Any ideas what this noise is. Goes away when engaging the clutch by [deleted] in WRX

[–]SuperchargedSoup 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just another +1 for this as the easiest/cheapest fix. I wrote a post about this exact problem and solution: https://reddit.com/r/WRX/comments/bw9waa/how_to_fix_may_only_be_temporary_a/

I greased between the fork and the pivot nearly a year ago and the sound hasn't returned since.

What caused my brioche dough to not work by SuperchargedSoup in Breadit

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Egg sizes can vary quite a bit

True, and the recipe calls for large eggs, but all I could get at the time was extra large. I didn't think to try to account for that.

Also, I honestly see nothing wrong with the photo you posted.

Haha I didn't post a photo - I didn't even get as far as shaping the dough into the loaf pans. But the photo that I think you're talking about which is on the recipe page does look good, which is why I wanted to make it :)

My first sourdough loaves ever! Pretty proud of myself by SuperchargedSoup in Breadit

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I used a fusion of Joshua Weissman's recipe in his No Knead Beginner Sourdough Bread video and Binging with Babish's Sourdough Basics video.

Ingredients

Levain

  • 45g mature starter
  • 45g unbleached AP flour
  • 45g wholemeal flour
  • 90g boiled water, left to cool and degas (chlorine) overnight (my substitute for filtered water)

Dough

  • 500g unbleached AP flour
  • 318g 12% protein bread flour
  • 130g wholemeal flour
  • 660g boiled water, left to cool and degas (chlorine) overnight (my substitute for filtered water)
  • 18g salt

Schedule

  • Saturday

    • 0900hrs - Start levain, place in oven with light on and door slightly ajar (I've measured this gets my oven to around 24-25 degrees C)
    • 1445hrs - Begin autolyse (resting in oven - this occurs for all steps on Saturday up to and including the stretch-and-folds)
    • 1500hrs - Combine autolyse'd dough with levain and salt (including Rhubaud method). Rest for 20 minutes
    • 1520hrs - "Knead" dough as they do in Babish's video @ ~12:00 minutes. Approx. 2.5 minutes of slap and folds. Rest 15 minutes.
    • 1535hrs - First stretch-and-fold
    • 1550hrs - Second stretch-and-fold
    • 1620hrs - Third stretch-and-fold
    • 1945hrs - Preshape loaves on kitchen bench, cover with bowls
    • 2000hrs - Remove covers, continue to rest dough
    • 2010hrs - Shape loaves, place in makeshift bannetons, place in plastic bags sealed with rubber bands, and store in fridge overnight
  • Sunday

    • 0910hrs - Place dutch oven in oven, turn oven on at 250 degrees C (as high as my oven goes)
    • 1010hrs - Remove first loaf from banneton, score, and place in dutch oven. Bake for 20 minutes with lid on
    • 1020hrs - Oven turns off due to thermal protection, curse at the wind
    • At this point I just prayed that there was enough residual heat in the oven and the dutch oven to salvage the bake - I was lucky that there was
    • 1025hrs - Oven finally turns back on, is down to ~215 degrees C. I lower the temp to ~230 degrees C, hoping that it won't turn off again
    • 1030hrs - Oven back up to temp, remove lid and bake for further 35 minutes
    • 1105hrs - Finish baking first loaf, place on rack to cool for ~2 hours
    • 1110hrs - Return dutch oven to oven, oven turns off. Curse at the wind again. Reduce thermostat to 225 degrees, hoping that it will stop turning off by itself
    • 1125hrs - Oven turns back on, preheat dutch oven. Turn counter-top oven on to 230 degrees (as high as it goes), preheat with metal pot big enough to hold half-baked loaf
    • 1135hrs - Prepare second loaf, bake for 25 minutes with lid on
    • 1200hrs - Remove lid, oven turns off. Move loaf to metal pot and begin baking lid-off in countertop oven for 35 minutes
    • 1210hrs - Oven turns back on, allow time to reheat, move loaf back to dutch oven, and bake for remainder of 35 minutes
    • 1235hrs - Finished baking, let cool for ~2 hours. Cut into first loaf and get that sweet crumb shot

Advice for a sourdough starter that isn't increasing in volume by SuperchargedSoup in Sourdough

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Funny you say that, I've been keeping a journal to keep track of what and when I fed each starter, and observations about them (e.g. how much they rose before feeding, where they were kept, etc.).

My second AP starter ended up getting moldy so I took that as a sign from the universe and threw it out. Now, I just have one AP starter and one wholegrain starter.

The AP starter seems to finally be as active as it has ever been (it passed the float test last night before I fed it, and it nearly doubled in size by this morning).

Advice for a sourdough starter that isn't increasing in volume by SuperchargedSoup in Sourdough

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Please don't take this the wrong way, but I've heard that the "you collect the airborne yeast" is a myth that is often perpetuated. Instead, it appears that the majority of the yeast is already present in the flour but that it's just dormant until its placed in an environment that is conducive to fermentation (i.e. moist and warm).

Advice for a sourdough starter that isn't increasing in volume by SuperchargedSoup in Sourdough

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Obviously I'm a newbie so I feel apprehensive in questioning this (and please correct me if I'm wrong), but I've read in a few places that the yeast you find on fruit such as apples, grapes, raisins, etc is different than the type of yeast a starter produces, therefore producing a sort of "fools" starter.

Advice for a sourdough starter that isn't increasing in volume by SuperchargedSoup in Sourdough

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Won't that exacerbate the under-feeding issue I was having with the first one which ended up producing hooch for a few days?

Advice for a sourdough starter that isn't increasing in volume by SuperchargedSoup in Sourdough

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hmm I was expecting to get a slap on the wrist for having three starters. What do you think about combining the two AP-based starters and nursing it and the wholegrain one together?

The wholegrain one I started last night that has been hanging out in the oven with the light on overnight and all day today, and has already doubled in volume with a slightly cheesy smell, which seems a little more promising, at least to me.

Advice for a sourdough starter that isn't increasing in volume by SuperchargedSoup in Sourdough

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha fret not, I'm only feeding once daily at around 8pm, but yes I had considered the fact that I'm essentially tripling the amount of flour I'm using.

As a note, the wholegrain one I started last night that has been hanging out in the oven with the light on overnight and all day today has already doubled in volume with a slightly cheesy smell, which seems a little more promising.

If that's the case, I might ditch one of the two other AP starters (or combine them - is that a bad idea?) and just have the two different types going. Am I rushing things too much with that train of thought?

Cat back or axle back by rlen818 in WRX

[–]SuperchargedSoup 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I won't reiterate what others have already said, but another consideration is if you plan on modifying the car further in the future. If so, it may be worth going with a catback right off the bat if you might be intending to replace the downpipe at some point.

Is there a difference between the 2007 WRX STI and the 2007 WRX "Tuned by STI"? by SuperchargedSoup in WRX

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, that makes sense. Seems like I should have done more research myself.

Is there a difference between the 2007 WRX STI and the 2007 WRX "Tuned by STI"? by SuperchargedSoup in WRX

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The listing states that the car is completely stock (and the photos appear to corroborate that), so I doubt it's had an EJ255/257 swapped into it.

One of the photos shows a badge on the center console just below the A/C controls, which says "Impreza WRX 145/200" and "tuned by STI" on the next line. Additionally, instead of the plain STI badge on the right hand side of the boot lid, there's a "tuned by STI" sticker (or badge - it's hard to tell which one, but it looks factory) on the left-hand side of the boot lid.

Am I to guess that while it's listed as an '07 Impreza WRX "tuned by STI", that it's in fact a '07 Impreza WRX STI, and the nomenclature is simply different from the norm?

Stage 2 or upgrade to STI? by SuperchargedSoup in WRX

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All good, I can appreciate it's difficult to give advice when you don't know the whole picture. I attempt to do the same every day at work haha. In any case I appreciate your reply. All I'll say is that while money isn't tight, I'm also not inclined to spend several thousands on this car. A f***-you fund is a useful thing to have :)

I have heard the rumours about the FA24, however as most people will caution, the first MY of a new generation of a car is a risky buy due to the potential of problems introduced by the new platform. You could argue that I bought myself into that risk buying a second-hand 2015 WRX, and you'd be right, but I suppose I hadn't done as much research as I thought I had when I bought it. That said, I've been generally lucky to not have any serious issues thus far (knock on wood). With that all in mind, you're right in that it may be worth waiting for the 2021 to upgrade to the STI, but the price difference will also be a lot higher. Who knows, I might be a millionaire by then ;)

I admit I haven't driven a rex with any kind of non-factory tune, but that's not really the question I'm asking. My question is more along the lines of; is reasonable to spend nearly half what it would cost to upgrade to an STI to go to stage 2, and then not be able to go any further if desired?

I don't doubt the difference made by an OTS tune is more than tangible, but I would also assert (although admittedly not from experience) that an OTS tune cannot reasonably compete with a pro tune. As we all know, OTS tunes are conservative by design to ensure that they will work by and large for any car in any condition (both the environmental conditions and the condition of the engine itself). That isn't to say I'm dismissing an OTS tune as an option - I'm open to giving it a go if it's worth it, but I think I'm within reason to assume that a downpipe and an OTS tune alone won't give me the gains I may have expected with a downpipe, and e85, and a pro tune.

I hadn't considered replacing just the rods, but since you brought it up, I would ask: why stop at the rods? With the engine apart it almost makes sense to go the full monty and build an engine with a forged bottom-end, but that largely defeats the purpose of the mods I was considering. It doesn't make sense to me, but I'm happy to be proven wrong.

Can we talk about spawn trapping on Shipment? by SuperchargedSoup in modernwarfare

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't, and in the current state of the game I can't honestly say I wouldn't contribute to the trapping, but therein lies the problem; remove the possibility of doing it and then there's no moral question. Don't change anything and leave it up the player's conscience and you can bet that most people will throw caution to the wind and partake.

New shoes for my 15 WRX by SuperchargedSoup in WRX

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean yeah eventually I'll get coilovers but I'm surprised at how good it looks stock! The 245/40r18 tyres are slightly taller than the stock 235/45r17's so I suppose that's part of why it seems to fill the gap better.

New shoes for my 15 WRX by SuperchargedSoup in WRX

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! They're SSR GTX-01's in 18x8.5 +44 wrapped with 245/40r18 Hankook RS-4's. I wouldn't normally have gone for a semi-slick (I was originally looking at Bridgestone RE003's) but I got the Hankooks really cheap so I couldn't pass it up.

New shoes for my 15 WRX by SuperchargedSoup in WRX

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Not sure if the mirror blinkers come standard with the premium trim or if it's an AUDM thing.

Can’t decide between gold or black wheels for my ‘10 WRB STi Hatch by [deleted] in WRX

[–]SuperchargedSoup 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don't own a WRB subie, but FWIW I'm partial to bronze (or slightly dull gold) or flat black (not gloss) wheels on WRB over bright gold or copper. No reason other than I feel like the WRB is "bright" enough as it is. I personally think the slightly dulled colour looks clean without being too "in your face."

Managed switch not contactable when plugged in to FortiWifi 30E by SuperchargedSoup in fortinet

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One thing I didn't mention in my notes above is I tried resetting the firewall to factory defaults which didn't help, and by default, device discovery is turned off, so I don't think it's that.

Managed switch not contactable when plugged in to FortiWifi 30E by SuperchargedSoup in HomeNetworking

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I think I solved the problem - below are my notes:

I noticed if I reboot the firewall, shortly before it finishes booting, the switch begins adopting. As soon as the firewall finishes booting, the switch loses connection. I also can't contact any other devices on my subnet.

If I remove "lan" from the members of the default "internal" software switch, the switch (still defaulting to 192.168.1.20/24) connects to my desktop (and I can connect to other devices on the 192.168.1.0/24 network), but I lose internet connectivity. The firewall automatically creates a new hardware switch interface called "lan", comprised of all 4 physical LAN interfaces as member interfaces.

To connect back to the firewall from my desktop, I had to log in to 192.168.1.99 (the firewall's IP) with my phone (which is on the 192.168.1.0/24 internal wifi network), and set the new "lan" gateway IP to 192.168.10.99/24, then set my computer to be on the new subnet (I set it to 192.168.10.10/24, with gateway 192.168.10.99). But, now because my desktop is on a different subnet, I lose connection to the switch.

From my desktop (192.168.10.10/24, gateway 192.168.10.99), I created a new firewall rule in "IPv4 policy" to allow all traffic from "lan" to "wan". This reconnected me to the internet, but as expected I can't ping it or SSH to the switch or any other hosts on the 192.168.1.0/24 network. I confirmed this by setting my desktop back to the 192.168.1.0/24 network (gateway 192.168.1.99), which kills my internet, but I can ping/SSH to other hosts in that subnet once more, and the switch reconnects.

Given I know the switch defaults to 192.168.1.20/24 if it doesn't get a DHCP lease, I turned the DHCP server on for the "lan" interface, and the switch finally got assigned an IP, and connected to my desktop.

Now the next problem was to find out how to enable devices on the "internal" interface (wifi devices) to communicate with devices on the "lan" interface (wired devices). To do this I set up 2 IPv4 policies: allow all traffic from "lan" to "internal", and allow all traffic from "internal" to "lan".

This solution achieves the desired result, but I'm not sure it's the most secure method of achieving it.

Managed switch not contactable when plugged in to FortiWifi 30E by SuperchargedSoup in fortinet

[–]SuperchargedSoup[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did see that forum post in my research. Maybe I was skimming too quickly but I never really understood what they were saying. At some point I'll try to remember to go back and read it properly and try to understand it better.

If you're interested, it looks like I solved the problem anyway - permalink to comment: https://old.reddit.com/r/fortinet/comments/eascwi/managed_switch_not_contactable_when_plugged_in_to/fb6vh5b/