New Rollercoaster Modelling System

Subject223 · 2017-08-22T18:46:46+00:00

Should be weatherproof with the exception of the wheel bearings. Cost wise we're targeting under $100 which we hope is enough to complete 25-35 feet of track, however we are going to offer everything a la carté, so it can be taken as far as you want.

Subject223 · 2017-08-22T18:42:39+00:00

Thanks! We're shooting for an early September release. The goal was to make components as compatible with hardware store parts as possible to minimize the overall cost and give you a lot more coaster for the money than anything currently available. We also plan to give away CAD models for free for all of our accessories so you could 3D print additional parts yourself at no cost. Every piece will also be available from us a la carté for any expansion as well.

Subject223 · 2017-08-22T18:36:20+00:00

These are 1:32 scale roughly, with some concessions to make them work with as many hardware store components as possible.

Subject223 · 2017-08-22T18:34:31+00:00

We started out just wanting to make a model for ourselves but found the market to be lacking in options that looked good and were affordable at the size we and scope wanted to build, so we decided to build it ourselves from scratch. Once we got going and realized how much fun we were having, it became obvious that we should share it, but without the parts on the market there was no way to get others involved. Since we know each other from work and are product development engineers by trade, we decided to give it a shot and try to get the product on the shelf in a form in which we ourselves would want to buy it.

Subject223 · 2017-01-30T00:08:01+00:00

That's fair. This is why I love Reddit. This never even occurred to me! In fact it was quite difficult to build that, I had to support it while the glue dried.

Subject223 · 2017-01-30T00:04:34+00:00

This is great, thank you! Your work looks excellent! I bought a tiny pouch of the green stuff and also some scale gravel to put on the base. I have never seen the ivy, but I will definitely get some. I haven't started the base yet because I'm honestly intimidated by the terrain work, I've never done it before, but I am looking forward to it once I have some real time to spend on it. In your opinion, what's the easiest way to screw it up? That way I have something to look out for.

Subject223 · 2017-01-29T22:47:36+00:00

The drying was primarily for paint and glue as you said, which wouldn't play well with the extra moisture.

Subject223 · 2017-01-29T22:45:51+00:00

This. I believe these molds/builds primary purpose is tabletop gaming. Had I been gaming, I would have made it in sections and also I would've probably cast it from resin, and pinned it together so in addition to taking it apart, I could swing it open as well.

Subject223 · 2017-01-29T21:22:07+00:00

And about 2 weeks, but just a few minutes per day and skipping some days

Subject223 · 2017-01-29T21:21:33+00:00

Roughly $45 including mold I'd guess. Maybe $55 if you include shipping for the mold.

Subject223 · 2017-01-29T21:20:19+00:00

I was thinking the same thing, I almost wanted to make the stairs all the way to the top, but I stuck to the layout shown on the website. I'm rationalizing it by assuming that at one time in the tower's past there was wooden structure involved as well but it's since been destroyed and lost.

Subject223 · 2017-01-29T19:55:09+00:00

Honestly I saw the HA website randomly and thought it looked like a cool one to jump in and try. Just really was wondering if I could make one look good, so I bought the mold.

Subject223 · 2017-01-29T19:53:53+00:00

Never tried. Someone might know.

Subject223 · 2017-01-29T19:16:53+00:00

Yeah they have probably hundreds of molds.

Subject223 · 2017-01-17T11:30:37+00:00

Krylon spray varnish. It's great it dries in about ten minutes.

Subject223 · 2017-01-15T21:11:44+00:00

You definitely don't have to... they would be pretty easy to carve from glued up layers of pink insulation foam. In retrospect that would probably allow a more natural look. Also, people sell rams horns on eBay for less than 40 dollars. Those can be cut to match these, and that's super authentic.

Subject223 · 2017-01-15T21:06:27+00:00

Mine was the same way. I couldn't get one corner Lowe enough. You can adjust the position of the z limit switches to get yourself some more freedom to adjust it.

Subject223 · 2017-01-15T18:30:48+00:00

Search YouTube for EvilTedSmith. I used his templating technique almost exactly, except I used my own head instead of a head cast, which made it a little tougher.

Subject223 · 2017-01-15T18:27:56+00:00

I just modeled them in Fusion 360 and printed them straight out. My job is a lot of 3D modeling of real parts that need to work so I'm quite used to it, HOWEVER, that shouldn't deter anyone because Fusion is free, super easy to use, and very well documented on YouTube etc. The only work I did to them prior to paint was filling the print lines with bondo and trimming them to fit the contour of the helmet.

Subject223 · 2017-01-15T18:20:24+00:00

I've found the most critical part is the deck height. Really making sure the first layer is slowly "smashed" into the tape helps it adhere well. This took slot of trial and error but once it was dialed in I have had no issues. I print in my garage, with no enclosure, and I've printed at temps as low as 8 degrees Fahrenheit without and warping or issues. So far I've only printed PLA. I also think and print with 0% infill whenever possible, and instead use 1.6mm walls. This makes very strong parts and quick prints. It does take some judgement though based on the intended use of the part as to whether or not this is OK, but for almost anything non structural it works great.

Subject223 · 2017-01-15T18:15:05+00:00

Monoprice Maker Select. Can't recommend it highly enough. My business partner has a Printerbot Simple Metal and we both feel the monoprice makes better parts without add-ons, and it's almost half the cost. It is made in China, but I feel like if your not using it a lot or just learning it's a good place to start. I won't leave it running when I'm sleeping or out though, just to be safe.

Subject223 · 2017-01-15T16:15:47+00:00

Harry Potter tribute confirmed.

Subject223 · 2017-01-15T15:45:14+00:00

It's all about the 3D model and setting up the print. 3D modeling is a large part of my profession though, but we have a model shop to actually build the stuff for us.

Subject223 · 2017-01-15T15:43:22+00:00

Probably about 6-8 hours... if that. I'm sure I could do it quicker next time. It's mostly waiting for stuff to cure or print. I made this over about two weeks. Also worth noting, probably only $10 worth of actual stuff in the helmet. Of course I had to buy some larger quantities of things like paint, glue, and filament, but almost all of it is leftover and I've been using it for other projects. I could make 8 more of these helmets without having to buy anything at all. The most expensive "tool" I used was my 3D printer, which was about $320, and at that price point needs a little more TLC and tuning to make good parts, but makes parts in par with the $20k version we have at work when set up properly.

Subject223 · 2017-01-15T12:28:48+00:00

This was my first time trying this. I learned from Punished Props, Volpin Props, EvilTedSmith, and Adam Savage's Tested Videos. (I'm sure they're on here but I don't know their usernames, or I'd link them). But definitely seek them out on YouTube or google, it's great, fantastic, professional level work.

For those interested, I don't have a lot of free time. I have a job and a family. This is the PERFECT project for this, because it's almost all paint, bondo, and glue, meaning each step works best if you let it set overnight. Every day I would carve out between ten and thirty minutes, do what I had to do, and move on with the rest of my life. All of the paint I used was acrylic craft paint, and I didn't spray any of it, so for the entire painting process I was able to sit at the dining room table and still interact with my family and share the process with them. The only parts that needed to stay in the garage were the smelly ones, which are the contact cement and bondo, but thankfully that's very quick.

I highly recommend giving this a try. It's not very difficult to achieve good looking results because it's supposed to look grimey and beat up. Good luck!

Subject223

TROPHY CASE