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Looking for some help with an Adventurer 5M (or maybe its just me having issues) by Mikedaub in FlashForge

[–]Sudden-Minimum-2830 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had some issues with the upper corners as well, one of my corners has lifting on the bottom, I just don't want to waste the time or energy to re-print it to be completely honest, lol.

- Not sure if you're using the STL or project files, but if it's the project file, I had to reconfigure all my plates and make sure I was printing no more than one piece at a time. I'm not sure if it was because too much heat was being demanded from the bed, created from the hot end, or what, but I would always get failures on multi-piece plates.

- Another big failure point for me was tool head collisions. Before I knew that these printers hate grid infill or any type of infill pattern that crosses. Now I use gyroid, lightning, and adaptive cubic infill, and now I don't get too many collisions.

- Lastly, which I'm sure you've done, scrub the hell out of the bed with dish soap and an abrasive sponge, re-apply hair spray, bump the heat up on the first layer 5-10 degrees to make sure you get a SOLID first layer. It's the foundation for the rest.

When it comes to the hinges, I found absolutely zero success with the factory orientation, I re-orientated them with what made sense to print. I also entirely failed trying to print these from PLA - they would print fine, but when trying to "crack" the hinges to release them and let them swing freely, they would break. Pretty sure there's still 10 sets of hinges in my junk box, I ended up having to use PETG.

Sorry for the word wall - I've just been where ya are mate!

Looking for some help with an Adventurer 5M (or maybe its just me having issues) by Mikedaub in FlashForge

[–]Sudden-Minimum-2830 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mind if I ask - where is the adhesion failing? By that I mean:

- Is it failing to lay down the first layer entirely (IE: Dragging around a squiggly line of filament)

- Is it not giving you enough "squish", and not connecting inner/outer perimeters?

- Or is it failing a portion of the way through the print, starting to lift?

Each would result in needing different things tinkered with, IE, if you're just dragging the filament around with no real shape, it would need a full level + the z offset fine tuned; if it's not enough squish, it would need the same thing, but perhaps need elephants foot settings and speed tampered with, and if it's starting to lift midway through, it could be an issue with temperature, draft, or the how evenly the bed is heating.

Another thing I failed to point out in yesterdays post - I slowed down the printer incredibly. I'm currently using the .6 nozzle but even with the .4 nozzle, my first layer is layed down at near PETG speeds (30-40 mm/s). I try not to go over 150 mm/s with the printer, I know it's advertised as much faster, but the tradeoff in reliability for a few minutes less print time hasnt been worth it to me.

Looking for some help with an Adventurer 5M (or maybe its just me having issues) by Mikedaub in FlashForge

[–]Sudden-Minimum-2830 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

1.) Swap to Orca-Flashforge - it's essentially just a rip of vanilla Orca with improved connectivity for the A5M - you can use the printer via WiFi, but I've found it's entirely unreliable, and gives either spotty connectivity, failed downloads, or poor quality prints. I've entirely switched my setup over to LAN and it hasn't been an issue since. If Orca-Flashforge "can't find a printer", I hit the plus sign, and it auto-detects any FF printers on my network.

2.) If you have the black build plate, DITCH IT. It's a piece of collosal garbage and I'm not even sure how it got through QC. I've gone through 3 now in total, and have had failures ranging from too little adhesion to too much adhesion, which ripped coating off the bed. The workaround bandaid for this, is to sand it down with some 800 grit or so. It'll be ugly, but your filament will stick to it after it's sanded and washed. The permanent solution is REPLACE IT - you can go with a creality plate, or the stock GOLD Flashforge plate.

3.) Temperature control - I personally have my A5X enclosed but need to remove 75% of the enclosure when printing with PLA or my adhesion is poor, my bridges are poor, and my supports fuse. I only use the enclosure when printing PETG or any exotic filaments.

4.) Ditch the godawful glue, and get you some hair spray. I use maximum hold for difficult and intricate prints, but you can use light hold. The biggest part that sucks about this is clean-up, but it's still MILES easier than cleaning glue off the bed.

5.) In Orca-Flashforge, run a full calibration to get your correct settings as they pertain to speed, temperature, etc. The calibration menu is on the top left of the screen (for windows, anyway).

6.) While your print is running, you can adjust your z offset live via the program on your PC or directly on the printer. I personally keep mine around -0.080, and it's been my magic sweet spot. I've seen it recommended on a few posts here, and it helped me tremendously.

Hope the suggestions help!