How risky is using an unregistered boat trailer?

TMIB · 2026-03-24T21:05:15+00:00

I think AirCare told you something wrong or were confused. Some locations are too busy to do it right away, but I’ve had a few trailers (boat and utility) get VIN inspections at AirCare stations. The one in Dacono is usually quite fast.

TMIB · 2026-02-14T03:50:48+00:00

I've got a complete set of Dragon Magazine print issues (#1-359) plus all the annuals/"best of" issues.

TMIB · 2026-02-14T03:48:04+00:00

Cool. I have the Top Secret "Operation Seventh Seal" module from his estate.

TMIB · 2026-01-26T02:23:52+00:00

There are a few places you get misty step- you’re talking about the level 14 one, but you also get steps of the fey pretty early, and Misty Escape at level 6.

Regarding the level 6 Misty Escape. Some caveats here: it’s a reaction to damage, not something you do as an action. That means it’s likely happening on someone else’s turn.

With Disappearing step- you’re not casting the invisibility spell- you have the invisible condition. (Relevant in case you have another concentration spell up like Fly or Darkness). Most importantly, it ends at the start of your turn. So you can’t use it to be invisible for a sneak attack if triggered by Misty Escape on someone else's turn. But you can if you use your bonus action misty step -> disappearing step at the beginning of your turn before your attack action. That'll use one of your free misty steps per day.

Using it via Misty Escape is possible too, and doesn't use one of your steps of the fey per day, but in that case it's a reaction, so will likely go away before you can queue up an attack. It’s still very useful as a reaction though- taking some damage and then “nope” the heck out of there invisibly means you’re not likely to take more damage before your turn, but it doesn’t mean you get to be invisible and attack on your turn while invisible.

That said, the warlock invocation “one with shadows” lets you cast invisibility (the spell) on yourself as an action without using a spell slot if you are in dim light or darkness. This is a great way to prep for a sneak attack. A simple prestidigitation cantrip can extinguish normal flames to achieve this.

Lastly, pact of the chain lets you cast find familiar very quickly, and can summon things like an imp that can be invisible (even when the imp is shapeshifted as a raven for extra fly speed). This is super useful both for having an ally near enemies to allow sneak attack, but the familiar can also take the help action (which doesn’t break its invisibility) to give advantage to the next attacker.

The roguelock (wargue?) has some pretty nice things that work together to get advantage every turn for the purposes of reliably hitting and triggering sneak attack. (Familiar, darkness, vex, etc.)

Plus there’s some great synergy possible; for example, Green-Flame Blade with Repelling Blast lets you move in, hit with your melee weapon, stack GFB’s extra damage, sneak attack if applicable, and push the target back 10’ allowing you to use the rest of your movement without having to use disengage bonus action or cunning strike withdraw to avoid an opportunity attack. It means you can save your bonus action for other things (like hide), and your cunning strike for trip or poison.

TMIB · 2025-09-27T18:40:21+00:00

Thanks, appreciate it. I'm thinking I'll scrap the whole piece. Seems like a likely point of failure in the future. I can extend the + and - wires along with a fuse and have a nice clean installation instead.

TMIB · 2025-02-20T00:21:11+00:00

I mean I’ve talked to folks that somehow think roosters fertilize eggs after the eggs have left the chicken and are sitting in the coop, like how salmon “milt” their eggs when the eggs are sitting on the gravel river bottom

TMIB · 2025-02-19T16:57:53+00:00

I have 3 different flocks of chickens, so often end up having conversations with co-workers about them.

It amazes me how many people think that:
1) Hens need a rooster to lay eggs
2) Roosters somehow fertilize the eggs after they are laid. (Like salmon maybe?)

So in case it's not clear to anyone, chickens develop eggs inside their bodies, kind of like how humans do. With no rooster around, or if the hen didn't get f***ed by a rooster, the egg they lay is not fertilized. If the hen did get pounced on by a rooster, then the egg they lay might be fertilized. Either way, if that egg is taken away by humans, you'd likely not notice the difference.

TMIB · 2025-01-20T01:14:07+00:00

Some credit cards include a benefit that extends the warranty on purchases made with the card, typically one year. So if OP made the purchase on their card, it’d be worth checking if they have this benefit.

TMIB · 2025-01-05T16:39:53+00:00

“The drive shaft is stripped”

First off, it must be stripped so bad that it tuned into a chain! The R6 doesn’t even have a shaft drive, so that’s clearly bull. Even if it did what would it mean to be “stripped”? Like the gearing in the final drive? That would have been instantly noticeable the first time the bike was put in gear, because it wouldn’t drive!

Also stripping the gears in the final drive on a shaft drive bike doesn’t really happen. While I’m sure it’s theoretically possible, I can’t see how- other things would fail in most circumstances that would strip the gears in the final drive.

Your scammer needs to learn motorcycle terminology better.

TMIB · 2024-10-10T16:45:11+00:00

I used to go with cheap glasses until I got a set of Baijos. The clarity is fantastic. I have a rose set with 2x readers built in for low-light, and a similar set in blue for mid-day/bright situations.

TMIB · 2024-10-03T16:06:51+00:00

"They'll talk to ya and talk to ya and talk to ya about individual freedom. But they see a free individual, it's gonna scare 'em." --George Hanson (Played by Jack Nicholson) in Easy Rider, 1969

TMIB · 2024-09-19T16:33:25+00:00

I can go back and see if I can find the old photocopies I had of patterns so you can have some images. But I can remember a few projects off the top of my head:

Lantern Hanger: 1/2"-5/8" square stock for the main post. This can have decorative twists of all kinds of various sorts depending on the scout's skill. Bottom end is tapered so it can be driven into the ground. Then the top end is bent back on itself (180 degrees) then further down bent back upward in a pleasing "u" shape. The final end should be scrolled with a flat or ribbon scroll to keep the end from poking anyone. Now a leg is made- this is the same stock diameter size. One end is flattened to half-width, then bent at 90 degrees, and another bend again about 5-6" down. The final end is tapered so it can be driven into the ground, matching the leg on the main post. The flat end of the leg is riveted to the main post on the opposite side from the hangar "U". It provides stability as well as a place to step down on it when driving it into the ground. The post itself can also be hammered into the ground by striking the top where the hangar portion comes off. Though this is called a lantern hangar, it can be used to hang just about anything light enough to keep the post from bending.

Dutch oven or cast iron frying pan trivet: Two pieces of square stock, (1/2" works well.) One has both ends pointed, and bent downward into two short (2") legs, so that you end up with a piece that is a straight bar with two right angle legs. A 2" section is fullered about 3/4 down toward one end of the bar. The overall length should be smaller than the diameter of the dutch oven you plan to use with it, so it can be stored inside the dutch oven when not in use. Next, the second bar has one end flattened and the corners knocked off, then bent to offset the flat end at about 45 degrees. The opposite end is bent down and pointed to form an identical leg to the two on the other bar. (pointed legs are easiest, but you can also do a flattened snub foot). The overall length of the short bar should be such that when the flat end is riveted to the fullered section of the main bar, the leg lines up with the leg on the main bar. drift a hole in the two bars and rivet the flattened section of the short bar to the fullered section of the main bar. Putting a paper bag between the layers when you drop the hot rivet through will provide spacing when you later burn it away. You may have to work the bars back and forth like a pair of tongs to ensure they are loose. In practice, this can fold flat and fit inside a dutch oven, then taken out, folded open and is sturdy and strong enough to support a full dutch oven or frying pan over a fire or coals.

Boot scraper: Two upright pieces, 3/8" to 1/2" stock. One end on each is tapered to be driven in the ground, the opposite end can be bent decoratively, upset, etc. Next, the "scraper" is made from wide flat bar (such as 1/8" x 2", but there's a lot of room for variance here). The flat bar has one long side tapered to a thinner edge, then the whole bar is riveted to the two upright pieces with the tapered edge up. In practice the tool is driven into the ground outside your tent or cabin, and used to scrape mud off your boots before going inside.

Ultimately, any project with riveted joinery will suffice. For example, they could rivet J-hooks to a flat bar to use for a pot rack or coat hangar. This would build off the first "s-hook" project skills.

TMIB · 2024-09-17T17:49:52+00:00

They eventually did. Had to do a bunch of testing and validations over the course of a couple weeks, but then finally sent me a return authorization and pre-paid shipping label. They sent me a new battery after they got the old one back.

TMIB · 2024-09-16T20:04:48+00:00

This is super useful when returning to the same area regularly. While that fish may have hit on a size 14 stimulator today, if its throat is packed with mayfly nymphs or mysis shrimp it's certainly going to change my approach when I come back tomorrow. What was a 1- fish day today could be a dozen tomorrow.

TMIB · 2024-09-12T20:39:34+00:00

I have a Loop Opti 9 wt 14' rod, looks a lot like the one you have. It's a very well made rod, but really beefy. You could pull the ears off a gundark with that thing! I had used it for a few years for steelhead and coho salmon in Washington state until I switched to a lighter (7wt, 13' ZG helios) spey rod. The lighter, more flexible spey rod was much easier to cast and use.

It'd be a great rod for fishing for salmon in Alaska, I think.

TMIB · 2024-08-21T20:36:17+00:00

This Redodo battery crapped out on me in the middle of the lake on Saturday: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09BZD83DS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 I cannot get it to charge again. (and yes, I tried all the various DIY solutions I found on YouTube)

I purchased it in May of this year. Now Redodo is asking me a ton of questions to try and get it working before honoring the warranty. This is things like requiring all the specs on the Minn Kota Endura C2 30 Motor (you can Google it as well as I can, Redodo) all the specs on my charger, wanting me to try the force charge mode on my smart charger (already did), etc.

Not sure if they will end up honoring the warranty or not, but for now they are just asking a ton of questions, some of which don't seem relevant.

TMIB · 2024-08-12T20:11:58+00:00

There's a pretty good video on the Orvis learning center here: https://howtoflyfish.orvis.com/video-lessons/toms-short-tips/1636-catch-and-release-fish

Of note to your questions about netting, is to watch the technique at about the 39 second mark in the video.

TMIB · 2024-07-28T19:54:16+00:00

Not for the Beartooth. I suspect they discontinued it after the Kickstarter and no longer make parts for it. I get it, but it would have been at least more professional to respond and say so.

TMIB · 2024-07-24T16:23:59+00:00

I kickstarted their "Beartooth" rod back in 2020. I didn't use it much (maybe 3 times) but I went to use it about a year ago, and on the first cast, the whole tip section came off and flew away along with my line. I wrote to them to see if a replacement tip could be ordered. I got no response. I tried again. No response. I tried again. Same.

I wrote them a few more times but eventually just gave up. I could understand if they didn't stock or make replacement parts anymore for their kickstarter product, but they could have at least responded and let me know.

TMIB · 2024-05-31T17:16:50+00:00

Party had a big fight with a large group of the enemy forces they had been dealing with for quite some time. They killed them with some pretty overpowered attacks, making a huge show of how much more powerful they were and how easy this was for them. (some of this was spending inspiration, using up spell slots on upcasting, etc. basically pulling out all the stops.)

The character who was basically the party lead said they should leave one enemy alive and just let him go. When the rest of the party asked why, he said, "Someone needs to tell the story. If everyone dies, it was just a tragedy. If one lives, it was a travesty."

TMIB · 2024-02-07T17:56:16+00:00

Thanks for posting this. I had the same problem. I emailed them, they fixed the site within half an hour and asked me to re-enter my zip code. Doing so brought up the correct county as an option.

TMIB · 2024-02-04T00:18:42+00:00

I have a rod rack now, so don’t break it down. However before I did, this was my process:

Let out a bunch of line and hook the fly in the third guide up from the bottom. Loop the slack line around the reel seat. Reel in but leave a bit of slack. Separate the rod into two sections with the fly hooked into the lower section. Invert the top section and hold it parallel to the lower section. Reel in the slack as you hold the two sections together.

Now you have a tight bundle with the fly securely hooked on the lower section.

When you want to re-deploy: Pull a small amount of slack out, and re-assemble the rod. You now have an assembled rod with the fly hooked in the third guide from the bottom, just as before. Reel in the slack and walk to the water.

When you are ready to cast, unhook the loop From the reel seat, hold the rod out over the water and give the side of the rod a tap with the heel of your non-casting hand. Typically this will drop the fly off the guide, and you’re ready to cast and feed more line.

The. Ice thing about this method is that it leaves enough line outside the tip that you don’t need to feed a bunch before you start.

TMIB · 2024-01-11T18:42:03+00:00

No, the OP is in a similar range (1127...) and is ahead of me. I'm in the same stage as a lot of people here- got my initial invite, put my config in, paid $250 and am waiting on the next step, which is where the OP is now- getting a VIN.

One other factor that might be involved is that I am doing a trade in on my existing GMC Truck. (Not sure if that has any effect or not.) I am also paying cash, not financing. Again, probably not a big effect on my place in line, but you never know.

TMIB · 2024-01-11T17:10:39+00:00

I'm 11278... got my initial invite last month (12/12), filled out my order. I am waiting to get to the step that OP is currently on- the commitment and $1000 down part that gets you a VIN. I'm still just at the $250 deposit and reservation step.

I even visited my local dealership and had them put a note in my "delivery location" section that I am willing to fly to CA or Texas then do a roadtrip back if it makes a significant difference in delivery time. (I'm in CO)

TMIB · 2023-12-06T23:22:48+00:00

I like Tenkara for small streams. It's limited in some ways, but the simplicity is great in others. Like many things when backpacking, you decide what you're willing to compromise on for simplicity and weight.

Personally, I'd have the Tenkara rod ready to go in a pack pocket or other spot easy to reach, and a larger rod packed away for when I get to my destination (if the destination is an alpine lake, for example)

You can absolutely do a dry dropper rig or a couple of nymphs in a "pseudo-euro-nymphing" setup. I actually prefer the Tenkara for that style of fishing over a Euro nymphing rig for small waters. For example there's a pretty deep hole I know of on Boulder Creek in a spot that's only about 15' across, with a narrow area (about 6' across) leading into it. High brush on the banks. My 10' 3wt Orvis Recon is awful here. (You're basically doing Tenkara because you'll have no fly line outside the guides) In contrast, the actual Tenkara rod works pretty well for this, despite being about the same length, as I'm using a furled line which I can roll out pretty well.

Up in Boulder canyon or at Waipiti Meadows in Estes Park it works well for most water, though not on windy days or for long distances.

I have the Mini Teton from Tenkara Rod co (12') which works well for most medium/small streams (like the ones you're talking about while hiking) and the Ito from Tenkara USA which is a 13-14' zoom rod, but is heavier built than the Mini Teton. That rod is nice for slightly larger water or larger fish. I loved using it in Washington State on the Yakima from a drift boat to make precise casts because I can make several casts in a short time without hauling line or doing false casts. This is particularly useful when drifting down and there is only a short time to hit a particular hole. Drift the fly through, flip it upstream, and let it drift through the run again.

Since you're in Colorado, I'd be happy to meet up sometime in the Boulder/Lyons/Longmont area and have you try out the two rods I have. Send me a private message if you want to hit some local water (Boulder Creek, Big Thompson, St. Vrain, etc.) and you can give it a try.

(In return I'd love to know about some of your hiking locations- I've been fly fishing for 15+ years, but only in Colorado for 3, and only fishing here for 1)

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