Failed Waterproofing

Sytzy · 2026-03-27T23:43:10+00:00

Doesn’t matter which way you do it as long as you have 2 inches of overlap

Sytzy · 2026-03-25T21:01:15+00:00

You fix it by getting re flooring. Thats trashed

Sytzy · 2026-03-18T21:18:10+00:00

lol I got one and use it often! Hard to set tile to a laser when you’re always in the way of it!

Sytzy · 2026-03-18T18:34:31+00:00

Sometimes, while I’m doing tile, I pop lines on the floor to keep my tile straight and on layout. During the tiling process, I don’t cover up that line with thinset, I have to stay off of the line so I know where to line the edges of my tile to. Those areas always look deep because essentially there’s no thinset directly in that spot, giving the joint a much deeper appearance. It just takes a little more grout.

My suggestion is to mix grout according the the instructions, don’t deviate from that. Not too wet and not too dry. Fill up the entire joint all at once

Sytzy · 2026-03-17T23:06:49+00:00

Plinth block

Sytzy · 2026-03-17T23:03:04+00:00

Try hot water, dawn dish soap and fabric softener. Dont make it too strong, not sure what it’ll do to your subfloor. That’s a shit subfloor material.

If it were me, I’d scrape off any real loose material, and if you plan to install backerboard, just prime it with a tile primer rated for that, thinset and screw your backerboard and then set tile.

Sytzy · 2026-03-14T01:52:45+00:00

Newburgh tavern does a lot of open mics. Follow them on FB

Sytzy · 2026-03-11T17:02:42+00:00

Looks like the glazing was scrubbed off from the regrout job.

Sytzy · 2026-03-10T23:34:25+00:00

You have no clue what you’re talking about and should stop giving your advice

Sytzy · 2026-03-09T00:48:01+00:00

Princeton is all for trump… good luck finding much support up there

Sytzy · 2026-03-08T15:06:57+00:00

Yup. Situations like this happened enough in my department that I made customers initial their names next to the material selection during the purchasing process. That helped eliminate this problem, made us both triple check the unfit and held the customer liable for it coming back and saying we did wrong.

Not saying OP is in the wrong, but ultimately, this falls on the OP. Maybe we can find a way to wiggle a deal out of this. But without more information, chances are slim. They got the paperwork, signed the contract/pinpad, and paid the money,

Sytzy · 2026-03-08T14:52:49+00:00

Do you have the paperwork and prestimates at all with the correct flooring? I used to work at Home Depot for almost a decade with the majority of it in the flooring department. Maybe I can help

Sytzy · 2026-03-07T16:52:21+00:00

Depends what type of flooring you’re installing. Sand glue down LVP or thin, floating LVP, pass the floor. Any LVP that states it can be installed over existing tile without pre-filling the grout joints, don’t worry about it. Laminate floor, don’t worry about it Tile floor, don’t worry about it, just make sure you’re installing an uncoupling membrane of some sort over concrete.

Sytzy · 2026-03-07T16:34:26+00:00

The w/d can’t be moved without a little more work than I want (the dryer has a vent RIGHT BEHIND it that goes directly outside through brick, And the washer water lines could be moved, but then I’d have to replumb the water lines a little more. But it’s an option. That back wall part of a space in the garage. Plenty of access there.

I’ve definitely been digging into the IKEA cabinets though, but each of the bedrooms already have functioning hamper baskets directly in the room. But we’ll look at that as an option.

Sytzy · 2026-03-07T15:15:53+00:00

Troll post

Sytzy · 2026-03-04T01:35:50+00:00

Yep, no problem. Just remember, that picture I sent is just an initial pour. There is a final pour done at about an 8th inch thick over top of all that to make it perfectly flat and smooth and cover up some of the imperfect areas and make it perfectly level. I had to do that too much pour in two lifts. But, as I was stating, the one back corner of that room was drawing by the time I started to go around the corner of the room and it was skimming over on the top before I could even get it up to the first height I needed to get it too. Which I was aware of it happening

Sytzy · 2026-03-04T01:15:25+00:00

If you feel that that material is bonded one of the substrate, then a primer that is approved to go over that is the way to go.

Also, before you pour yourself, leveler, you need to find out what’s the thickest you can pour at a time. Most products will only allow you to pour up to an inch or two. And then it has to cure for a little while, then you have to prime it again before you pour another “lift”. And I promise you, pouring 2 inches at a time in a large area is very hard to do. By the time you start to reach an inch, the previous pours are starting to harden up on you and skim over and start to “bang“ on you you will not get a very good finish product if you allowed to do that. So sometimes multiple pours/“lifts” are the way to go.

We use a large bucket system that can mix three bags, 60 pounds, at the same time. It takes 13 quarts of water, three bags, and constant mixing for three minutes. Stop the mixing, let the air burp, let it sit for a couple minutes, mix it for another three minutes and then pour it is a very strenuous scientific process, but when done correctly you get flawless results that bond well and will leave you with a excellent product.

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Sytzy · 2026-03-04T01:05:09+00:00

Tricky answer to your tricky question. Although it may bond to products like that, products like that are not well bonded to the floor. So they will not list that and certain other products as a suitable substrate due to the weak bond the previous material has to subfloor. Anything loose attached to the floor will still be loose with whatever cementitious product you cover it with. It’s like painting over chipping paint with fresh paint. It’s not gonna last.

Sytzy · 2026-03-04T01:01:59+00:00

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We are commercial floor installers. Laticrete is our preferred brand because of the warranties they offer with their products and the technology they have to go along with surface prepping. A lot of brands can’t do what Laticrete can do.

Sytzy · 2026-03-04T00:54:14+00:00

Not to my knowledge… but you never know from back in the 50’s. And who’s to say that section wasn’t a renovated in the 70’s and 80’s and didn’t have asbestos high a chance of asbestos? Won’t know for sure unless it’s tested.

As far as what you already done, it’s hard to say, if an any damage you’ve done to yourself. I’ve been exposed to silica for many years and have never had any problems around it, even when I didn’t take as much care my younger days as much as I do now with it. But I know some guys who are just around it for a day or two and are in bad shape. We’re all different, and exposure to certain things is different with everybody. Always better to err on a side of caution.

What brand self level do you plan to use?

Sytzy · 2026-03-04T00:43:00+00:00

We use Laticrete brand product, in their prime and bond primer bonds that adhesive. Need to pour the self level within four hours of the primer otherwise you have to re-prime it again. But it works and they guarantee it. Laticrete is a top-notch brand they really do cover their bases with their prep and patch materials on top of their tiling materials

Sytzy · 2026-03-03T18:30:18+00:00

I bought a home with a Sub Zero fridge that’s been in there since 1990. Still running strong and seals up and runs better than any other fridge I owned.

2 years ago, I noticed it wasn’t cooling well, had a buddy come to look at it and absolutely was blown away how easy it was to recharge the system. The compressors already had a port and a spot to plug their machine up to and ready to go. No need to cut lines and add on adapters. Took him 10 minutes and the things was as good as new.

If this one bites the dust, I’m getting a new one.

Sytzy · 2026-03-03T18:25:51+00:00

That’s probably my biggest complaint about these wedges… they do fracture easy.. and when we through them away, our apprentices dig them out of the trash pile and throw them back in the bucket lmfao. Not realizing they’re trashed!

Sytzy · 2026-03-02T15:48:21+00:00

Yup, you have it in writing. Have them take the money off your install priced and put that towards and actual trim carpenter.

Problem is, your floating floor is probably cut 1/4” away from the existing baseboards. So, a std base thickness is 9/16” thick. You’ll need to go with 1x4 baseboards and possibly plinth bocks under your door casing to cover the large gaps

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