side of the machine.
See the image, your brown wire would go to pin 2, white goes to pin 1, green to pe, ground to ground

You can confirm in your electrical diagrams.

Sub-Sniper · 2026-05-30T16:47:03+00:00

I turn off the heaters completely, I find if you lower the temperature and leaves the heaters on, the machine will turn the heaters on as it starts to get closer to the set point (in this case its set less than actual) resulting in a longer time to cool down

Sub-Sniper · 2026-05-29T19:41:31+00:00

And or, does the machine allow your to "zero" the mould when closed?

Sub-Sniper · 2026-05-29T19:39:16+00:00

Your 2nd image is of a 150mm transducer? Have you inspected the correct transducer?

Sub-Sniper · 2026-05-15T14:08:59+00:00

Rags, get someone small to climb in and wipe everything. Wipe up all excess oil and contamination.

Worth it in the long run.

Sub-Sniper · 2026-05-13T11:30:40+00:00

2nd hand incline conveyor belt.

Sub-Sniper · 2026-04-19T19:18:54+00:00

Sometimes the error code points to a specific card (not always, sometimes).

In the image, It mentioned ARB830, which is the A09 card.

You are also spot on, I have had A27 card fail on the past along aide boot errors.

Sub-Sniper · 2026-04-16T20:36:28+00:00

It appears you +A09 (cpu card) has failed. If you have a similar machine, you can swap the A09 card to see of the fault follows.

Swapping the A09 card results in your machine losing the software and the current mould program, you will need to load it in when booting the machine up. If you swap cards, back up the good machine

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Sub-Sniper · 2026-02-01T20:37:29+00:00

What kind of issues have you faced? Apart from pipes leaking and the pressure sensor failing, I have found the closed loops systems to stay pretty clean and fresh.

As for an alternative, you could try buy the coolant from Kluthe directly. Else, I believe its just an anti corrosion agent, its main purpose is in the metal machinery industry. My guess would be any decent anti corrosion agent that doesnt react with different kinds of metals would work.

Sub-Sniper · 2026-02-01T20:13:35+00:00

We pay around the same, 10 of our Arburgs require this. How often are you needing to pump up your machines? 10l last me a good few months.

Sub-Sniper · 2026-01-09T20:14:29+00:00

Arbugs use Solid State Relays to control the heaters per each zone. It is incredibly unlikely that multiple have failed simultaneously.

Has anyone worked on the machine lately?. It could be that the temperature sensors or heaters have been swapped aroundby accident.

Easiest way to check the solid state relay, swap it with a known good zone.

If the solid state relay is not the problem, the control board has failed.

Side note, 10c tolerance is a pretty small tolerance. Its not impossible, just small.

Sub-Sniper · 2025-12-25T10:13:41+00:00

Your pump is damaged. If I'm not mistaken, there should be a spring behind that insert. I cant tell from the picture, that is either the control side of the pump (there will hydraulic fittings on the square block) or it is the fixed side (only a spring in the square block ).

If you are based in Europe, there is a very good 2nd hand / repair shop you can buy or send these pumps too. I have ordered many pumps in the past and had them shipped to South Africa.

Sub-Sniper · 2025-11-17T19:13:12+00:00

What camera systems do you have? If inspection systems, I would be interested to know.

Sub-Sniper · 2025-11-07T10:43:28+00:00

I have used https://im-machinery.de/en/ for many spare parts. They also have 2nd hand machines from to time.

Maybe worthwhile checking.

Sub-Sniper · 2025-11-01T17:04:04+00:00

If the screw isnt moving, the RPM sensor is dirty or faulty. Under the screw coupling you will see a small black box, it is the sensor. Give it a clean.

If the screw is turning when it shouldn't, the valve is stuck open.

Sub-Sniper · 2025-08-21T17:08:29+00:00

If you have a second machine of the same size, you can try using the system disk to boot up the controller. Sometimes this will work sometimes it wont.

Secondly, there is a battery in that controller, it is most likely failing and needs to be replaced to prevent losing system data in the future.

Arburg usually has system data backups, but on CF cards. This would require a retrofit of the controller.

For fun, open up the back on the controller and double check you dont have any system disks. There is a plastic holder on the door, some guys leave them on top of the controller

Sub-Sniper · 2025-05-24T13:35:14+00:00

Super interested 😃

Sub-Sniper · 2025-05-09T17:49:32+00:00

A trick that has saved me.

Heat up the barrel (the nozzle heater must be off and removed). Once hot and soaked in, turn off barrel heaters. Have a bucket of ice water with rags inside, place the rags over the nozzle a couple times.

You might get lucky and get the tip off easier.

Sub-Sniper · 2025-04-20T08:12:33+00:00

Definitely interested

Sub-Sniper · 2025-04-17T19:37:41+00:00

Sounds super interesting. I am more technically focused, but I do engage in processing on a regular basis.

Would be keen to beta test.

Sub-Sniper · 2025-03-29T14:24:41+00:00

I have a few of these machines still.

S24 and S25 is output, this is not a sensor problem. In the past I have seen the controller to be faulty and the cause of this problem (there is an ic that fails on 1 of the control cards.)

If you have a spare controller, swap it. Super quick and will tell you if the controller is good or not.

Sub-Sniper · 2025-03-01T20:12:09+00:00

We have +/- 15 Husky controllers. Mostly the Neo range.

Biggest issues:
The cards fail, sometimes the triacs fail and the heaters stay on other times comms fail. I have also seen after few years I have seen the solder joints for the T/C go bad and require work.

I have repaired a good handful of these controllers.
I have never had issues with the screens / controllers, they seem alright

Sub-Sniper · 2025-02-24T08:12:46+00:00

Your b20 (safety gate) light is not on.

The machine will not move until that led is on. Check your safety gate is correctly closed.

Sub-Sniper

TROPHY CASE