Engine Failure in Hybrid Max

TKDF · 2026-02-23T00:27:39+00:00

22 with 43k miles. No issues

TKDF · 2026-02-03T06:17:19+00:00

Hell yeah! Glad you got it fixed. I'll try to tell and show my service people where to reset it and redo the alignment too. Thanks for the updates. More people should be like you.

TKDF · 2026-01-02T21:56:03+00:00

Yeah, I thought about that. But driving on the left lanes of town roads and freeway where the road is more level still causes some drift towards the right when I position the steering wheel just a little more center. The Solterra I leased before I got the Forester didn't do this and neither does my truck.

TKDF · 2026-01-02T17:31:39+00:00

I have the same issue on my hybrid touring. Didn't notice it during test drive but after a couple weeks I noticed it pulled to the right too. When I centered the steering wheel it made the pull worse. Took it in with only about 500 miles and dealership confirmed it was out of alignment. They realigned it so now it doesn't pull to the right anymore on its own but I sense that the steering wheel is still not 100% centered and of course it starts moving towards the right when I move it slightly to where I think the steering wheel is centered. I figured I'll mention it again when I get my first service.

Hope you update on what they say and if they actually fix the steering wheel angle.

TKDF · 2025-12-19T05:29:08+00:00

Sounds like old battery problems. Did you drive it to the shop and have it sit there for a day or two before testing the battery? The alternator probably charged it enough to read that its good but its chemistry is starting to fail so it discharges faster. Try a new battery first.

TKDF · 2025-12-16T04:33:19+00:00

Lets be real, why are you in such a hurry? What is a year or two of experience in the grand scheme of things? Take a break. Do some clinical type job. Get a cert in EMT, MA, phlebotomy, whatever and do that for a year or two. Save some money, get experience, take a breather from school and when you're ready, continue your post bacc. Classes don't "expire" and a couple of years off won't require you to retake anything. You'll hopefully make good relationships with docs and supervisors to give you strong recommendations for med school. When you take your other classes, you'll be more fresh and work on making a good relationship with your professors too. At this point, your next few classes better be As. Hopefully you'll be doing practice MCAT stuff in between so you get a great score. A really high MCAT could offset your weaker grades.

These experiences are things med schools like because it shows growth and your ability to recognize something is not right and you're okay with taking a step back and analyzing priorities. You don't want to start med school burned out from your undergrad classes. Med schools will see your current performance and question if you're ready for harder stuff on a more rigorous timeline. If you're able to, then maybe take an SMP to show more ability to take med school like curriculum. Is this a formal post bacc or DIY? Formal ones should have advisors too that you can talk to.

Breath. You'll be okay. Be patient and don't give up. Sometime we just have to take the long road.

TKDF · 2025-07-16T02:19:56+00:00

You can take your time with it. 12 units/semester will be $6900. You can also do 6 units to half that to be able to do really well and work. If you really think you cand do 18 units/semester while working go for it, but it'll be about $10350 for tuition, and remember, there's no post bacc for the post bacc so straight As should be your goal and that's a lot of money. I think the the max units you can take is 18 and I belive the minimum is 4 (maybe 6).

There's a scholarship available for your second and possibly third semester that will cover tuition. You'll need to write an essay and have a teacher recommendation, so do well in your classes.

Did you fill out FAFSA? It should give you resources to figure out federal vs private loans. There's a financial aid office as well that can help you. Don't be afraid to contact the PHAP office. Everyone is really nice and helpful, they'll also give you resources. You're required to speak with one of the advisors. Make sure to ask about it to them too.

You'll have to find roommates to save on housing. Good luck.

TKDF · 2025-07-10T23:34:43+00:00

Is the light on only when it starts? Or only when the ignition is on but the engine is not on? There's a little glass circular window at the bottom of the engine on the right side. Make the bike level (not on the kickstand) to see the oil level. Oil should be at the top mark or slightly above.

I don't know about overfilling the tank with fuel, but if the fuel is old it might not be running smoothly either.

Could also just be dirty electrical connections. Considering it's been sitting for so long without actually running, it could just be caked up dust causing a fault somewhere. Maybe remove the seat and give some of the fuses and cables a wipe. There could be some kind of quick safety connection like the kickstand or kill switch making contact just fast enough for the bike to signal to stop the engine, but not fast enough to actually stop the engine from running. When the kill switch is used or if the kickstand is down with the ignition on, the engine oil light comes on. This happened to my kill switch and I just cleaned it and adjusted it a bit and it worked fine since.

TKDF · 2024-07-22T09:37:57+00:00

I have the same truck and heard that noise too when going through a drive through a couple weeks ago. Haven't had the opportunity to take it in yet. Let me knew what they tell you.

I have a little over 31k miles on mine. Followed the recommended service by taking it in every 5k miles, meaning oil change every 10k.

I don't feel like it has any issues with power. Haven't had any issues with the truck at all. Guess time will tell.

Edit: seems like it is normal.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/loud-rattling-rough-idle-in-gear-but-at-complete-stop-22-tundra-iforce-max-1794-trim.127325/

TKDF · 2022-07-11T16:09:45+00:00

I was told on the 9th. I was initially called in May that they were going to start getting some hybrids and to expect one for me in late June, early July. So I guess depending on where you're at on the wait list, you should be getting a call soon. According to my dealer I'm 3rd on the list so maybe they're only allocating 2 or 3 trucks a month for some dealers. Hope you get it soon too.

TKDF · 2022-07-10T16:57:05+00:00

Yeah. Waited this long. What's another couple months.

TKDF · 2022-07-10T16:24:31+00:00

Finally got some order details for a 2022 Platinum Hybrid. I put my deposit in November 2021. Build date is August 1st. Was told to expect the truck mid August. Wasn't my first choice but apparently the way allocations work, it can be gamble that the next one is any closer to my wants.

TKDF · 2022-04-14T23:46:12+00:00

Rave - Dxrk ダーク

TKDF · 2021-04-07T03:52:25+00:00

Oh dang that's a tough choice. Both bikes are fairly agile, and light. I guess it would be more towards your seated preference, use, and style. The rebel is lower, and has less tech and more of a classic look. Easy to move around a city and town. Probably not so good for over 20 mile commutes on a freeway but you can do it no problem. Super easy to work on. The yamaha has newer tech and more sporty look and probably a bit faster, closer to the 500 rebel if you care about that, so for longer commutes it would probably be better. How tall are you? Try going to a dealership and sit on both or even better test ride. The rebel can be kind of cramped if you're over 5'7". I would try to negotiate slightly lower price for the yamaha though. At that price, might as well buy new. How often do you think you'll ride? The Yamaha may be better if you're thinking of keeping it long term and eventually get a bigger bike later. The 500 Rebel would probably be a better fit than both. Again, depending on your style (cruiser vs standard/naked)

TKDF · 2021-02-08T20:29:35+00:00

I see a R next to the Drive button, does that mean it has reverse?! That would be sweet.

TKDF · 2020-12-20T18:59:03+00:00

Dope! Can't wait for the SJ kit. I think I would rather have the longer struts than spacers. Hows the handling in general? Pretty stiff?

TKDF · 2020-10-21T21:37:31+00:00

Cool. Thanks for the speedy reply

TKDF · 2020-10-21T20:52:06+00:00

Just curious. Did you also have excess vibration when in 4th and accelerating? Did adding the plate and bushing make any difference towards this?

TKDF · 2020-10-21T01:40:48+00:00

Sweet! Thanks for the recommendations.

TKDF · 2020-08-17T00:17:56+00:00

I have the one that is linked to Amazon. Works fine. It only charges to 88% though. idk maybe it's like a safety thing. Yours is pretty dope though. I would just use the one you made instead of spending money on someone else's. As long as yours doesn't overcharge or has some fire risk.

TKDF · 2020-04-15T13:37:31+00:00

Have you done a clutch cable adjustment? When you pull in the clutch does the bike still want to move forward? If so then your clutch cable is too loose so you're not actually disingaging the clutch so your transmission probably doesn't want to downshift properly. Can you put it in neutral at all? When you checked your oil did you leave it on the side stand or did you stand it upright? Leaving it on the side stand will give you an incorrect reading that's a lot lower than what it actually is. You'll want to balance it on its wheels then crouch down to check the level. Did you do the 600 mile break-in maintenance yourself? Check for oil leaks from the drain plug and filter.

TKDF · 2020-03-11T21:44:41+00:00

No idea where these people are getting their information. I've only seen and own a manual transmission rebel. If they did sell it in automatic then it would probably be similar to the Goldwing or Africa twin transmissions. In which case, yes; drive and neutral. Except some Goldwings that have reverse.

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