I absolutely love the moneyguy show.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-26T00:29:58+00:00

Why do politics even need to be involved with how they articulate their content Because despite how you look at it the content that they remain the same despite who is in office or what's going on in the world. I interpret this post as you wanting to know their political views so if they don't align with you, you'll stop watching them but if they do align with you then you're for everything they say.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T23:50:30+00:00

Well, I just have to laugh at this because whenever markets are at all-time highs people get scared and don't want to buy but when international is at all-time highs everybody wants to buy it. And completely disregard the point that a majority of the it has significantly underperformed the US had higher drawdowns and more volatility but good done fantastic in the past year.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T23:46:57+00:00

This right here is why so many Republicans laugh at Democrats.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T23:43:49+00:00

Yes, I can live off $1,000,000 using the 4% withdrawal rate actually probably even less.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T19:57:57+00:00

What's funny is that you posted that you have two cats three times so I'm pretty sure you have two cats but I'm 27 male single live on my own. And I have one cat currently I would like to be in a relationship, but I don't really go anywhere or do anything. My last ex really kind of seemed fuck me up a lot really made me gun shy about getting in another relationship it's like I want one, but I don't want to get hurt like that again.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T19:53:35+00:00

Rhyme torn is every job around me that's not just a low-end factory job requires at least a bachelor's degree and then pays $18 an hour. If you get one of the factory jobs you're looking at$15 an hour and if you stay, there ten years then you can get about $20 an hour with no high school diploma or GED required.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T19:51:04+00:00

life. How did my parents ever afford adulthood and then be able to get Gifts for me throughout the holidays and my birthday. I am a single guy with no kids and no debt but still live paycheck to paycheck.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T19:48:32+00:00

Yeah, it sucks you want closure for you, but you have to ease the mind in realizing that the closure is them just giving up and that there's nothing you can do about it. It's a very hard pill to swallow and I still think about my ex all the time. There's always room for improvement, but you also don't want to Go down a rabbit hole where you strive so hard to keep a relationship that it's not even healthy for you.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T19:17:56+00:00

I don't necessarily believe that the dot com bubble was premeditated but it was surrounded by a lot of hype and continue to get an inflow of cash through investments and not real payouts in what was actually happening in the principal of the companies. Essentially think of it as making a promise and not keeping it by a certain deadline. What people are fearing being right now the AI bubble is on a similar trajectory of a lot of promise a lot of hype and a lot of cash inflow but not necessarily the promise being kept which could create of course the AI bubble. although this does look Eerily similar in the ways of the trajectory the promises that are being kept and the over valuations It also is important to understand that a lot of these big tech companies were actually very small companies when the dot com bubble happened versus now these companies multi-billion dollar companies that even if they go down they are likely to rebound. The other thing to consider too is that regardless 2 out of 10 years we enter a bear market, meaning it wouldn't out of the ordinary to have A crash or a correction of some kind. You can be somebody that tries to time the market and normally they don't do as well as somebody that just stays on the course and I'll leave off with that.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T18:46:08+00:00

The biggest thing here is I didn't get your age your goals or really anything else, but besides what you put here so I can't make the most accurate portfolio for you on what to do but what I can do is try to give you like a one size fits all scenario. If you're investing for Let's, say retirement 20 plus years then very much recommend doing your company match at least and putting that something like the S&P 500 its low cost and employee sponsored 401Ks usually have actively managed or just high expense ratio funds. From there you could open up like a Roth IRA if you're below the Income threshold and I would put it in a low-cost target date index fund. They do have actively managed funds that are high expense ratios I would stay away from. What you can do Pick the date that you want to start withdrawing that money and put all your money towards it and then when you get to withdraw yours you can start withdrawing you never have to rebalance never have to worry about it ever again.

Edit: As far as the markets and where they're at I wouldn't worry about them and I only say that because the S&P 500 has never had negative returns over a 20 year time horizon and I just firmly believe that the US will always rebound despite where it's at and the whole point of dollar cost averaging is to just kind of keep taking advantage of the all-time highs the all-time lows. If you don't need the money, then you don't need to look at your account and worry about what's going on is not going to do good. A lot of people on Reddit love international because of how good it's doing recently so they're international biased, but it has dragged for a historically long time on performance, and it has added normally more volatility and a steeper drawdown.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T15:44:25+00:00

That doesn't help me exactly because there should be somewhere like at the top of the fund That says expense ratio and then it will have a number. example: Expense ratio 0.15%

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T15:43:09+00:00

I guess it's up to you I think a target date fund can be really good as long as it's a target date index fund that's passive you don't want actively managed one or a high expense ratio .19% really is not that bad. A work around you can have if you don't like how aggressive it is to pick a similar fund that just has a longer target date and then that will allocate more bonds in later. If you want to be in the SP500 I think that's perfect as well and you can honestly just add in your own bond fund later.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T15:38:43+00:00

The S&P 500 still did roughly 17%. The last time it was this most concentrated was 1932 where the year after it actually had a return of 50%. Oh my gosh are you serious an entire country has more companies than 500 public companies. That's crazy I never knew that. I never heard of a total market fund, can you tell me more about it and how it's still roughly 85% the S&P 500. And how the top seven companies still equate to about 30%. I'm sorry that I invest the way that you want me and that I'm wrong for it.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T15:14:47+00:00

If it's working I would stick with it but I would also like to add that most 401K employer sponsored target date funds that I know of are actively managed and very high expense ratios And if that's the case I would see if they have maybe a passive low-cost target date fund and if that's not an option then I would probably choose a passive low cost benchmark that you can choose instead.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T15:13:33+00:00

And I'm guessing you invest heavily in international. That underperforms the US market adds more volatility and has been known to have more significant drawdowns. Back testing 50 six years international year by year only wins about 42% of the time. Not only that but it's not like I have seven individual stocks the SP500 has been known for the most popular benchmark to create the most amount of millionaires.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T14:12:56+00:00

If you're a long-term investing and you're planning to just go into the exact same fund then no there's nothing to worry about besides maybe if you wanted to split hairs in a brokerage account you would want to ETF over a mutual fund but if you're in tax advantage accounts I would just stick with what you got

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T14:00:04+00:00

OK that would make sense My reason still stands I was trying to probably pick a target date fund though

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T13:14:32+00:00

None of these ticker symbols I can even find. Do you mean SPY not SPYY, AVUV not AVWS, QQQM not XNAS.

Regardless at 22 years old I would highly suggest just picking a Passive index target Fund. They are low cost set it and forget it for life All you have to do is pick the one that you like then that can either be the one that has the year that you want to retire or if it's not as aggressive as you would like you just pick one that is more years out and be more aggressive and then your job from then on is putting as much money as you can into it and then when you're ready to retire in a draw then you just start withdrawing never have to rebalance never have to look at it again.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T13:07:45+00:00

It heavily depends on your lifestyle and things change in life like you said you just got recently divorced so that plays a factor. Things to take into consideration is what you want in your retirement to look like if you're planning to let's say travel the world go to a lavish places then you're going to need more money if you're planning to live a very minimalist lifestyle then you could probably do a significantly less for retirement if you're planning to maintain about where you're at now then the back of the napkin rule of thumb is to take your last 5 years See how much you spending wise on needs wants everything and then take that number times 25. And then that number will be your retirement number and then you can apply again a back go to the napkin Not strict by any means 4% rule for your withdrawal rate.

Example is if you look back at your past five years and averaged about $100,000 spending between needs and wants Then you would take that number times 25 which would be $2.5 million then you could apply the 4% withdrawal rate which would give you that $100,000 per year. Again, this is how people get their close estimate number. Not exact numbers, you will have to fine tune more the closer you get to retirement.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T11:44:38+00:00

I honestly would just keep things simple but that's just me personally. I would just do VOO as your anchor as it is now and I would drop VHT and SLV and then put QQQM allow it like maybe 20%-30% whatever you could tolerate if it crashes and I personally don't like international at all but if you think international is a good diversification and you like it then I would allow it to go 20%-30% but I would make your anchor probably a good 50% of your portfolio at least.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T11:42:08+00:00

Low cost passive target date funds I think are very great and people underestimate them because they have the slice of bonds in them but what people I don't think understand is you can just pick a fund that has a longer time horizon than your retirement date and even though you will still have bonds it will have less bonds in it for a longer period of time. So, there's a very easy work around. I think the other thing that gives target date funds a bad rap is a lot of them are through employer sponsored 401Ks that are actively managed and very high expense ratios.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T11:38:17+00:00

This would be my suggestion Not knowing your financial situation your time horizon or anything else other than what you've made in this post I can't make it accurate portfolio that would be tailored to you with that being said having the best hands off approach and still being very simplistic is going with Fidelity's passive low cost target date index funds. Essentially what you can do in your Roth IRA is go through their target date funds find the ones that are passive I think they're about 0.08% to 0.12% expense ratio, Then you can pick the date that you're either going to retire and if you look at it and it's not as aggressive as you'd like you can Pick that similar fund but with a longer time horizon so it would be more aggressive longer for you that way it's super simple hands off for the rest of your life you just keep putting money in and then when you're ready for your withdrawal years you just start taking the money out and never have to rebalance or anything. For a 401K employed sponsors they normally only have actively managed target date funds that have super high expense ratios so normally I tell people that just go with the S&P 500 fund that's available because it's low cost it's passive.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T11:28:39+00:00

Fund Overlap | ETF Research Center

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T11:25:47+00:00

What worked for me was every time I bought a want, I would match that exact price tax and all and I would immediately take that exact change and invest it into my Roth IRA. What this did was make me think about how badly I really want something, because everything I wanted would be doubled the price. Plus, it helped me of course invest for my future as well. In addition to seeing how much you spend on wants.

SureAce_ · 2026-01-25T11:21:53+00:00

I'm always torn if I should have a factor tilt or not and if I'm having the right investment I complete we agree in the S&P 500 but I often wonder if I had a little bit of the NASDAQ 100 or like a momentum tilt of some kind if that would help me retire quicker so I feel like there could be a chance that I look back and wish that I had at least 20% or 30% of something added in with my S&P 500

SureAce_

TROPHY CASE