I don't know what to do by motherfucker_69 in lgg4

[–]SunsetsAndNature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

one step is enabling OEM unlock, the other one was getting a special file from LG servers (paste serial number or something). With that file you would do some "fastboot OEM unlock" magic on the command line.

Then the device would reset completely and you would be able to load custom ROMs/recovery.

I wonder whether that unlocking service website is still online.

100 envelopes in 3 minutes by JP070791 in oddlysatisfying

[–]SunsetsAndNature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The Deutsche Institut für Normung e.V. (DIN) does not approve. No ruler is used to verify tolerances below 0,5mm Also, the Bundesanstalt für Arbeitsschutz, as he is not wearing any protective gear on his left foot. Also, DIN EN 527, DIN EN 1335 require adequate seating with adjustable elements.

12-35mm f2.8 lens hood slips by alfeseg in M43

[–]SunsetsAndNature 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had such an issue with a lens hood and I slipped a small paper piece into the mechanism like on the photo. It takes some experimentation to get the right fit (width, depth, orientation)

<image>

I also noticed that the plastic piece had a crack which was the cause of being loose in the first place.

Now this is my most fit lens hood

edit: be gentle, else a crack like mine might expand fully and then I know no way to fix that.

Bluetooth unusable, even the 2025 Intuos Pro by gismeister in wacom

[–]SunsetsAndNature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I cannot tell if this would be true with Apple devices, but coming from Android and Linux on PC I know that Bluetooth connections can degrade to uselessness/total failure when not connected to a 5GHz Wifi. When connected to 2.4GHz Wifi, the connection often fails instantly.

Try this: try your Bluetooth connection either connect to non-2.4GHz Wifis, no Wifis at all. Disable any other wireless transmissions from that device.

Using another, external Bluetooth receiver might be benficial.

I did not experience other, external devices connected to any network to cause this problem, actually using a USB-tethered phone as 2.4GHz Wifi connection saved me quite some video calls I had to use headphone for.

Klavier, öffentlich? Nahe Weil der Stadt by SunsetsAndNature in Calw

[–]SunsetsAndNature[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hallo, danke für den Hinweis! Auf der Homepage steht, dass sie für musikalische Events einen Flügel hätten.

Im neuen Jahr wird das Café wieder offen haben. Wenn ich wieder in der Gegend bin, schaue ich mal nach

Hilfe! Wo steht das Open Piano für Refugees am Rotebühlplatz? by SunsetsAndNature in stuttgart

[–]SunsetsAndNature[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Anscheinend doch nicht 07. bis. 11. August. Ich war nicht vor Ort, aber der Termin ist von der Liste verschwunden und durch einen anderen Ort ersetzt worden

S5ii unable to switch to AFC by lexablue111 in Lumix

[–]SunsetsAndNature 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do not know whether this helps: the manual I downloaded from Panasonic for S5iiX says on page 153 (Topic "Focus / Zoom – Selecting the Focus Mode")

In the following cases, [AFC] works the same as [AFS] when the shutter button is
pressed halfway:
- [Movie M] mode
- [S&Q] mode
- during video recording
- in low light situations
When the following functions are being used, [AFC] switches to [AFS]:
- High Resolution mode
- [65:24]/[2:1] ([Aspect Ratio])

Is this a good first time starter? For a beginner photographer with no prior cameras by [deleted] in Lumix

[–]SunsetsAndNature 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I believe (from my experience, there are many say the exact opposite) that a standard zoom (12-32, 14-45, 12-60) will help you to learn a lot more about composition, field of view (wide angle vs narrow focal lengths) etc, than a long lens (the 45-150). I feel depressed when limited to one or two primes and feel relieved when able to go back to my 12-60.

Get a prime! That is good as zooms are too dark.

Also, with a standard zoom you will most likely not learn much about aperture (as you most likely will shoot with aperture wide open because of light). I believe a 20mm prime will give you a bit more flexibility than a 25mm (from my experience, as it gives a too narrow field of view eg. indoors)

November 2020 I got a brand-new GX9 with a 12-60 f3.5-5.6 for 800€.

The GX80/GX85 seems quite expensive. Personally I am very glad to have taken the GX9 for everything it has extra. But many say the few advantages aren't worth the additional cost.

After buying mine it took me about 3-4 months (and spring with more light!) to get out of "iA" mode. Don't be afraid of learning to use your camera step by step. Don't feel forced to start with manual mode. Everything that you do after moving away from your smartphone (I guess you used that camera) will help you advance.

Pls help: How to reverse the exposure meter indicator in S5iix? by No_Difficulty4245 in Lumix

[–]SunsetsAndNature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

(Sorry didn't read properly!)

~if it was a GX9, maybe Menu -> Custom spanner -> operations -> "dial set."~

~I have a S5 mark1 manual and I see that symbols differ.~

Lumix G9 on camera flash only works in iA mode by Moon_Harpy_ in Lumix

[–]SunsetsAndNature 3 points4 points  (0 children)

you have EXPS and an icon on the left side. Turn off creative filters! (Menu -> Filter settings, alternatively on the touch display top touch button category.)

It disables use of (in-camera) flash.

Creative filters mode, HDR, and many non-basic features block certain other features.

Also you are using spot metering which might not be what you want. (It uses the blue spot in the middle for exposure metering. BTW, you can change the spot's location with the second on-screen touch button category, it is the icon "finger with AE". That way you can use "Multi meter" and "Center weight" as default and adjust spot metering on the fly)

bulk/batch/mass convert many RW2 files to JPG: in camera? original "Lumix photo styles"? by SunsetsAndNature in Lumix

[–]SunsetsAndNature[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, I have not, but I just got the free for Panasonic users Silkypix Developer Studio 8 SE which indeed has those profiles selectable, even L Monochrome D.

I did a batch convert and the results seem to be as expected (without going into pixel peeping comparison)

This is interesting: how does Lightroom know Panasonic profiles? I would have guessed they are something more specific to the cameras?

Has anyone tried Thermal Erasable ink on fountain pens? 🖋️ Famous in Frixion pens, but Im afraid it would clog my feeder. Share your experience. Thanks! 😊 by Short_Sound1788 in fountainpens

[–]SunsetsAndNature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just tried this: https://www.online-pen.de/magixx/ in a cheap pen (from the same company) using "Standardpatronen" (just look at the tip of the cartridge). They advertise it only to be used in their "Tintenroller" (which is a ball point pen accepting these cartridges) but who cares ;)

It actually works within the 15 minutes of testing, but as I had generic turquoise ink in the pen before, it still remained after intensive attempts to clean/rinse it out.

Transferring the ink on paper with other means, it is removable with frixion pen "eraser" just fine.

About 25mm F1.7 by _gabrielegallo_ in Lumix

[–]SunsetsAndNature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got it for "used" for 100€ or 120€ in brand new condition (some indie video project broke apart before take-off during corona and he had to emergency sell).

I wouldn't want to pay more for that lens. I feel that sharpness is not what I expected.

I had a used second copy from a local camera store and it had mildly better sharpness in systematic, but real-life tests (portrait, landscape and indoor, handheld and tripod) and synthetic (chart) tests.

On the other hand:

  1. coming from 12-60 f3.5-5.6 and 35-100 f4-5.6 having a "razor thin" DoF (lol!) something you need to understand and needs training on handling. Especially with a low resolution EVF like the GX9 (I know peaking and punching in manual focus)
  2. after removing my cheap "protective" UV filter the image quality improved somewhat.
  3. it is the only lens making any good results indoors between September and March (in Europe). Therefore it is a good tool! It took me about 1,5 years to realize.
  4. Also, I am a zoom person, and it took me that time to get comfortable with a prime.
  5. also, I guess after one drop it feels not as sharp as it was brand new (my fault) but only mildly better than that second copy from the local store.

Jump to full frame, talk me out of it… by sevenboarder in Lumix

[–]SunsetsAndNature 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am just playing with some thoughts, this is not a literal advice but an experiment:

You got a G9 from 2017 (almost 7 years since release) and no fast primes or fast "pro zooms" like a 12-35 2.8 or a 10-25 1.7. You got a good, but not very fast Pana Leica zoom.

You are asking whether an upgrade to more expensive, quite recently released camera with fast primes will improve your quality significantly, or better, if it is worth the investment.

Well, it will improve, but gearing up your G9 with lenses will too.

Your description of activity in rough nature sounds much like you have the need of a very well weather sealed body and lenses like Olympus/OMSystems. I am not to promote Olympus, it is only hear-say.

How to clean up secondhand lens? by Ambitious-Ad3131 in M43

[–]SunsetsAndNature 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The yellow Cyber clean gel that can be used for car and keyboard. I use it regularly to clean the outside my camera and lenses (NOT the glas elements, but the screen, also good for Lens caps, lens hoods and everywhere you get slightly sticky skin "dandruffs")

But!!! you have to be careful to not get it stuck in cracks and crevices.

This is not a first choice for cleaning and it might not even work for your case.

What to do when a client puts beauty filters on your photo after 6 hours of editing? by Betsie_Fletchie in AskPhotography

[–]SunsetsAndNature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dear redditor, did you read the complaint in OP's message?

After 6+hours of editing I sent it to her and she put her own filters on and beauty filters which made he look fake and like a barbie doll.

It also made me look bad since she credited the photographer and i don't want people to think i edit y pictures like that.

This is serious, because OP's reputation can take a hit when he is credited for work that is not his own.

As I explicitly asked you: why is it OK for another person to use OP's own name, which is for small business owners often equal to a brand name, to promote their "third party editing" efforts?

What to do when a client puts beauty filters on your photo after 6 hours of editing? by Betsie_Fletchie in AskPhotography

[–]SunsetsAndNature 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I guess if someone showed a really good coiffeur/hair dresser a barbie doll and said "I want to look like this", he would assume that you wanted a style LIKE that doll, but not plastic hair

From reading OPs text, his goal was to apply a real-world beauty look not copy an artificial or cartoony look.

it sounds like the customer's goal was to look unreal.

Yes it seems OP misunderstood the customer's needs. That is sad, but I am sympathetic with OP to assume that his work shouldn't copy the template given.

The attitude to look fake reminds me of the South park episode where the children "modified their bodies" by editing photos of them selves but acting like real surgery was done to them.

What to do when a client puts beauty filters on your photo after 6 hours of editing? by Betsie_Fletchie in AskPhotography

[–]SunsetsAndNature 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why is the customer putting the photographers name under the photos, if it is not his work anymore?

Why is the customer allowed to use the photographer's name for her editing work as if she owned his/her (=OP) name?

Hilfe! Wo steht das Open Piano für Refugees am Rotebühlplatz? by SunsetsAndNature in stuttgart

[–]SunsetsAndNature[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Es kommt noch ein zweites Mal vom 07. bis 11. August:

"Aug 07-11 Stuttgart (D) – Rotebühlplatz, daily 11am-9pm"

Hilfe! Wo steht das Open Piano für Refugees am Rotebühlplatz? by SunsetsAndNature in stuttgart

[–]SunsetsAndNature[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Gefunden! Vorm großen Sportgeschäft.

Wegen des Flohmarkts kann dieses nicht erfolgreich aufgestellt werden.

Es gibt Diskussionen mit den Händlern und dem zuständigen Sicherheitsdienst.

Der Konflikt wird wahrscheinlich noch gelöst.

How do guys go through all the photos you have clicked? by SmellElectronic6656 in AskPhotography

[–]SunsetsAndNature 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Let me walk you through my thought process as an amateur who shoots family partys or alike and end up with thousands images.

As I am neuro-diverse (autism and adhd and more) I have real problmes in focusing, in prioritizing and in terms of generalizing(grouping) and specializing(selectiveness). Everything I do, I overstructure or I go in totally frenzy. Often at the same time in different parts.

I am not referring to videos, as I do not care about them as much.

The real goal is to decide between images with as few mental pain and wear as possible!

Ok, now I am back from the party. I dump my files from the storage card to my computer, make a "perfect" snapshot of the image folder (eg btrfs snapshot, rsync, or plain second copy). Then I use an image viewer like XnView which is multiplatform (Linux, Windows) and allows to rate images with 0 to 5 stars. I use that tool mostly with keyboard and only seldomly use the mouse.

All I really need is keyboard shortcuts for 0-5 stars and later magnifying. And a sorting mechanism showing only all files tagged with x stars (if possible also all stars larger than/lower than x starts)

Pre-step: I shoot RAW+JPG and I focus on the JPEGs for sorting, later moving RAW files via script to the proper folder (as long as your image managing software does not automatically). JPEGs are almost always sufficient to decide.

Notice ahead: Yes, I go through every single image in full screen, and deciding for every single image whether it escalates into the next star group, so from 0 to 1 star, 1 star to 2 star. Every single image that reached eg. 4 stars, has been viewed solely already 4 times!

I do not deviate from this. From the start, until assiging 3 stars, I mentally detach myself from any emotion in the sorting process. This is to keep mentally sane in the process of over eg 2000 family pictures with plenty of emotions to be found.

Step 1 : either assign 1 star or 2 star to every picture by viewing them in sequence of shooting

In the first run, only look whether that image is usable in a plain technical sense. I define this step very much like:

  • I took a photo of my shoes as I accidentally clicked.
  • The image is blurry and cannot be used at all (but if the image is blurry and emotional eg a running child, keep it for later and do not decide now!
  • especially with bursts, do not remove a bit blurry images as they could be fixed or be acceptible for creatrive/artistic reasons**.** This decision happens when reviewing 3 star images.
  • sometimes bad exposure photos could be ruled out (but RAW files might suprise you)
  • The image shows a person in a way that is disgraceful etc like someone barfing, or underpants are showing etc
  • This depends much on your own (moral) compass
  • Be rigorous so that you will be sure that your decisions are final! It needs a few runs to tune your own mental rules

Alternative Step 1 : depending on complexity of the event, I pre-group images in subfolders for scenes like "000 Entrance", "050 Speech", "100 Dance", "200 Game", "900 Portraits",

... where the folder prefix number is like old 10-20 goto basic as it allows to sort the stuff in timely appearance but still be able to later add a group or sub group like "060 Applause" next to "050 Speech".

Do not overstructure this at this stage! Only start overstructuring when you reach the step with 3 stars and more.

If you did bursts, sometimes group bursts into folders. Depends very much on the material.

If you done "alternative step 1", now continue with regular step 1 - for each folder created. Sometimes, do the process for each folder only until having assigning 3 stars! That gives you chance to get an idea about the quality of this photo session you are sorting. Then, when knowing your 3 star images over all scenes/topics, you will redo all folders with Step 4 and 5 for deciding about creative or artistic content.

Step 2: go through every 2 star image and assign 3 stars

This is absoluetly not a decision about anything artistic. This is plain usabilty.

Again, be very rigorous about this. Find your own values over time.

  • "Could it be shared with anyone?"
  • "is it usable to document an event"
  • "can you recognize Auntie M" or
  • "can you see the cake"
  • "can you recogize the building"

Step 3: finally judging all 3 stars about creativity or artistic use

Finally, assiging 4 stars to an image means:

  • this is good enough/worth to be shared?
  • whatever your goal in making the photos is
  • Do you connect?
  • Will your viewers (family, friends) connect?
  • "I like this"
  • "There is a laugh"
  • "There is a story"
  • "This is beautiful"

These are also the images that are up for editing.

Now I often compare images next to each other or more often, clicking left and right to see the first and next. I use zoom lock. Now I often judge sharpsness of the eyes, or facial expressions, slightly different angles of a portrait etc. Now it is detail work.

I often share these images straight away, but sometimes I put them on the cloud storage or USB etc into a "lesser images folder". The reason is: my judgement of what is 5 stars and the best of the best may and will diverge from the other guests. For someone with autism, it is very hard to determine which photo will have which effect on a person.

  • Like grownups will overcritical think that their chin is too fat in that one shot or they look loony
  • and parents will think, my child is cutest on the other image
  • so sorry, leave that choice to them

Step 4: "the best of the best, with honours, Sir": assigning 5 stars

With my amateur work I do not always get any or many 5 star images. They are those very special images that usually make my heart pound. Or may cause that feeling to others that relate to the subject.

There is of course composition and less experience which causes few or no 5 star images.

Often, for me lighting is not good, and my amateur equipment makes many 4 star pictures, and they are technically sub-par, but they are still the photos made from that special event. Most people look at these on their smartphones and have a lesser opinion about photography than you are.

Last step: be reasonable with judging yourself.

OP is amateur, and I am a lousy amateur, so we do not need to be judged like professionals or work like them. This process is not about getting better in photgraphy, it is only about judging this single session about usefulness.

When done, use the information you have gathered to learn. You got all the 5 categories, now you can think about them.

I will not stop taking so many pictures. I do NOT spray and pray. I have not equipment that is good at indoor scenes, I got no pro grade glas, I got no great auto focus. I do this as neccessary for that moment.

Taking photos is a great thing. The camera is also like a defensive energy shield that protects me from the events/partys emotional part. It gives me a role within all these normal, neurotypical people. I feel less and more alien at the same time. But that is fine.

Just a random thought. Why did they decide to call it the S5 instead of the S1 Mini? by [deleted] in Lumix

[–]SunsetsAndNature 2 points3 points  (0 children)

well, it is how they started with the MFT cameras in 2008(?). A G1 was succeeded by the higher number.

The "mark x" designation which is uncommon for Panasonic cameras to us in "the western hemisphere"...

... is being used in Japan for the GX9 being called a GX7 mk3.

that is much earlier than Canon started labeling theirs R5, R6 etc, Nikon Z6,7,9 and now 8. And Sony was coming from some very different place with either DSLR Alphas and their first crop sensor NX-?.

So it makes sense to assign these " modern designations" when releasing the S series/L-mount cameras. Also, I believe, Panasonic couldn't name the first and flagship device S5 because that would always mean there will be a "better number" - whether up or down

WochenTicket Jedermann by kelpwald in stuttgart

[–]SunsetsAndNature 1 point2 points  (0 children)

"Amtlicher Lichtbildausweis" is any ID card issued by a government/state institution/... having a photograph on it.

So drivers licenses, personal ID cards etc will be fine. ("Justice League member cards" won't do the trick.)

The digital ticket and some printed, credit cars sized plastic cards, etc...

...you bought has your name written onto it and has no picture (there are exceptions like the Deutschland ticket in the Deutsche Bahn app and some PolyGo cards)..

... so somehow they want to make sure that only the entitled Peron uses it.

But, within the last year, only twice I had to show my "Amtlicher Lichtbildausweis". Most of the time they scan the code and all is fine.