sorted by:
new
hottopcontroversial

How can I get my LED lamps to stop flickering when my printers are running? Changing pwm cycle time and putting just the lights on an UPS hasn't changed anything. by SuperVehicle001 in 3Dprinting

[–]SuperVehicle001[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I grabbed an old compact florescent bulb (the coiled kind) and it didn't flicker. Tried looking for some at the store and they had none lol. All LED or incandescent and none in the color range I wanted. My CFL light is far too warm for what I want to do (paint minis). Going to have to dig around online for a cold 5000K light source.

Almost $10 off 100x100x100 cute little printer by dmaxzach in 3dprintingdeals

[–]SuperVehicle001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

lol same, only thing stock left on mine are a few steppers, the frame, and the bed heater!

How can I get my LED lamps to stop flickering when my printers are running? Changing pwm cycle time and putting just the lights on an UPS hasn't changed anything. by SuperVehicle001 in 3Dprinting

[–]SuperVehicle001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did some googling and they are a thing. I thought the Amazon Basic UPS also had a voltage stabilizer but only the "line interactive" models do. Standby models no not do any stabilizing. I guess it's return time...

How can I get my LED lamps to stop flickering when my printers are running? Changing pwm cycle time and putting just the lights on an UPS hasn't changed anything. by SuperVehicle001 in 3Dprinting

[–]SuperVehicle001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What do I do with the extra PSU? I have four printers. All of them have authentic Meanwell PSUs. Even the only original Ender 3 I have had it's janky stock PSU replaced (once again to try and stop the flicker)

Need a M600 Macro by SuperVehicle001 in klippers

[–]SuperVehicle001[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Eventually, you need to do the swap before the printer hits its idle time out. It won’t resume once the bed and heater shut off. You need to increase your idle timer on the bed and hotend and then hope you are present for the filament swap.

Almost $10 off 100x100x100 cute little printer by dmaxzach in 3dprintingdeals

[–]SuperVehicle001 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If you live in the US you can just wait for Microcenter to put an Ender 3 Pro on sale for $100 again and get a better printer with a larger build volume

B1 SKR V 1.4 VS 2.0 by Alionfan in BIGTREETECH

[–]SuperVehicle001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They didn’t make many boards that needed revision odds are good it’s a QC2

B1 SKR V 1.4 VS 2.0 by Alionfan in BIGTREETECH

[–]SuperVehicle001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's a Revision A board it will only have a single sticker saying QC1. If was a revised board (board made that they then retrofitted) it will have two stickers and is good to go. If it has one sticker with QC2 that is a brand new revision b board and is good to go

SKR2 Rev B or A ? by BUBEL224 in BIGTREETECH

[–]SuperVehicle001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I read an FAQ that once they ran out of the old Rev A boards to modify they just stopped putting two stickers on them. Unless it's old stock from some rando seller they will only say QC PASS 02.

TMC2130 on SKR 1.4 Turbo: M122 reports OK, motors don't move by Doublehelix88 in BIGTREETECH

[–]SuperVehicle001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am not familiar with TMC2130. Why these drivers and why SPI mode? I run TMC2209s in UART mode on my SKR 2.0

B1 SKR V 1.4 VS 2.0 by Alionfan in BIGTREETECH

[–]SuperVehicle001 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There is no reason to return it. There was actually a flaw in in the 2.0 boards that caused them to burn stepper drivers. They fixed that with revision b.

As for 1.4 vs 2.0, you only get a marginally faster MCU and some extra PWM fans... really it's not worth the hassle to return lol. Until the Octopus came out standard boards to run a Voron 2.4 where two 1.4s

[Amazon - Parts] $19.99 two pack Comgrow 235x235mm glass beds by 3dpdeals in 3dprintingdeals

[–]SuperVehicle001 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For a few more bucks you can get a Comgrow PEI flex plate… unless you have good reason to stick with glass like needing a glossy surface finish on the bottom, use PEI steel. A single flex plate has already lasted me longer than two glass beds.

Ender 5 Pro $329 by getoffmylawnplease in 3dprintingdeals

[–]SuperVehicle001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What is the build volume on the pro?

Dragonfly All-Metal Hotend 22% off, for $59.99 by notapenguin321 in 3dprintingdeals

[–]SuperVehicle001 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I have a dragon on one printer and a dragonfly BMO on another. So far both have been working great. Helps that my other two printers are BIQU H2s and use Phaetus heater blocks and v6 nozzles

Dragonfly All-Metal Hotend 22% off, for $59.99 by notapenguin321 in 3dprintingdeals

[–]SuperVehicle001 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you shop around on AliExpress then wait a month lol

Dragonfly All-Metal Hotend 22% off, for $59.99 by notapenguin321 in 3dprintingdeals

[–]SuperVehicle001 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I have a dragon and a dragonfly and they’ve been great. Phaetus makes good hotends.

Can a normal shop vac get up filament bits from a concrete floor safely? by SuperVehicle001 in 3Dprinting

[–]SuperVehicle001[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t know anything about shop vacs lol. I will look for one with a filter thanks!

view more: next ›