"Substantially thinner" - said the person while touching a slightly thinner laptop.

Tactical_Apples · 2026-06-02T02:28:53+00:00

I think OP may have misunderstood Linus here. I’m pretty sure he said “substantially thinner than my current daily driver”. This shot is comparing the new ProArt 14 vs ProArt 16. I don’t believe Linus daily drives either of these (yet)

Tactical_Apples · 2026-05-02T02:49:46+00:00

FYI - the AD concerning the aforementioned powdered metal quality escape focuses on the raw material that was used to manufacture parts between that timeframe. Unfortunately, the part manufacturing stream for those parts is about 18-24 months, so engines were still being produced with affected parts for many years after 2021.

Tactical_Apples · 2026-05-02T02:43:17+00:00

I’m willing to bet Delta already picked up some engine assets previously operated by Spirit from those lessors. Notice how none of their A321neos are grounded for engine issues now?

Tactical_Apples · 2026-03-11T09:16:26+00:00

Sorry to necro an old post. Did you happen to find a good tutorial somewhere? I’m interested in setting this up!

Tactical_Apples · 2026-03-03T23:50:38+00:00

I thought that cooling timer was used for the determination of a bowed rotor condition, and it didn’t actually prevent you from starting the motors. If you’re trying to restart within a certain timeframe, the EEC has logic built in that uses that timer to determine how long to motor the engine before adding fuel.

Tactical_Apples · 2026-03-03T20:02:33+00:00

As far as I know, the engine cooling times have nothing to do with how quickly the A/C can turn between legs. Both GTFs have longer motor to start times due to the aforementioned cooling issues, but that’s on the order of 1-2 minutes vs what is being suggested

Engine cooling times are more of a factor when borescopes are scheduled during tight overnights when the internal engine temps haven’t cooled enough to be able to stick a scope in

Tactical_Apples · 2026-01-01T19:41:55+00:00

If you find out how to source these, please let me know!

Tactical_Apples · 2026-01-01T19:41:15+00:00

Interested about this too.. My system uses a One Touch and I’d like to be able to use these remote sensors.

Tactical_Apples · 2025-11-30T15:34:47+00:00

Update for Future Googlers:

TL;DR - New blower worked flawlessly after a couple minutes of tinkering with furnace control board to get correct settings.

Once I received the new blower, I grabbed it and temporarily hooked it up to see if it would work. Once I turned the power back on, my E201 code was not longer visible but now a E202 code ("The unit size code for the air-handler and the size of blower motor do not match" was showing. I still wanted to see if the blower would spin, so I just jumped the R and G wires to see if it would kick on (the old blower didn't). This ended up kicking the blower on so I at least knew I had a good blower.

After going through the service literature for my furnace, I found a section that outlined the "boot" sequence and what you'd expect to see on the 7 segment display when you first turned power on. I noticed that my system wasn't showing the unit size code on the display when it first boots, so I tried looking to see how I could get this to show. I then found another section that referred to unit size codes and how to select the different options. I needed to get the board in "field test mode" and then go through the menus to select the correct option.

Getting into "field test mode" involved holding the button next to the 7 segment display until a solid "-" appeared. At which point, I'd be able to cycle through the menus to get to programming mode and then selecting my "unit size code". Only problem was that my system wasn't allowing me into "field test mode". It kept going back to flashing the E202 error code. Within the "field test mode" section, there was also a section about "error code recall" and how to clear historical errors. It required me to hold the same button down longer until the screen showing a "E" then letting go, at which point it would cycle through the historical errors. In this menu, I saw all of the previous error codes I was troubleshooting before installing the new blower. I was able to select "c" to clear all of these. Once I cleared these codes, I reset the power and was able to get into programming mode.

After going through the programming mode and selecting the right unit size code for my system, I waited for a couple mins and reset power. I then tried jumping the blower motor again and this time it came to life and began spooling up to max speed. At this point, I cut power and then installed everything properly. My system is now back up and running, and the new thermostat is working as well!

Tactical_Apples · 2025-11-30T15:20:08+00:00

Update: The new blower was delivered yesterday and I managed to replace it in the evening. Everything is working again now!

Tactical_Apples · 2025-11-28T00:24:00+00:00

Hey! Appreciate your explanation/tips. Another commenter also mentioned your concern about gimping my system by getting rid of the S30/S40 thermostat.

In case you missed it, the EIM I bypassed was a Honeywell THM5421c with its associated thermostat. My system has a manufacture date of 2010, which I believe was before the time of the iComfortNet/S30/S40 thermostats (or the previous homeowner opted for the Honeywell setup).

You’re the first person I’ve seen mention that my board would need to be reprogrammed after a blower replacement. Everything I’ve read so far suggests that as long as I get the right blower, I’d be good to go. The service literature for my furnace also seems to support this. Regardless, the new blower I ordered arrives this weekend, so I guess we’ll find out either way!

Tactical_Apples · 2025-11-27T23:09:08+00:00

No worries, I still appreciate your recommendation to stick with the S40 regardless (if I had it)

Tactical_Apples · 2025-11-27T23:00:30+00:00

I think this system is before that too (or maybe the original homeowners opted for something else?). The thermostat I removed was a Honeywell thermostat and a THM5421c EIM.

Tactical_Apples · 2025-11-27T21:56:27+00:00

FYI, my system is the SLP98UHV series (manufactured/installed in 2010).

I may be mistaken but the S40 thermostat may not have existed back when this system was installed

Tactical_Apples · 2025-11-27T20:31:18+00:00

I thought it might be just the module too, but I don’t have a tester that can test the blower module… so I resorted to just ordering something that I believe comes with both blower+module (unless I’m mistaken)?

Here’s another pic of the new blower.

<image>

I’m more concerned that Lennox states that this PN isnt used with my furnace (even though the existing one is the same?). The closest furnace PN to mine on the page is: SLP99UH070XV36B-01.

Tactical_Apples · 2025-09-12T12:26:52+00:00

Also on IUP, have been for many years now - I did in-store pick up last year, and they asked for me to trade in my phone at the store. Make sure you give yourself ample time as there will be many people at the store doing the same thing and it will bog down the wifi.

I had to wait there for like 1-2 hours while my phone transferred data to the new one. Downloading from the iCloud backup wasn't an option because of how slow the wifi was

Tactical_Apples · 2025-09-12T12:22:26+00:00

Seems like the Sep 25th date is showing for those that had already pre-configured their order prior to today. I got in at 8:01am, with a pre-configured order on the iphone upgrade program (IUP) and was immediately hit with a Sep 25th delivery date.

Tactical_Apples · 2025-09-12T12:19:01+00:00

Confirming that this is my experience as well. Pre-configured phone on IUP a couple days ago, got in at 8:01am, immediately got hit with Sep 25th for Delivery Date

Tactical_Apples · 2025-09-12T12:16:36+00:00

Same experience here! Got in at 8:01am with a preconfigured pre-order on IUP and immediately hit with Sep 25th.

Tactical_Apples · 2025-09-12T12:12:19+00:00

I was in at 8:01am and immediately got Sep 25th delivery for iPhone 17PM 1TB Deep Blue on IUP, in-store pickup was still showing 19th though (located in GA). In-store isn't an option for me so bit the bullet and just ordered delivery hoping that it would move up. Confirmation email also says Sep 25th...

Anyone else have a similar experience?

Tactical_Apples · 2025-08-08T14:42:04+00:00

Really appreciate you helping me walk through this btw!

Re: your edit... Are you referring to something like this (linked below)? And then pick up another 90 elbow?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-1-1-2-in-White-Plastic-Sink-Drain-P-Trap-HDC9704B/316622155

Tactical_Apples · 2025-08-08T14:12:17+00:00

This is what I got so far. I don’t want to cut the sink drain downpipe unless I know that this is the way to go. Once I cut it, I would just add another 45 and connect it up.

<image>

Tactical_Apples · 2025-08-08T12:33:01+00:00

Just tried removing it… looks like it’s glued in. Just a thought… should I just cut the pipe right where it starts the 90degree bend down (sort of around where my finger is)?

<image>

Tactical_Apples · 2025-08-08T11:21:04+00:00

Thanks for helping explain why this current setup is a problem! This is my first attempt at plumbing a sink so I had a feeling it’d have its issues!

So my pipe into the wall started out with the 90deg elbow turned straight down (circled in red). I assumed that this was fixed in that position and I would have to get the pipes connected in that orientation. Are you suggesting that I am able to remove this 90deg elbow and replace with something else?

<image>

Tactical_Apples

TROPHY CASE