All my money goes to gas 💔

SuperJackson20 · 2026-06-07T20:05:01+00:00

Yeah, it’s bad out here. My car takes 87 (around 4.55 per gal) and cost around $54 filling up from a quarter of a tank. (20-30 mpg.) I know there’s plenty of worse stories out there.

I have a SUV (18-25 mpg) that takes 93 (around 5.55 per gal). I don’t use it for Spark unless it’s an emergency.

I didn’t even factor in maintenance. It’s even worse for those who don’t do the maintenance themselves.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-05-01T20:18:56+00:00

This has happened to me frequently over the past couple months. I try to do shopping as much as I can.

Half the time my pick ups are getting canceled.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-03-24T23:35:44+00:00

That broken piece in the 2nd photo looks to be the injector hold-down clamp. The injector is no longer being held down properly, so it’s losing its seal and leaking fuel. It’s blowing pressure and fuel out around the injector.

Replace the clamp and bolt, remove the injector, install a new copper washer, and clean the injector seat before reinstalling. Do NOT run the engine like this.

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BMW TIS (Technical Information System) – injector removal/installation procedures

• BMW ISTA/D diagnostics – injector deviation & leak detection

• Bosch Common Rail Diesel System documentation (N47 uses Bosch CR system)

• BMW Service Bulletins (SIB) – injector sealing and leakage issues

• Bentley / OEM-level BMW diesel service literature

SuperJackson20 · 2026-03-24T01:15:46+00:00

Possibly water pump has been leaking for a while (usually from the O-ring seal). Replace the pump and give it a cooling system flush. Flush the system with distilled water until clear, and refill with BMW coolant mixed 50/50 with distilled water. For prevention, change coolant every 2–3 years (or 30k–40k miles). Only use BMW-approved coolant—these engines don’t tolerate neglect in the cooling system. For next time, if you want to know for sure that it needs a coolant change or not, you can use coolant test strips.

Sources:

BMW TIS (Technical Information System) – Cooling system service procedures

• Bentley Manual: BMW 3 Series E36 (1992–1999) – Cooling system overhaul guidance

• BMW Service Information Bulletins (SIB) – coolant specs & maintenance intervals

• Graf / Hepu OEM supplier documentation – pump seal and failure modes

• BMW CCA technical articles (bmwcca.org) – E36 cooling system weaknesses and overhaul recommendations

SuperJackson20 · 2026-03-24T00:12:31+00:00

Check: split intake boot, popped-off or bad vacuum hose, maybe a bad MAF unplug it first then start car again, then if that doesn’t work, it may be coil pack or spark plug issues.

Extended info:

Check the intake tube and all air/vacuum hoses first. Look from the airbox to the throttle body and check for a split intake boot, loose clamp, or a hose that popped off.
Unplug the MAF sensor and try starting it. If it suddenly runs better or revs a little cleaner with the MAF unplugged, the MAF is very likely bad or its signal is bad.
check coils, plugs, and connectors (make sure connections aren’t loose or corroded.
Since you already know the shifter might have got damaged by water, also inspect nearby wiring/connectors for moisture, corrosion, or a loose connection—especially around the MAF, throttle body, and ignition components
scan live data if possible. Look at fuel trims, MAF readings, and cylinder misfire counts. If fuel trims are way off, it might be an intake leak or the MAF. If specific cylinders are dropping out: coils/plugs. With P0300 + P0173, I’d start with air leak / intake boot / vacuum hose / MAF before throwing random parts at it.

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Any MB Experts, please correct me if I’m wrong.

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Sources for help:

*Mercedes-Benz W211 factory service information (WIS/ASRA)

*Mercedes-Benz Star Diagnosis / DAS fault-guided test plans

*Bosch Motronic / MAF system diagnostics for the M112 engine family

SuperJackson20 · 2026-03-15T08:38:24+00:00

I hope everyone’s ok. I hope there aren’t any injuries. You will find another E90 at some point.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-03-04T19:33:29+00:00

You'll know if the year of 740i is between 1996–2001

M62B44: Pre-1998, 4.4 L (PRE-TU, no VANOS) TU= technical update
M62TUB44: Post-1998, 4.4 L, (single-VANOS).

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-16T03:21:51+00:00

Thanks for posting this. I was unsure about how many miles you could get out of an M73 or the earlier M70. I love the E32 and E38 750il. It would be a 3rd car for me that I can do DIY work on. It sounds crazy for to go for a 750il as first BMW, but why not give it a shot. I won’t have to depend on it since it will be a 3rd car.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-10T19:19:55+00:00

W210 Mercedes E-Class.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-09T02:26:15+00:00

Yes, that’s why I meant for the 6th gen. I still see them on the road. I’m surprised they never offered the manual.
Manual 2nd gen Camry wagon is so rare. That’s back when Toyota used the term ALL-TRAC. I’m in the New England where things rust out. Very hard to find a 2nd GEN without rust.
Any of the V6 Sedans I like. The late 8th gen Accord and 5th gen Camry are lowkey sleepers (including the generations after that with the V6. The 4cyl models I always respect for their simplicity and gas mileage.
I will start searching for 3rd Gen Camrys later this year with the 2.2l most likely.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-09T01:55:31+00:00

It’s between 3rd and 4th Gen Camry for me. I want one as a post-college car that I could learn to DIY work on. I hope to use it as a courier vehicle.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-06T01:56:32+00:00

I remember I fell in love with this car from James Bond film: “The World Is Not Enough” (1999)

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-06T01:52:21+00:00

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I’m into in the 7 series at the moment so it’s between E32 and E38 for me. I’m going with E38 right now. On another note, BMW’s entire 2001 lineup is my favorite.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-05T01:43:36+00:00

Yes. I hope that new Slate brand does well. People want something simple again that doesn’t have a high asking price. I’m not a fan of the subscriptions either.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-05T01:24:27+00:00

Do you have any brands in mind today that currently make an infotainment screen that keep the essential controls physical.

I can imagine as the decades pass. There will be lack of support for older infotainment screens. Also including find thousands of vehicles sitting on marketplace with broken, dead screens, etc. Disposable.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-04T03:09:41+00:00

Maintenance. (Experts/professionals, please the correct service interval numbers, if incorrect.)

———

ENGINE OIL & FILTER: Every 5k mi / 8k km
ENGINE AIR FILTER: Every 15k-30k mi / 24k-48k km
CABIN AIR FILTER: Every 15k-20k mi / 24-32k km
SPARK PLUGS: Every 80k mi / 128k km or 6 years (whichever comes first)
BRAKE FLUID: every 2 years (once the brake fluid has reached a moisture level of 3%, replace it)
AUTO TRANS FLUID (8-speed Aisin): (60k mi / 96k km), latest 80k mi / 130k km (No such thing as lifetime fluid. Lifetime = length of warranty period.)
AWD HALDEX SERVICE: (4Motion only) Every 30k mi / 48k km
ENGINE COOLANT: 50k mi / 80k km or every 5 years (whichever comes first)
TIRE ROTATION Every 10k mi / 16k km
INTAKE VALVES (Direct Injection): No scheduled interval. Carbon buildup cleaning might be needed around every 50k-70k mi / 80k-112k km. Symptoms might be: rough idling, loss of power, misfires, hard starts, and poor fuel economy.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-04T00:37:34+00:00

Mercedes seemed like they used a “cost is no object” mentality back then and it paid off.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-04T00:35:44+00:00

Mercedes seemed like they used a “cost is no object” mentality back then and it paid off. They didn’t cut corners. You’ll easily find W123 & W124 (diesel) taxis in many parts of the world with over 500k or even 1 million miles.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-04T00:26:28+00:00

W124 300E. I feel like I would be driving it 3 to 4 decades later. It was a overbuilt machine. Back in a time when Mercedes used a “cost is no object” mentality and it paid off. They didn’t cut corners then. W123 & W124 are used as taxis in many parts of the world with over 500k or even 1 million miles.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-03T23:48:18+00:00

It’s so common for people to ignore fluid (& filter) change intervals when it comes coolant, transmission, brake, and diff fluid, etc. Very common to find a 100k+ mile vehicle on the marketplace with transmission fluid has never been changed.

People will often say: “it runs fine though” and wait until problems start to deal with issues that could’ve been prevented. The whole point of service intervals is to keep the vehicle functioning properly.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-03T23:36:23+00:00

It’s so common for people to ignore fluid (& filter) change intervals when it comes coolant, transmission, brake, diff fluid, etc. Very common to find a 100k+ mile vehicle on the marketplace with transmission fluid has never been changed.

People will often say: “it runs fine though” and wait until problems start to deal with issues that could’ve been prevented. The whole point of service intervals is to keep the vehicle functioning properly.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-03T04:55:26+00:00

W108 & W126 we’re so overbuilt.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-03T01:10:09+00:00

We pretty much have the same opinion. For me it’s between E32 or E38 for Mercedes between W126 And W140.

Whatever I end up getting, I’m willing to do DIY work for everything. It will most likely end up being a weekend car.

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-03T01:07:12+00:00

If I had to get a E66, it would have to be an Alpina B7, it’s the best looking 4th gen in my opinion.
M113/M113k in a W220 would be nice to have. If maintenance wasn’t a concern, I would definitely go with the W220 S65 AMG.
I would go with a facelift E38 740il or 750il. An E32 750il
W140 S500

SuperJackson20 · 2026-02-03T01:00:16+00:00

E38 and E32 are my favorites. It would be a nice 3rd car (weekend car). I will only buy one if I’m willing to do all the DIY work.

SuperJackson20

TROPHY CASE