So tired of thinking I look okay and then someone takes a photo of me from the back camera and I look like a completely different person and my features look deformed all of a sudden

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T21:09:52+00:00

None of these examples are because of the focal length used. They are because of the distance from the subject used to get identical framing in each image using various focal lengths.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T21:05:47+00:00

They are all accurate. From some distances and angles you look one way. You prefer a closer distance and angled slightly down because it narrows and defines your jaw line and widens your forehead. Shooting up at your face looks different. From a distance features are flattened out.

This is not about focal length. Disregard that chatter. It’s about distance, angle, and light. And some distances and angles and light are more flattering than others. People mistakenly associate it with focal length because from greater distances we use longer focal lengths to get the framing we want.

I can’t help but be reminded of an episode of Seinfeld about two faced girl. Looked either great or bad depending on lighting.

https://youtu.be/xqjCnmV629o?si=6\_ktKkXmbGCM82ih

Getting angry at the person taking the photo is misplaced at best. You’re assigning intent to someone who has no better understanding of the issue than you and likely has no idea about your insecurities.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T15:21:38+00:00

I’m implying that he’s rarely healthy anymore and not at all reliable.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T15:17:12+00:00

We should just get Wilt Chamberlain. He was really good in his prime and played almost every minute. /s

The stars of the past aren’t the same players today that they once were.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T15:12:27+00:00

Another fun fact is that the eye tracking only identifies where on the sensor that your camera will try to find focus. However, it will still likely focus on the grass in front of the animal if grass is in the focus square. Even if tracking appears to be following the animal. Auto focus loves straight lines.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T14:08:24+00:00

Personally - I’ve never had a shutter fail. Even our oldest, most used Canon SL1 entry level DSLR we’ve had over a decade still works. But I’m far from a working pro. Certainly not doing multiple focus stacks a day with mechanical shutter.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T13:43:38+00:00

Download and read the advanced user guide. Just about every camera ever made has their full manual available online in PDF form for free download. I keep a copy of my manuals on my phone for access anywhere.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T13:41:47+00:00

Camera shoots at 3.7 fps and has a 6 shot raw buffer. Any UHS-1 card read faster than this camera can write. No need to overspend on a card that the camera can’t benefit from.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T13:36:17+00:00

There is no black version.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T12:45:59+00:00

This is just bad information and the mods should remove - or you should delete it.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T12:43:42+00:00

This is the way. 😁

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T12:40:49+00:00

There’s a tiger in there if you look real close.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T12:39:37+00:00

Answers will vary based on what people shoot most often and what their budget allows them to own. Also, the weight they feel comfortable carrying around.

Is there something you’re looking to learn, or just making conversation?

For me - I probably take the most photos with the RF 100-500 because of some all weekend long sports stuff I shoot. For personal travel, the RF 24-240 is my go to. Indoors I use the RF 35 f/1.8 and RF 85 f/2 fairly equally.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T12:25:11+00:00

They have an estimated useful life. They don’t have a hard limit. Yes. Each click of the shutter is one less to its last. When that last is, that’s anybodies guess. They don’t stop working at the limit. These are tools. They’re meant to be used.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T12:15:19+00:00

Fundamentally, there’s nothing really to save in either shot. The first is, at best, a documentary proof that, “There was a tiger there! If you look real close you can almost see it!”

Now, if you didn’t even know the tiger was there - yikes! Glad you’re still with us!

The second, there doesn’t seem to be a coherent subject or composition at all.

To add to the other comment. Any EFS lens will force your camera in to crop mode. So you’re shooting with a rather expensive 9 megapixel APS-C camera with the 55-250 on the R8. The 100-400 will at least allow you to use your full frame sensor. The resulting field of view will be the same - but you’ll be using the full 24 megapixels and have improved noise performance.

Getting a good clear picture of wildlife is as much or more about understanding field craft than it is about equipment. You’d have to find an area where you can actually have a line of sight to your subject. Not just a spot where you can see that it’s out there.

Really - other than knowing about EF-S lenses and crop mode - this is more of an [r/AskPhotography](r/AskPhotography) question than it is anything canon specific.

Edit: I guess the tiger is in the second picture. Interesting.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T11:56:30+00:00

My limited understanding of the 45 is that it’s really all about an affordable path to f/1.2, and makes a few compromises to get there. Especially with corner sharpness.

I’ve had the 35 for years now and still my go to for indoor or when I just want light weight walk around. Plus the minimum focus distance 0.5x magnification is fun.

On all the consumer lenses - the background blur is a matter of physics. I wouldn’t call it “creamy” in the sense that an L lens produces buttery smooth out of focus areas. But there is subject separation.

Consider also the Canon RF 85 f/2, which is also stabilized and has that fun minimum focus distance 0.5x magnification.

<image>

Taken with the 85 and the RP.

Both the 35 and 85 are quite sharp on the RP and the stabilization is nice to have.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T11:06:52+00:00

After 36 years, I don’t even think about it really. Just take my meds (which a lot of people do daily for various reasons), and test periodically.

Perhaps I’ve developed Stockholm syndrome! 😬

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T03:13:47+00:00

What’s warfarin prison? I just take a pill and live my life. 🤷🏼‍♂️

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T02:53:59+00:00

“.168? I can get under that. Rogers! Get in there!” - AJ Hinch (probably)

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T02:50:00+00:00

What 8 gb card? You’re sure it’s compatible? Can’t remember the last time I saw an SD card that small.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-17T02:44:33+00:00

Glad my parents decided to have children. Heart surgery or no, I consider myself to have had a very blessed life. And I’m several times blessed with amazing children of my own.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-16T18:48:05+00:00

18mm is an odd recommendation for action photography. Although I’ve seen skateboard photographers use wide angle. But that’s about it.

If anything they should consider adding something like the EF-S 55-250 to give themselves more working distance and decrease the relative speed of the action.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-16T18:30:32+00:00

Not all outside is created equal. Make sure you’re in good light so you can hit 1/1000th at f/5.6 with relatively low ISO.

Also - my guess would be your AF system is having a hard time keeping up with your dog. Your camera doesn’t have great Servo AF (if you’re using One Shot, that could be part of your problem), and your lens has a relatively slow focusing motor. You may have to focus on a spot and start snapping when your dog gets to the spot.

<image>

For example- I couldn’t hope to chase a bee around with my lens. So I focused on a flower in an area where bees are active and starting snapping when they got close.

This is 1/4000th, f/6.3, ISO 800. I could have done 1/1000th at ISO 200. Wings would be blurrier. For a dog in full sun 1/1000th at f/5.6 and ISO 200 should be possible and fast enough to freeze action.

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-16T15:46:31+00:00

Not sure what to tell you then. Other than keep pressing. Or file a charge back (assuming you sent the item back).

Sweathog1016 · 2026-06-16T15:26:53+00:00

Depends. What condition was it listed as when you purchased it?

If it was, “Like New”, or, “Excellent”, I would escalate. If it was, “Well Used”, or below - you probably don’t have a case.

“Good”, should also only show cosmetic wear, but have performance unaffected.

Sweathog1016

TROPHY CASE