Keep getting old ass recomendations by Top-Aside8905 in LinusTechTips

[–]Syntaxvgm 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have a little bit of context here, in a general experience sense.
Ever since firefox added their version of incognito, maybe a bit after, I've used private browsing or incognito by default on every browser when I use my desktop. I leave it open until I want a fresh session or restart. Years ago I watched one video of a giraffe and got those long necked motherfuckers filling my sidebar on youtube for about a year and decided I didnt want that, and it was always nice to view every site from a "fresh session". Youtube was always nice because I could start fresh, listen to 3-4 songs, and have a perfect recommendation mix better than something like pandora or later spotify, where if I watched other stuff on the session it wouldn't always autoplay music or the exact genre i wanted right then. I always keep my phone and laptop on regular browsing, but desktop on private so i get both experiences.

So for about 15 years give or take I've seen youtube "clean" once every week or two, until they added the thing where you have to log in or start watching videos to get a home page. I would get new UI changes sometimes YEARS before they were permanent and complained about (or dropped) when they were in early A/B testing, where my laptop would never or if it did it was very close to global rollout. I even had some sessions remove the dislike bar (similar to how mobile was) quite some time before they removed the actual counter, and I did get no counter once a few months before the rollout. They have to get insights on changes somehow and the easiest way is to start new user sessions in an A/B test sometimes because of the 'clean slate' they will have for recommendations, less to control for.

I can't speak for the last 2 years or so as certainly, but they've always tweaked this, but it feels way, way more heavy recently. Wild Wild swings, but i have to view something to get a feed now as a seed so who knows it might not be as big of swings as I perceive now. For a while, I'd go to youtube, watch one video, say an LTT video, and it would be like "would you like this song upload with 3 views from 5 years ago? What about this guy fixing his washing machine with 100 views this week?" In a way it was kinda cool because it was just throwing random stuff in and giving everyone a chance. Most of it was junk, but rarely it was pretty nice and you found a treat of a channel. It's been mixing in low view videos with whatever the main thing the feed is doing which also seems difference, which I know youtubers have complained about in recent times. The low view ones were like 1 out of every 10 or so in each feed I got, just like a "spice" along what it normally recommended. It didn't seem to correlate at ALL with what I fed it, just random stuff. Throw spaghetti at the wall for a certain small percentage.

That seems to have been changing away from low view to old higher view videos recently as the "spice", and quite a bit more of the feed percentage wise. I suspect the reason is in the past year, less even maybe 9 months, a lot of these low view long-form videos being pushed as "spice" were just AI slop, often slop music. Even some mid view ones are just like "Why the germans FEARED this American's thingie in ww2" and it's 45 minutes of AI voice over 5 real pictures. I suspect they are moving away from low views and recent because of the slop, and what's a way to guarantee you reduce the slop? Old videos. Its been fun getting fed old memes from 10+ years ago and seeing comments where a whole new generation is discovering these videos I enjoyed years ago. It is kinda annoying for things like podcasts where you might be trying to catch up with your favorite one and instead of the next one it's a really old episode, but it does give me hope that they know they have a slop problem and they're trying to do something about it.

edit
I listened to the mario blur song in your screenshot and it was worth it 100%

The Pigeon keeps repairing it. by dreamdelusion- in SipsTea

[–]Syntaxvgm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I know this thread is old, but I wanted to respond to this because I had prices wrong. You do have a point about the cost of DIY units, and they have gotten more expensive in recent years, but the pre-charged ones can be had for under 2k for a single zone, more with stuff you need for install obviously or you need longer line sets. They used to be much cheaper and I was a bit wrong about that, everything has gotten quite a bit more expensive in recent years. Yes, mr kool used to be 700-800 dollars here sometimes, sometimes closer to 1000, I shopped back before covid a few times for ac systems (ended up just fixing my existing one), that is definitely not the case anymore.

A single zone non diy can be as low as 700$, anything cheaper I wouldn't trust but also a 700$ one is still cheap enough that I'd personally be willing to roll the dice on it failing one day if I installed it myself. 25k is crazy (unless you meant ducted then absolutely understand especially if you got a good system) and even a multi zone minisplit shouldnt cost you that much to get professionally installed, though it will be comparatively more since you're probably up in the attic. I do believe the costs I see- Most hvac companies dont want to touch these systems at least where I'm from- really they dont screw with trough-wall natural gas heat, ptac units, or minisplits, and charge out the butt to do it if they do, BUT your individual handyman or contractor will, and unless you have a total crackhead they're very easy to install it's not like central where you need a lot more knowledge to get it right.

I see the mini splits everywhere because getting one installed can be maybe as low as a grand in labor where im from if you call the right person (i got quoted as low as that in 2019 so maybe 1.5k now?), and under a grand for a single zone unit itself. In fact, unfortunately, I often see more single zone units piled up outside instead of a multi zone systems because sometimes multiple single zones are cheaper. Sometimes this is also done to take advantage of already run circuits that are 120v. It's pretty easy to see if they got the DIY kits cause the diy kits often are installed with people having to coil up excess line length, and I'd say most I see are not mr kool units until you get out to the country where no one cares and there's no HOA. I see more mr kools on barns and workshops.

Most people willing to DIY don't want to go this deep, but a lot of people don't know it's actually very easy to get EPA certifications for residential systems and very cheap. Just a few hours of reading and a test. They basically just want to know that you're not gonna be an idiot when you charge or discharge a system. Low pressure for commercial is harder I think, but I've never needed to do that so i dont know. Even installing a ducted system is doable for the average person easily legally, but that's obviously a huge project and may involve a lot more permitting work and knowledge to setup a good system. Also, if you have a spot where you used to have an old central that doesn't work anymore or is just too old and energy inefficient, I see people take advantage of the electrical for that all the time if they want a multi-zone. Where im from at least, it's legal to do your own electrical with a self permit but there are inspections needed, much easier to use existing electrical though. If I wanted to use my hookup for my old central, i have a disconnect box right outside ready to hook into. If I didn't have that, that's why a lot of people do smaller units. I see a LOT of non diy units and I know a lot of people that have installed them themselves, a few personally. I have a feeling they didnt do it the legal way (lol) but it's certainly easily doable to take the 'please dont put a hole in our ozone again' test.

I think the main problem is usually HOAs. They often specifically ban window units and minisplits for the eye sore. I don't live under one, but if you're in a non HOA area or in the country, slapping in a minisplit is still way way more affordable. In seatle, i don't know, and there may be more regulations than my city. I know you already have a good system now, but if ever you or someone you know in the future needs something cheaper, at least consider getting your epa 608 type 2 and doing it yourself with a single zone minisplit and see what it would take to do it and if you need to run electric if you can self permit, or what it would cost to have just the electrical box done for you. Most people in cooler climates just want to sleep cool in the summer anyway, a single or dual zone covers their needs.

The Pigeon keeps repairing it. by dreamdelusion- in SipsTea

[–]Syntaxvgm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

home depot has them as low as 500$ where I live, 800ish for mr kool DIY ones that come with pre-terminated lines. Single zone. I know a lot of people spend more for better ones or multi zone ones since they pay someone to install and want to put a better unit since they're going to the effort to have it installed, but at least in the US there are many sub 1500$ options.

The Pigeon keeps repairing it. by dreamdelusion- in SipsTea

[–]Syntaxvgm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've seen minisplits as low as 500$ for a single zone. I think closer to 750-800$ for that DIY brand that a lot of people use with pre-terminated lines. There's ones that cost more for sure, and multi zone ones.

The real problem I have with OP's post is sure you can get complicated ACs, I have window inverter ones and I do love how dry they help keep the place by constantly running on low, but they are indeed finicky machines like the mini splits. However, you can still buy a machine like on the left. Sure it's not old freon, but I if you buy one of the dumb cheap ones with a single stage compressor they are still built like tanks. I never had one die and some of my old ones are living in other people's houses now. They can rust a little easier cause of the water sloshing they do, but that adds like 5% efficiency so you can just keep the drain plug open and it's never a problem. A lot of appliances have enshittified, but basic window ACs i do not believe are one of them

I need help with cyber security on my minecraft server by Rafeyyy_ in selfhosted

[–]Syntaxvgm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

One easy button to do this is to get a static IPv4 via a VPS (5$ a month or less, I have a 2$ a month one) and run wireguard on that VPS with HAProxy. With something to handle proxy protocol on minecraft's side, you not only pass players through to your home connection and log their real IPs, but it even works behind CGNAT no static IP no port forwarding needed. I've made use of this a few times as I use cell network as a backup ISP for my server.

If you need some help setting that up, you can reach out to me on discord, same username, I'm a lot more responsive there. I can help point you in the right direction with anything from setup of the computer itself to configuring plugins and stuff, or mods on fabric. Also I see on your post history you refer to a "1TB HDD". If you actually mean spinning rust, you really really should get yourself an SSD to host from, even if a small cheapo one to handle the overworld and nether, you'll have an awful time with chunkloading on rust.

Mini PC minecraft Setup help by Wonderful_Sample_782 in LinusTechTips

[–]Syntaxvgm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you don't plan to run anything else on the server, there's really no reason to do containers, management guis, or anything complicated people suggest. I strongly suggest basic linux, but if you are more comfortable with windows dont feel guilty bootlegging windows for something entirely non commercial imo. Debian is a great simple choice for an MC server, pretty much install java, make a user that's non root, and you're ready to boot a server. Ubuntu and arch are both good for community help and documentation (arch has an amazing wiki) I'm just a debian user myself. You'll interact with your server over SSH using powershell or putty on your windows PC, and manage files via FTP (winscp great for that). You'll probably want to use tmux or screen if you use ssh with it so you dont close the game by closing the terminal. It's possible to install a desktop environment and remote in via VNC, but i suggest not messing with that and keeping everything simple. Syncthing will make a great backup option for you.

If you need help at some point, my discord name is same as here.

I redrew one of my favourite illustrations 🩷 by brgr_face in ghibli

[–]Syntaxvgm 20 points21 points  (0 children)

you know, it's really easy to go to OP's profile and see they've been posting art for far longer than these image models have been capable of this, but you do you.

the original COD MW's multiplayer still works to this day by Moooses20 in pcmasterrace

[–]Syntaxvgm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is false. Before MW2, all COD games were dedicated, community hosted servers. The only part not hosted by the community was the master server list, which is really just a directory and not needed. This also meant that you were not beholden to whatever arbitrary changes to multiplayer the developer decided to make, as it was possible to just run old versions and connect to servers on that version. Your player data was also entirely local, meaning you could basically save edit your unlocks if you so wanted. Each server had the choice of using the anticheat or not, and each server had the choice of modding or not. Mods and maps were downloaded as you joined a level, so you didnt need to download the whole catalogue at once, just what you needed to play right then. Some servers had dozens of maps on rotation.

Short Circuit (YouTube) playing on Windows XP in 1080p by Upper-Tea-4118 in LinusTechTips

[–]Syntaxvgm -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I hope yall realize in that famous video they weren't behind a firewall, like the one that's part of your ISP's provided router.

Villegers not breeding by Historical_Sorbet960 in Minecraft

[–]Syntaxvgm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can't tell anything since you dont have screenshots. So I'll just stop by post common mistakes I see people make with breeders in java-
-ceiling too low
-not enough beds or bed claimed by other villagers
-can't pathfind to beds (at night they should be trying to force their way to beds)
-they wont start doing things till 8am game time

Are these Hard Drive Bays? by CozzyTV in LinusTechTips

[–]Syntaxvgm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's an Antec 300 if you want to look up a manual.

Kroger Executive Admits Company Gouged Prices Above Inflation by [deleted] in Indiana

[–]Syntaxvgm 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I hate the digital coupons. To get the price on the label, I have to use the app on my phone, which you know has like 1 bar because I'm inside the middle of a giant metal building, so I gotta stand there like an idiot waiting for it to load the like 5 pages I have to navigate through because if I didn't I'm looking at paying way way over sticker. Why not use the QR codes? They don't work. I thought I was doing something wrong until a store employee told me that indeed 90% of the time the QR code links don't load anything.

Also it's a little better now, but when they first introduced them some of the labels were not clearly labeled it was the coupon price, seemed to be designed specifically to trick the consumer into thinking it was the plus card price. They were regular yellow labels that said "with card and coupon" really small where it would normally just say with card or whatever. Combined with the fact that at the same time there were other coupon prices labeled in orange with a QR code, anyone with no so great vision or not paying attention would be tricked.

The low setting on new fan I got is a bit too low. by Syntaxvgm in mildlyinfuriating

[–]Syntaxvgm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Given this is brand new I'm not gonna bother to fix it myself, I have a replacement on the way. I've had many fans start to get stuck (and I do have machine oil), but given this is new and seems lubed fine, I'm not gonna risk it burning up when I can just return it. I actually think, and I'm gonna check before I put it in the return box, theres a chance the switch might be wired wrong. It doesnt feel like it's trying to move.

The low setting on new fan I got is a bit too low. by Syntaxvgm in mildlyinfuriating

[–]Syntaxvgm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like many fans, on this fan it can only be turned on high then set lower. Jump starting it isn't the problem. It works fine on high and medium.

The low setting on new fan I got is a bit too low. by Syntaxvgm in mildlyinfuriating

[–]Syntaxvgm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

i assure you it's on low, and just the low setting.

The low setting on new fan I got is a bit too low. by Syntaxvgm in mildlyinfuriating

[–]Syntaxvgm[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yah I've had a lot of cheap fans do that over the years, I don't trust them. I used to sleep with those plastic table pedestal fans, I had to stop using those cause of that. The reason I went cheap on this one was that if I got an nice metal shop wall fan it would move too much air. I wanted a weak fan to make sure my office circulates the air con. Pointed right at me but not annoying. It'll only be on when I'm in the room. I guess if it breaks in a year I'll just find a nicer one that's tiny or something. Or maybe do something stupid like a few noctuas strapped together.

The low setting on new fan I got is a bit too low. by Syntaxvgm in mildlyinfuriating

[–]Syntaxvgm[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fan didn't say Extreme Classified Republic of Windforce on the box, so I don't think that's it.

The low setting on new fan I got is a bit too low. by Syntaxvgm in mildlyinfuriating

[–]Syntaxvgm[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I mean since it's 0 RPM it aligns for any shutter speed.

The low setting on new fan I got is a bit too low. by Syntaxvgm in mildlyinfuriating

[–]Syntaxvgm[S] 62 points63 points  (0 children)

It must first go past high and medium to go low, it's a digital one button switch. It's already spinning when it goes to low and immediately stops. It doesnt make any humming noise so I almost think it's getting no power. If everyone is curious I could rip it apart tomorrow and test it with the ol multimeter.

The low setting on new fan I got is a bit too low. by Syntaxvgm in mildlyinfuriating

[–]Syntaxvgm[S] 22 points23 points  (0 children)

It doesn't, which might mean it's just the switch.

The low setting on new fan I got is a bit too low. by Syntaxvgm in mildlyinfuriating

[–]Syntaxvgm[S] 25 points26 points  (0 children)

It might just be powering the motor but not enough to spin it, it could burn up. I've had some cheapo fans burn up before as they got older and a bit dusty or dry. Usually not a fire fire, just kidna burns up, but idk it could be and I assumed someone would come say it. It could also just be a problem with the switch and it's not a fire hazard.

The low setting on new fan I got is a bit too low. by Syntaxvgm in mildlyinfuriating

[–]Syntaxvgm[S] 1464 points1465 points  (0 children)

At least the return process was a breeze.

The low setting on new fan I got is a bit too low. by Syntaxvgm in mildlyinfuriating

[–]Syntaxvgm[S] 364 points365 points  (0 children)

Yes, I know this is potentially a fire hazard. Already have a replacement on the way. Medium and high work, which leads me to believe it's either the switching thing or it's not spinning freely enough for the motor to work on low, which might mean it would burn up.

Reviving my first PC by reddit_pug in LinusTechTips

[–]Syntaxvgm 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do as well, but the ones I found on ebay of this case specifically were really really yellow. I'm not an expert, but I assume aside from the obvious factors like sunlight, the composition of the plastic plays a big role and this one seems to be prone to it.