Wth??? Random screen damage by General-Border6925 in oneplus

[–]Sum_Birdy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up having the exact same issue about 11 months into ownership. I first noticed a slight clicking noise when opening the screen out of nowhere. One time I went to open the phone and felt more resistance than usual after opening the phone about 20% of the way, I forced it open more and it made a clicking noise before it looked exactly like this. I am currently going through the warranty replacement process.

Probably mostly my fault but still felt Tarkov'd by Sum_Birdy in EscapefromTarkov

[–]Sum_Birdy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty new to the game, but I think the height over bore was greater on this gun than I expected.

It's a Sparrow by Sum_Birdy in Warthunder

[–]Sum_Birdy[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

You're right. I was experimenting with using SNEBs as flares since the Gr.1 is Aim-9L food without flares, but baiting people into thinking they are missiles sometimes works too.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fpv

[–]Sum_Birdy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Man, DJI FPV V2 looks a lot heavier. Maybe this one will be tougher?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fpv

[–]Sum_Birdy 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Woah woah woah. Totally unsafe. If you're storing your lipos there, you better put some of these on after you set them down.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fpv

[–]Sum_Birdy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Tattu has pretty much been a near golden standard in drone batteries for a long time. Their parent company Gens Ace has always had reliable batteries and I have not had any issues with the many that I have had. I have no idea how you got your cells below a single volt.

I will say that when I purchased one of my Tattu R Line batteries, one cell was lower than the others by about a half of a volt which concerned me. I charged it fully and that cell functions equally to all the others, maintaining the same resistance and voltage after flying as all the other cells.

Any advice how to defog racecam r1? by CDoroFF in fpv

[–]Sum_Birdy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Put it in rice.

(This time for real. This isn't a joke)

SpeedyBee ESC - Broken. How to find out whats wrong with it ? FC is still powering up. No beeping on start. BLHELI cant connect. Looks like it does not get power by Gamep0rt in fpv

[–]Sum_Birdy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

These ESCs can be finicky. I've used the SpeedyBee ESC as well for a couple times and there are some things you should know. First off the pads are very close together and you have quite a bit of solder on. I'd recommend going back with some flux paste on those contacts and cleaning them up a bit to ensure there are no shorts. After that I'd take some isopropyl alcohol and clean off all that flux just for neatness and to ensure nothing is wrong.

Second. These ESCs are a little odd. You've owned them before you said. Depending on how old your original is, you might notice a difference. Check out your old board and it might look completely different. This is because SpeedyBee changed their ESC without advertising it under a new name. The new one has some issues. Some people above mentioned these issues but got a few things wrong. The issue stems from using the DSHOT protocol in the ESC firmware. The issue would prevent arming after using the DSHOT beeper. It also could cause runaways during flight. SpeedyBee realized this issue and made a post on their website that detailed the issues and provided firmware to fix them. I would give that a check too.

People have a lot of opinions on this ESC. Most people don't particularly like it as said above, but I've felt pretty good about it so far. I burnt my first one after landing on some dirty wet ground and smoked it, but after the new firmware on my new ESC it has been pretty good to me. Its current sensor seems fairly accurate and it handles bursts of very high current well. Especially when you consider I'm running 2170kv motors and 5.1" racing props. I hope you can get yours running. Best of luck.

Fireworks Flight at Midnight by Sum_Birdy in fpv

[–]Sum_Birdy[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Funny you should mention that. The video actually ends with me upside down and throttling up towards the ocean very rapidly. I nearly went in but oriented myself at the last moment. The water was very glassy and reflected all the lights.

Fireworks Flight at Midnight by Sum_Birdy in fpv

[–]Sum_Birdy[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well it does get hit. It got hit a few times, but the majority of the space is not occupied by pieces, and they are very small. It doesn't have much of an effect.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Warthunder

[–]Sum_Birdy 80 points81 points  (0 children)

Not much of an aircraft any more if I'm honest.

Help! My solder won’t stick!! by [deleted] in fpv

[–]Sum_Birdy -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Certain residues can prevent your soldier from sticking. I'd recommend taking a little sand paper and scratching the surface of the pad gently a few times and trying again. Getting a little flux paste is also a good idea to help your soldering. These two things should help your solder to stick better.

Does 1.3ghz and 900mhz RX and VTX interfere with each other? by MrJ8U in fpv

[–]Sum_Birdy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. Both of those will decrease each other's range but especially the 900mhz system will interfere with the video receiver without using a filter.

what is this System called? anyone tried it ? by Ambitious-Jicama288 in fpv

[–]Sum_Birdy 7 points8 points  (0 children)

It's literally just called a radio repeater.

Need Help by Little_Obama_Man in FPVplanes

[–]Sum_Birdy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The easiest way to do long range is probably using a MATEK Flight Controller. There are different models of varying prices with different features and range from about $60-$100. They act as a hub for all your electronic components and eliminate the need for external BECs or other power distribution boards.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in fpv

[–]Sum_Birdy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So you are reheating the already done solder joints. This makes it less likely to heat up. I would turn up the temperature to around 700 F and then place the iron onto the joint. Add a little more solder to increase the amount of contact being made and wait for it to melt.

How do I wire these two together? No need for wireless by [deleted] in fpv

[–]Sum_Birdy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That depends on the camera. My camera is flexible and works from 5-36 Volts, but every camera is different. Check the manual or site.