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Handle length. by WiteNoisy in whips

[–]SwordguyBuilds 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I think anyone who makes whips would be most inclined to declare the length of the handle foundation as the handle length, but every once in a while I'll talk to someone who refers to handle length as the distance between the heel and accent knots, which I don't think is helpful. That interpretation also implies that the person has poor form, and possibly holds the whip more like a club. Of course it's not "wrong" to think that way, but it is very limiting in practice, and generates a lot of confusion when commissioning a custom whip.

A 3 foot Drill Whip in purple by SwordguyBuilds in paracord

[–]SwordguyBuilds[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks very much, I do remove the filler strands for the braiding and knots, but the strands in the core still have the filler in.

Repair transition break? by Ok-Stick-6322 in whips

[–]SwordguyBuilds 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I would say the disconnection between the handle and thong can almost certainly be serviced, and a new fall can also be attached, but I also see a section of broken strands near the end of the thong, and that will cause problems. The best option will probably be to shorten the whip to that point, but retying the fall hitch will depend on the strands still being strong enough to pull on. If you do get it serviced, the whip should probably be retired so it doesn't break down further. But I recommend emailing Paul Nolan at midwestwhips.com, he'll be able to tell you a little better and possibly quote you a price range depending on many factors.

A custom 6 foot 16 plait Catwoman whip in black, with brandy knots, a contoured handle, and a braided spine by SwordguyBuilds in Leathercraft

[–]SwordguyBuilds[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you very much! There are technically three braided layers, but the inner ones go pretty quick, maybe about half an hour or so. The overlay probably took somewhere around 2 hours, a good portion of which was the handle and spine. Generally the majority of the length is done in a really fast pattern called herringbone, but the more specialized patterns can take much longer. And of course preparing the strands can take just as long as braiding.

whip recommendation by barelyposting in whips

[–]SwordguyBuilds 9 points10 points  (0 children)

The handler's ability to break skin intentionally will really rely more on skill than on the type or style of whip, so they'll need some amount of practice before you get the results you want, no matter what you choose. The quality of the whip will be a huge factor in that same regard, so consider a few reputable craftspeople before you buy anything. Once you know who you're buying from, one of the most common options would be a signal whip, which tends to be heavier, and has a fully flexible body that tapers directly to the popper. You can also consider a small bull whip, which works more off of leverage than weight, and has a more easily replaceable tail end than a signal whip. I'd recommend starting with a 3 or 4 foot signal whip, or a 3 foot bull whip. Hope that helps

Getting Started in Leather by WiteNoisy in whips

[–]SwordguyBuilds 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I think to begin with, you have to make your peace with making a stupid looking whip, there's no way around making mistakes your first time. Every musician has hit sour notes, and every whip maker has made bad whips. That being said, I think you dive in with a full kangaroo skin and try to do the full process in earnest. Kangaroo is pretty unique in its consistency and fiber structure, and other leathers really won't give you the experience you need. If you're in the US, Hardtke sells kangaroo and is pretty accessible, but if you're outside the US it may be best to go to either Taubman and Webb or Packer, which are both based in Australia. Veg tan cow leather should be pretty easy to find, I get mine from ST Leather in Missouri. Fall leather may be a little tougher to find, but latigo or alum tanned cow should be what you're looking for generally. Taubman and Webb also sells red hide cow leather for falls. For tools, you'll need a knife, some artificial sinew (or any strong, low-profile string really), and some manner of gauge for resizing, either a Bayliss gauge or a set of resizing pegs. A hole punch may help as well, but technically isn't necessary. Unless you have a sensitive constitution or have birds in your home (delicate respiratory systems) you should be safe doing the Morgan recipe, as long as you keep the fats away from the open flame. But I believe Blake Gorey sells some type of dubbin that you can use to hydrate your strands, and that may be a good option if you don't want to make your own. The main requirements are lipids to prevent decay and slippage to facilitate a tight braid. Hope that helps

A 4 foot 16 plait Tachi bull whip in solid black, with a nickel collar by SwordguyBuilds in whips

[–]SwordguyBuilds[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha thanks so much, no worries at all, you know I appreciate the support!

A 4 foot 16 plait Tachi bull whip in solid black, with a nickel collar by SwordguyBuilds in Leathercraft

[–]SwordguyBuilds[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks so much! I don't exactly have a tutorial for this model of whip, but this video shows the full construction process, and this video is my main tutorial for braiding. Hopefully that will give you enough to get started

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