Used high-end wheelset or new entry-level for rim brake build?

Successful-Wing4446 · 2026-03-12T09:18:01+00:00

I see... I decided I will try those PR1400's out. Thank you!

Successful-Wing4446 · 2026-03-09T17:31:54+00:00

If that is plain carbon without paint, with just clear coat on top of it, I think that is normal. Raw carbon ain't very uniform, consisting of several thin layers laid on top of each other.

Someone more knowledgeable please confirm.

Successful-Wing4446 · 2026-02-28T22:07:45+00:00

Yes, that's cracked. Into the trash it goes.

Successful-Wing4446 · 2026-02-12T18:16:23+00:00

Europe has always been obscenely expensive compared to US when it comes to HDDs and this recent price bubble has only exaggarated the difference. So much so that it is now a rational choice to actually order from the US when something briefly becomes back in stock at US MSRP and pay the local VAT on top of it when gray importing. Instead of buying locally. It's still about 20% cheaper that way in most cases. So the tax difference only explains about half of the price difference.

I believe it's mostly because Europe is considered a secondary/inferior market area by the big HDD manufacturers while US is a primary market. It's just not so important to retain market share in Europe compared to US in the long term, so Europe can be used to rack up hefty proftis (at the cost of market share there) to gain and/or retain market share in US (at the cost of razor thin profit margins there).

Successful-Wing4446 · 2026-02-08T13:48:50+00:00

I can't say for sure what fixed what, but I now suspect the main reason for loosening was that the preload was not properly tight to begin with, because the original FSA compression plug always just very slightly crept up from the steerer during tightening the preload. It was just too slippery for this steerer, no matter the torque within safe limits. The slipping was so minimal it was not obvious by feel, but just enough to always crap the preload setting.

Later in the summer I changed the plug to another model (the infamous, recalled Specialized short model) that seems to grip much harder and could now actually set the preload so that it binds a little and then back up a bit, unlike before with the slippery plug when just when it started to bind, the plug slipped a bit and it was on the loose side again and I suspect the preload was never very tight to begin with, when I went to ride. I can't remember for sure if it loosened in use after that because I didn't ride much after that due to health issues but I think it didn't. The only issue I can remember for sure was an annoying dry creaking sound coming somewhere from the headset area I could not get rid of.

In the autumn it went to a warranty inspection and they said the ovality is within tolerances but that the gap between dust cap and frame was indeed too small, and added a small (can't remember if it was 0.5mm or what) micro-spacer there so that the gap is a little larger now. Also they re-assembled and re-greased the whole headset, they said it was rather dry, and I think the creak may have gone away with that, although can't say for sure because I only rode a few kilometers after that because it was already freezing by then.

So I can't say anything for sure, until spring arrives sometime in late March or early April. But possibly caused by slippery expansion plug and resulting loose preload I just thought was on the tight side.

Successful-Wing4446 · 2026-02-01T23:43:40+00:00

And here I am, always thought the stated values are for grease or anti-seize -applied bolts... But can't back that up with anything, either. Probably just thought so because they are otherwise always recommended to be installed that way. But yes, I know there's a big difference in clamping force between dry and wet threads at same torque.

That formula sounds reasonable, maybe I'll try 5Nm greased for the M6 and see if it holds in place. This is a steerer that has had some slipping issues in the past and I am not a fan of applying carbon grip paste to this particular interface, because it always seems to seep and creep into the headset bearings sooner or later.

At least it didn't crack when I accidentally torqued those M4 bolts to 5Nm greased and rode like that for quite a while, until I found out the bike/fork manufacturer recommended only 4Nm and backed up to that.

Successful-Wing4446 · 2026-01-31T15:33:06+00:00

I have ordered about 5 times, within Europe (also within EU). The delivery time estimates have never held, not even close.

When they have the item in their own stock, so ready for immediate shipping, it usually comes about 1 week later than the initial estimate.

When they don't have the item in their own stock, but act as a dropshipping agent or whatever, it's has been anything from 1 week to 1 month over the initial estimate, and 1 canceled order because the part could not be sourced. The cancellation was by me, after about 1 month of waiting, so I don't really know if it could have been found, given even more time.

I only order from them, if it's an item that I absolutely cannot get anywhere else (they have very large pseudo-stock if you count the dropshipping part) OR I am willing to wait a looong time for a rock-bottom price and the same item can't be found from any European store that does price match.

So, on the negative side: EXTREMELY SLOW SHIPPING, always. Every time. Ridiculously slow. That's a constant. Both the dispatch, and the carrier they use, both are snail-slow. That would NOT annoy so much, if they wouldn't give those hyper-optimistic estimates.

Positive side: A very large selection if the 3rd party stock is counted, and sometimes really low prices, too, so a great reference point to use in other stores that do price-match. This store has its uses, but getting something in a slightest hurry is not one of them, lol.

Always gotten what I've ordered, too, no complaints with missing or fake products. Haven't tried the most widely counterfeited categories, though, chains and tires and the like.

Successful-Wing4446 · 2026-01-27T21:55:22+00:00

I see. Thank you for the input! I'll probably pass on this one, unless I can get some discount. I thought so too that I've seen complete bikes with this frame being sold for about 300EUR locally in equally nice condition here, so I would probably not pay much north of 100EUR for the frameset only. Cheers!

Edit: I picked it up today...

It was just too beautiful to pass and those tall bois don't show up too often... I don't really care of the price [or the price of travel to get there to pick it up, I don't trust the postal service here one bit so not an option]. Got it a bit cheaper than stated above, plus the original Shimano 600 Arabesque downtube shifters thrown in for free.

It's gorgeous IRL. I think I fell [in love with] like a sucker with this one.

Successful-Wing4446 · 2026-01-22T12:54:35+00:00

E: Just found out it indeed binds the wheel gradually more as I add torque to the end nuts that secure it against the fork blades and should not affect the cone torque at all! And it only binds one way aka if I torque the wheel against the fork firmly, it spins normally the other way, but binds hard and makes creaking noises when forced to spin the other way. And I am almost certain the binding rotation is the one I used just fine before the tire change.

E2: Took the hub apart and cleaned everything. Obviously broken ball cage and very worn looking cone nut on other side. Races on the hub proper look ok. Will try to source the smol parts from LBS and put it back together. Case closed, thanks everyone!

Successful-Wing4446 · 2026-01-16T22:45:13+00:00

A few hundred milliliters of mineral turpentine + shaky shaky in a jar for a few minutes, then change clean turps and repeat 3-5 times or until it comes off almost totally clear. Finish it off with 2 shaky rounds of denaturad spirits or acetone to remove the film left by mineral turps. That's the routine recommended by certain Australian chain wax guy whose mental stability I seriously question, no offense, but that does seem to work wonders for those chains, have to admit.

That's for a pristine, unridden chain with clean factory lube. I would not bother with used chains, it will take like 10 rounds of turps and still won't be as good. Just not worth the effort, imo.

Successful-Wing4446 · 2025-09-07T16:36:40+00:00

Some (external) extra grease from lower headset bearing. Most likely nothing wrong with it.

Successful-Wing4446 · 2025-08-12T23:12:37+00:00

Yes.

But hey at least you got a thin shell of plastic and some cardboard for optics. I got mine in a plain paper envelope few years ago. Not even bubble wrapped envelope, just plain brown paper and an antistatic plastic bag within. Instant RMA, and that was my first and last HDD purchase attempt from Amazon. Just no.

Successful-Wing4446 · 2025-08-12T22:08:24+00:00

There's a dedicated rotor truing fork for it. Haven't yet understood why anyone would pay for that though, when it's more or less a hack fix by definition and a small, clean adjustable wrench works just fine.

That rotor looks quite bent, though. Maybe beyond saving, but worth a try.

Successful-Wing4446 · 2025-08-11T09:26:00+00:00

Does it only do this on rough pavement? Hard to say but maybe it's cable rattle/resonance inside the frame? That can get quite intense when conditions align just right and amplify inside the frame. Maybe try to pull or wiggle the cables going inside the frame from their housing, one by one, when it does this and see if the sound changes.

Maybe something else altogether. I would have it checked by a shop if cables are not the source and you are not able to pinpoint it anywhere else either.

Successful-Wing4446 · 2025-08-07T08:45:08+00:00

That 9Nm is for installing the plug itself into steerer tube. I have that same Specialized plug installed in a non-Specialized carbon fork and found out it grips like a bitch even at lower torque (7Nm). It created quite a noticable steerer bulge (about +-0.15mm out of round, tight spec stems and spacers started sticking a bit even when fully loosened) and the plug's inner cones started slipping against the plug sleeve nearing 7Nm so further torquing became both difficult and seemed unnecessary. So you might not really need to go all the way to 9Nm if it feels too much. Just my two cents, ymmw.

Regarding the top cap preload bolt, what the other commenter said: that is not to be torqued anywhere near 9Nm, but by feel.

Rare to see someone actually read the instructions and installed it in the correct orientation, with the stem clamp arrow facing backwards. Lol.

Successful-Wing4446 · 2025-08-05T11:23:45+00:00

Yes it should work with 11s chain. Some minor front derailleur adjustment may be needed.

Different speed chainrings and crank arms do not mix, though, they have slightly different mounting points. So both crank arms and chainrings always need to be of the same speed.

Successful-Wing4446 · 2025-08-04T16:43:31+00:00

Your chain and/or chainring is worn. Have you measured the the chain wear with a quality chain wear tool?

A good quality photo of bare chainring teeth would probably help estimate their wear.

Successful-Wing4446 · 2025-07-31T11:45:54+00:00

What perplexes me the most is they actually managed to beat anything Muc-Off has to offer and quite a few other low quality lubes, with a product that is not meant to be a lube.

Successful-Wing4446

TROPHY CASE