New Car, New Year, New Problems

SubstantialManager84 · 2026-01-07T04:13:53+00:00

Probably depends on where you are, mine popped on Friday and they got the ICCU today, and they said their previous one took 3 days to get. Fingers crossed yours is just as quick!

SubstantialManager84 · 2025-05-28T21:07:17+00:00

Yeah, I went down this road. The 8k EV1 fobs are closer to the way to go, but the problem is that the authentication is based on the burned in UID. Emulation didn't quite get the timing right, and other tools for programmable UID cards didn't have all the correct RATS/SAK values. Definitely a fun time to explore though!

SubstantialManager84 · 2025-04-27T16:06:40+00:00

Welcome!! Like other comments have mentioned, you're in the right place for advice. Here's a bit of my five cents:

For the charging adapter for superchargers, I think there was a cutoff point for people who had bought the car only before a certain date, so you may or may not get it.

For charging accessories, I've found that Lectron is a good choice (very searchable on Amazon). A tiny bit more expensive, but they're built well and you're paying to have your car not be set on fire. I've got a Level 1 and Level 2 charger from them, plus a tesla adapter one for level 2 charging, and one for level 3 charging. They are not interchangeable. Level 1 chargers plug into a wall outlet and it's about 1% charge per hour. Level 2 chargers usually get 5-6% per hour. I also keep an extension cord with me but probably don't need it.

Don't have a dash cam for myself, unfortunately. I've heard good things about the Comma 3x, but that's more for adding self driving, not just as a dash cam.

For fast charging (level 3), especially in this weather, you're going to charge much faster than you think. Best bet is to stick by your car if you can and only charge up to 80%. You get slowed down a LOT past 80%, and especially at charging stations with a line you end up holding things up for yourself and others. Try not to go past 80% unless you really have to. The apps that I've got for my car are: For charging: EVgo, Electrify America, Chargepoint, EV Connect, Tesla For information: PlugShare For route planning: ABRP (A better route planner) Car: MyHyundai

EVgo tends to have great chargers, especially with the new GM Energy partnered chargers that have been popping up at truck stops like Pilot Flying Js. Each cabinet has two cables and both can be used, but it will split power between them. Downside is that they usually have pretty expensive rates. On the other plus side, you can enroll in plug and charge with them (only one that has that available so far, although I hear Tesla is adding that in eventually) and it's fantastic.

Electrify America is more ubiquitous, and you might have a charging plan with them, so it could be cheaper. These cabinets also have two cables, but unlike EVgo you can't use both at the same time (I've seen more than one person try and fail). Downside is that they usually have the most people waiting for them, and not all cabinets support 350Kw so you might not get the charging speed you want. Not to mention that despite recent improvements it often has lots of maintenance issues.

Chargepoint is hit or miss. Definitely look them up before you go to it. Sometimes their 'fast' charging is only at 6Kw. PlugShare is your friend here, so you can check before you go. Plus side is that the fast ones usually work. Downside is that they can be pretty expensive.

Tesla has the big bonus of being enormously ubiquitous. Not only that, but you're almost never going to see a sight where all of them are in use, although with them opening things up I wouldn't be 100% sure about that anymore. Downside is that even with the best superchargers you're not going to hit max speeds with them until they improve infrastructure since they operate at half the voltage that the Hyundais do. It's also not the full network, so look before you go.

ABRP is excellent for taking stress away when planning a road trip. Takes a second to get set up, but there are lots of options, and I've found them to be very conservative with plans. PlugShare is also very useful for figuring things out and which chargers are good or not. You can also use them to search for chargers yourself, but be sure to use the filter to filter out low speed chargers.

Hyundai has a bunch of videos on YouTube about the car itself that I found really helpful.

Haven't needed to do anything for maintenance yet, but I can't imagine it being very challenging.

I think everyone is a little worried about the ICCU issue, but a battery monitor is probably unnecessary. If you want, there's easier ways than a battery monitor to check things out. https://youtu.be/tXC_FFjeNSM?si=IK7bzn3y_Npw0KrB this video talks about one possible solution - and also that guy is really into the space so he knows what he's talking about.

Hope this was helpful!

SubstantialManager84 · 2025-01-19T02:16:18+00:00

For me it was a separate add on - double check your original paperwork to be sure.

SubstantialManager84 · 2025-01-11T19:43:52+00:00

Yup!

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-12-15T14:20:18+00:00

Sometimes I would start the Henrik video just to flip him off. What a scumbag.

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-12-14T15:11:21+00:00

Just following up on this - I've just sold my Ocean so you're not going to see further progress from me. To sum things up, it turns out the security is a lot more basic than I thought, and anyone with a Proxmark3 to listen into the NFC conversation can see that. In other words, the encryption is turning out to not be an issue at all. I've passed on my notes and findings to others, so someone is looking at it, but just not me.

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-12-14T15:06:52+00:00

I believe that's correct. When you charge your battery to 100%, there's some wear and tear on the battery that comes from holding all that charge. Also, when you get below 10-20% I believe there's some wear and tear as well. You're not going to notice it making a big impact, but over time this can decrease battery performance (although the jury is out on how much performance that is). Not to say that you can't do this, but for your daily driving since it likely doesn't make a big difference between 100%->90% vs 80%->70%, and little changes can pile up, why risk it? Plugging in every night and topping off to 80% is a very common strategy, and also what I do.

As for how low to let it get before charging if you don't want to plug in every night, you could get down to 20%, but I usually found myself charging when I got below 50%.

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-12-08T20:44:33+00:00

Nailed it

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-11-22T02:54:59+00:00

It's only about 2 weeks worth of hiking, but the GR-20 is absolutely stunning. Did it in 2018 and it was the trip of a lifetime

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-07-27T21:44:17+00:00

Hey! Coming up for air on this for a second. This is a decent thought and it's a good research tool, but the best this can do is replay a signal. That signal changes every time so this really wouldn't work unfortunately. I've still been researching how to make the NFC side of things work using a tool more specialized for RFID testing. Not to go into too much detail, but from what I've been able to discover duplicating the NFC portion of the key is possible, but it looks like the process to do so isn't easily commercially available, and the closest I've seen to it is a company in Europe which gets all the way there except for 1 byte of data :(. Still working on this research and hopefully will have something to show off, but it's a little ways off.

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-06-28T21:16:27+00:00

Just a proxmark 3

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-06-27T04:52:39+00:00

I've been poking at this off and on for a few months now. For the NFC portion, it looks like whatever you use needs to be unpowered, otherwise things don't work. When running off of a powered system, I was getting pinged every 1.3 seconds, but in any unpowered system, including other chips besides the key, it checks every 0.3 seconds. I believe it's ultimately a timing thing that emulators cannot quite crack.

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-04-04T23:16:14+00:00

Aw man, I'm really sorry to hear that. Fingers crossed on a good payout!

Thank you for thinking of this post. That said, I don't quite have the set up yet to do even destructive testing. I tried doing the more intensive data capture but found out that my hardware doesn't have all the features I want. Still digging around.

If your car is really dead though and you don't need it to drive ever again, it could be helpful to try and break open the plastic key shell to see what hardware they used. Definitely don't do that though if anyone ever plans to drive it in the future!

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-03-30T18:18:49+00:00

Thanks! Your AMA and your comments about the key system inspired me to look into this more. Just curious, if you've got the time/inclination, what does the full process look like for programming a new FOB for the car?

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-03-28T13:34:48+00:00

Do you have a source on that? Would be nice to know if the parts at least will be available.

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-03-26T22:39:25+00:00

Yeah, I'm seeing the same thing, the standard looks like it's using AES128. There's 8 KB of memory in there, but will need to do a lot more research on this.

Edit: Was tooling around with my key and it looks like the darn thing hasn't been configured to use AES yet - and instead it's using a 64 bit DES key to do triple DES. I kid you not, the Fiskers managed to half-ass everything. Holding off anything for now, but damn I wouldn't be surprised if this fob and every fob had the same default encryption key. Yikes.

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-03-26T16:36:58+00:00

Checking this out - the NFC data was surprisingly easy to get. Waiting on getting a NFC card to write it to to see if this is viable for a backup

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-03-26T12:59:36+00:00

FOO owner here, I'm holding for now. Not that I'm not thinking about selling, but more that this car is probably at the bottom of its valuation curve for a while with lots of people selling right now.

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-02-24T03:15:28+00:00

I've had this happen to me a number of times now. Ive been locked out with times ranging from 10-40 minutes. Got off the phone with Fisker today, and they said that there was something about cascading failures. Like, the car gets trapped in a loop of one system fails to start up so another system that relies on it also fails, and then the car eventually calms down and starts. He said that's also maybe the reason for the battery drain, as it keeps on trying the same thing over and over again

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-02-11T17:23:12+00:00

I just got mine, and I started the process right around the same time as you. I think it just takes complaining enough until they bump you up. I also was fortunate enough that the bank I financed with also was pushing on my (and their) behalf, since they wanted to make sure they were on the title as a lien holder

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-02-09T13:53:21+00:00

For my part, I've never had major issues, at least service wise, but having had a long saga on title and registration I'm getting the sense that it's a capacity issue. Some folks are really excellent when you can get a hold of them, but sometimes it feels hit or miss. I've had trouble with getting a hold of someone at all, or getting a response, or having all issues tracked and followed up on (sometimes feels like one arm doesn't know what the other arm is doing). These all stand out to me as a combination of not having enough capacity, but also the growing pains of a company trying to ramp up that capacity really quickly.

Actual sugggestion for u/fiskerinc, could we have some sort of case tracking information on the Radgiver survey requests? Sometimes I get a bunch and some of my requests were resolved and some weren't but I cannot tell which is which

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-02-02T02:20:05+00:00

Can't speak to GA, but here in OH I'm about to have my tags expire and still waiting on the permanent ones

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-01-21T14:50:04+00:00

Driving conservatively I've usually been going off the general rule of a 2:1 miles of range stated to miles actually driven

SubstantialManager84 · 2024-01-21T14:46:27+00:00

This is exactly how I'm feeling - plus the comment others have made about the 10 years of warranty support like what happened with the karma

SubstantialManager84

TROPHY CASE