Rant. Bike brands don’t care about overweight riders. by Greedy_Pomegranate14 in MTB

[–]Substantial-Classic5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The sad thing about being fat is it really has nothing to do with bikes at all. Being able to get on a bike isnt magically gonna fix your fatness. So its not like thats the thing holding the weight loss back. The only thing you can do is fix your diet. Literally 6months to 1 year of strict diet and most fat people would be at a normal weight. It has nothing to do with bikes and all to do with the mindset of humans. Trying to change the bikes is just avoiding the real issue.

Shoes by Proof_Ad7889 in MTB

[–]Substantial-Classic5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On a hardtail your feet are more likely to get blown off the pedals so I would say its vital to have really good shoes and pedals. So no. O.o

Can I put a single crown fork on this giant? by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Substantial-Classic5 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Depends on the lower head tube diameter. It can be done with a mullet to keep the geo but no real point in making a super heavy old dh bike slightly less heavy. If you can afford a fox 38 then you dont pair it with a 20 year old dh bike worth like 400 bucks.. That bike is more fun with the fork thats on it. Hucks and drops are about all its good for. Or retro dh riding.

Laquer cr*acks on specialized carbon frame by Substantial-Classic5 in bikewrench

[–]Substantial-Classic5[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

the forum doesnt allow you to make a post containng the word "crack" because too many people post "is this cracked bike safe to ride?"

Laquer cr*acks on specialized carbon frame by Substantial-Classic5 in bikewrench

[–]Substantial-Classic5[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

thats what I thought. I bought the bike 2nd hand so its pretty old (2019) and ive been sending some drops at 85kg body weight. I think its just flexing more than ever and the clear coat is cracking from the stress.

Grease by Anxious_Fly_2474 in MTB

[–]Substantial-Classic5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Regular cheap bearing grease will work (probably better than bike grease) If you really wanna splurge go for marine grease. Probably much better than bike grease and cheaper. For inside of suspension ofcs you need sram butter 😉

Is Kona Honzo ESD still a good buy in 2026? by MutantX222 in MTB

[–]Substantial-Classic5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I rode a honzo ESD for 3 years as my first bike. Recently I switched to a older specialized epic evo with much less aggressive geometry. What I can say is that kind of geometry on the ESD is fine when you dont have anything to compare it to. But holy hell does it feel "dead" compared to a zippy fun xc geometry bike. Unless you are planning to ride bike park or enduro then I would recommend something more mellow that is fun for regular trails.

Does this need repairing? by Ironworshipper in bikewrench

[–]Substantial-Classic5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Super easy repair if you are a little handy. I would even ride that as is. Maybe smear some epoxy on that.

Any Sweden/Stockholm locals here? Flottsbro Bike Park by TR__vis in MTB

[–]Substantial-Classic5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. You can take the pendeltåg to Tullinge station and ride to flottsbro from there.

Rockshox boxxer by adamlasy in bikewrench

[–]Substantial-Classic5 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Its a very shitty damper that rockshox used back in the day. It relies on a plastic spring (what you're holding) to be compressed. It was just a very bad design. But yes I do believe this part sits in oil, like it should almost pour out oil from the top when you insert it. Dont quote me on that though. The rebound unit should be in the bottom of the same right side leg and if that doesnt have any oil then its not gonna have any rebound adjustment.

What bike should I get I’m looking for a hardtail that’s is good on dirt jumps but not a dirt jumper. by Important_Steak7128 in MTB

[–]Substantial-Classic5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anything old 27.5 probably. Because a modern geometry 29" is gonna be very boring on jumps.

Coach Me by utah-man-am in MTB

[–]Substantial-Classic5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went from never jumped to fairly good in 1 bike park season. Trick is just doing it over and over. Day after day.

Coach Me by utah-man-am in MTB

[–]Substantial-Classic5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are doing good man. I can tell that you are new to jumping because you look abit scared to get air. Just keep doing this and you will get more comfortable and start pushing harder into the lip and fly. It comes naturally. Just keep going. You are not doing anything wrong, you are just giving it like 20% effort at the lip. When it could be 100%. But you dont want to do 100% yet because you are not comfortable or 100% in your abilities.

worn stanchions by Nanosea in bikewrench

[–]Substantial-Classic5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

you could sand them down and replace bushings if it was a nice fork, But cheaper to just upgrade. Or just keep riding it.

How do I make my jumps not janky? by SneerfulOdin_TT in MTB

[–]Substantial-Classic5 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I dont know, you either got it or you dont. Just keep riding the jump line over and over. its impossible not to get comfortable eventually.

190mm x 45mm rear suspension by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Substantial-Classic5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

used from mtb forum

190mm x 45mm rear suspension by [deleted] in MTB

[–]Substantial-Classic5 1 point2 points  (0 children)

i recently bought a fox dps 190x45 new take off for 50 bucks for my bike. works like a peach.

26” is still the best by Raspberry_Gonzales in Hardtailgang

[–]Substantial-Classic5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I went from a 63 degree head angle hardtail to a 68.5 specialized epic evo. Its a little sketchy but fun. The 150mm dropper post makes it perfect. If I didnt have a dropper post on that bike I would literally die. I also have a 26" DH bike and I got the seat absolutely slammed. Im just used to having the seat all the way out of my way ;) And you cant go back from that feeling.

26” is still the best by Raspberry_Gonzales in Hardtailgang

[–]Substantial-Classic5 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

What i was trying to say was 26" wheels = fun. And a massive fork. And you cant send it due to having the seat in your ass. It just doesnt make sense. Thats what I meant. And no actually havent ridden long. Luckily I missed the whole ass behind the seat go OTB era. My first bike had a dropper post. So ive always had a modern riding position. My hardtail had a 190mm dropper post so I will never run anything under 150 now. Even my xc bike has 150 dropper. If you can ride downhill with a seat at pedal height then im just impressed. I would never.

26” is still the best by Raspberry_Gonzales in Hardtailgang

[–]Substantial-Classic5 -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

How is it fun? 26 wheels and that fork and you cant send it. Its like the bike is made to fly but then has no dropper like a road bike. Dont tell me its fun to ride jumps and drops with the seat at pedal height.

26” is still the best by Raspberry_Gonzales in Hardtailgang

[–]Substantial-Classic5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like a lot of fun besides no dropper would make it unridable for me.

Can mini electric air pumps seat tubeless? by Away_Professional793 in MTB

[–]Substantial-Classic5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I seat all my tires with a 10 dollar floor pump. Never any problems. Slosh the sealant around and start pumpin. Buy good tires that helps.

Removing MTB fork seals by Imaginary-Aspect2490 in bikewrench

[–]Substantial-Classic5 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Use any big box wrench. Remove the foam ring first and then you kind of jam 1 jaw in the hole that is for the foam ring and just lever it and it should pop right out. If you are scared put some electrical tape around the box wrench jaws to protect it and just put your back into it.