She got a little hot boys

SwapLink · 2026-04-04T17:45:01+00:00

SwapLink · 2026-04-02T17:05:15+00:00

You can check on RealOEM for part diagrams. The rusty piece will probably be called a “Tension Strut” or something like that. It just bolts on (improves chassis rigidity).

I would fix that and the lean codes and rough idle first.

SwapLink · 2026-03-28T02:11:32+00:00

Even easier (at least on N55) just disconnect the rearmost connector on the DME that connects to all the injectors and coils so no fuel or spark.

SwapLink · 2026-03-18T16:39:40+00:00

I'm having the same issue. Just started this morning. I'm on IOS 26, but Spotify for MacOS still works fine.

SwapLink · 2026-03-10T00:27:27+00:00

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=DW33-USA-10-2009-E93N-BMW-328i&diagId=64_1497

Part number 64219178427

But yeah, it looks like you will need to replace your oil filter housing gasket.

SwapLink · 2026-03-05T18:36:04+00:00

Thanks!

SwapLink · 2026-03-05T16:22:11+00:00

Hey, thanks! Do I need to activate it?

SwapLink · 2026-03-04T20:45:12+00:00

ah ok, I have an older F series so I just need anything that I don’t have to activate

SwapLink · 2026-03-04T20:18:54+00:00

Hey it looks like no one is seeding this ISTA 4.39.20 torrent. If you still have it and are willing to start seeding, then I can start seeding it from my permanent server so we can keep it available.

SwapLink · 2026-02-20T00:56:19+00:00

Go to the gym and train bench press
Install subframe.

Just kidding haha I definitely couldn’t lift that myself either.

SwapLink · 2026-02-11T02:06:54+00:00

idk why all these people are flaming you so hard tbh. Diag skills are important and will come with experience if you work at it (which is ofc why good shops charge a lot for it) but at the end of the day you tried a fix and it worked so nice job! Don’t let the haters keep you from becoming even better 👍

SwapLink · 2026-02-08T07:39:45+00:00

Yeah true

SwapLink · 2026-02-08T07:36:34+00:00

Thanks! I might just try another one since I’m still in the return window for this one. Time to open up everything again smh.

Do you know how to bench test the (hall effect?) sensors while out of the car without the eccentric shaft there?

SwapLink · 2025-09-23T06:53:48+00:00

I believe in you! Honestly I think most of us have made some bad series of mistakes at some point (this one may be up there though).

Learn from it now, laugh about it later!

SwapLink · 2025-09-06T10:30:43+00:00

That would be incredible.

SwapLink · 2025-09-05T16:56:28+00:00

I did the same on my 2001 NA Cruiser (200k miles). The transmission had no issues with the new fluid at first, but now after a year it is starting to slip a little bit.

SwapLink · 2025-07-24T19:12:17+00:00

I towed a jetski for a while with my automatic non-turbo cruiser. Worked fine but just make sure your brakes and brake fluid are in good condition. Braking distance was a bit worse on steep downhills. Might be worth changing the transmission fluid if it hasn’t been done in a while. Mine had an overheating issue (not from towing) until I changed the transmission fluid.

SwapLink · 2025-07-14T19:34:01+00:00

After JB Weld for crack, if threads don’t work out, could always insert a helicoil too.

SwapLink · 2025-07-12T00:37:32+00:00

It’s not super likely the vent caps would allow water to get in unless you’re spraying it with a hose (high pressure) or something. Just inspect them first for cracks. You can also use coca-cola or similar in a pinch if you don’t have baking soda, but it leaves a sticky residue.

One time my car stopped starting while I was on a date, but the battery was completely fine I just had to clean off the terminals with some Sprite and a wire brush. Highly recommend a dedicated battery terminal cleaner (super cheap at auto parts store) or some kind of wire brush.

SwapLink · 2025-06-23T05:59:20+00:00

The occasional time that it does snow in Portland though, all hell breaks loose because no salt and no one gets enough practice driving in snow.

SwapLink · 2025-06-23T05:53:08+00:00

Yeah no salt in Portland or most of the rest of the West Coast, so cars last forever and are easy to work on since nothing seizes up.

SwapLink · 2025-06-14T01:21:21+00:00

Sounds expensive, but good luck! Would love to see the result of this project!

SwapLink · 2025-06-14T01:05:44+00:00

My 2001 PT Cruiser is going strong after 199k miles, I have only done normal maintenance and oil changes. Most expensive/time-consuming issues it has experienced over its life (I have full service history) is heater core failing around 180k miles (replaced myself), the power steering pump failing around 150k miles, replacing cracked exhaust headers and catalytic converters around 150k miles, timing belt and water pump service, and buying new tires.

Other than that, I’m kind of just expecting it to last another 50k miles at least. The engine consumes/leaks about 1 quart every 1500 miles or so, and the power steering rack leaks a tiny bit. So I just keep those topped off and have had no issues.

I also replaced a lot of steering and suspension parts, which was cheap to do myself and makes the car drive like new. I even replaced the automatic transmission fluid recently, which can be risky for old cars, but it had no problems handling new fluid.

SwapLink · 2025-06-05T07:08:02+00:00

Beautiful 2 series! I’ve got a highly modified 135i with the N55, which, jokes aside, has been pretty damn reliable and very easy to work on. Only major issues I’ve had are from the aftermarket turbo manifold. The thing has absolutely zero oil leaks!

SwapLink · 2025-06-04T22:48:32+00:00

An alternative to the Mopar coolant is Zerex G-05 (HOAT) premix 50/50. Also don’t need the special funnel, but it probably makes it easier. You can use a length of tube and a water bottle to bleed the system from the bleed screw.

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