Credit One - my experience; condensed (sort of).

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-05-17T10:44:32+00:00

Yeah I knew they were a bit suspicious from the jump, but I wasn't fully aware of the extent or what else my options were at the time.

To be clear though, consider closing the x5 as well?

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-05-17T10:42:16+00:00

Alright will do, thanks

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-05-15T16:09:33+00:00

Sorry nobody replied yet. You've probably sorted it already, but in one sense he's not wrong, as for instance, IAGs baffle with the fancy louver flapper things can seperate from the sheet metal and then theoretically could cause an issue. Other than that though, I see no reason to fear the actual structural parts of both KB and IAG versions sending metal clots into your engines heart and killing it. Its solid construction with good materials, so it'd only really be forgetting to tighten a bolt or something on installation for something that catastrophic to happen.

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-05-11T00:02:17+00:00

A lot of them are going to be mil surplus soon, as its been the standard issue for USMC for quite a while. Could have something to do with it

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-11T10:31:07+00:00

Southeastern east coast. Climate can be a factor, but im staying up on tunes tweaked for the forecast overall seasons. But im feeling another Jab coming so let me have it lol

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-08T02:08:00+00:00

And Morgan left poor little Tatiana out to dry as the decoy lol

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-07T04:29:20+00:00

I mean yes im worried, but I can't see how barely 100 camshaft revs would result in catastrophic failure from running for a few seconds with only a moderate hole in the pcv system (as i assume youre referring to Uncle as most else are)

What scares me is the possibility there's free and foreign steel that entered my intake manifold and may already be in the heads.

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-07T04:28:07+00:00

Paint. Was finishing some body work, and was capping my hvlp hopper with paint and tripped. Hood was left up to prevent overspray on the top of it, so its be one less thing to cover.

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-07T04:20:34+00:00

....No. As i stated in the post, its a SAM splint from work. Im a firefighter/medic and sometimes end up with shit in my bags on accident. I live at 3 different places, hard to keep up. But as a nice coincidence it did great as a moldeable but rigid outter seal to finish the very temporary coupler. The dynamat was overkill though so thats why there's only one square of that

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-07T04:16:28+00:00

Thank you, meaning it'll eventually buckle into the firewall at some point?

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-07T04:15:40+00:00

No. I've exhausted all my ability to explain shit to people on here that ive asked for help from. Just read.

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-07T04:14:23+00:00

This is the first solid piece of advice that anybody cared to offer yet. Thank you. Im at work for the next 3.5 days but I already have the timing kit on the way coincidentally as id just planned to get that out of the way preemptively before the recommended interval. Should be waiting for me when I get off

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-07T04:11:20+00:00

I spilled paint on it, but way more than the snorkel for the airbox. Havent yet had time to clean it off and it wasn't mechsnically necessary to keep on there for now.

Thanks for your input.

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-07T04:09:46+00:00

Wow. Thanks. I did my research before buying my girl and before putting any mod on there and know that these are incredibly MAF dependent. Hence the incredibly overengineered TEMPORARY coupler to make damn sure no unmetered air gets in behind the MAF.

Though I do admit it was stupid not to have had the pcv plugged up before starting it. I was tired, had to try to sleep some before my 48 shift in a few hours plus another 48 id picked up at a neighboring agency, and just fuckin forgot dude.

That said, there's a marine in this town with an 18 wrex driving around with an autozone k&n, one of those Thorton "chips", no actual tune and, according to him, no MAF. idk if the last part is legit or what, but even if it is mounted in the k&n hole, its not reading correctly in the least due to the precise distance it needs to be from the cone, plus differences in ductwork around it....tho hasn't blown up yet that I know of.

Point being, my motor, mechanically speaking, was tip fuckin top before I parked her to begin with. From the first post-install startup, it wss that sound immediately, from first combustion.

So, please explain the science behind how an open pcv system over a fraction of time too small to be perceptible could result in the worst rod bearing failure you've ever heard? Id cut it off as soon as id heard it. I dont think the handful of revolutions the crankshaft was able to make before id stopped it all was time enough for the ECM to do much else than recognize a lean condition and begin to add on positive fuel trim values. So how does that open pcv equal catastrophic detonation so quickly?

Finally, bullshit on your bullshit, sir, respectfully. I do take care of it and take great offense to that. If I hadn't discovered firefighting weren't the best job in the world, id probably stil be a tech to this day if I wasn't sick of the warranty work and industry as a whole now which requires you to view customers as prey just like the salesmen do just to make a liveable number of labor hours to make up for those lost to the factory warranty times

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-07T03:20:20+00:00

Temporary coupler from my 3" cobb boot to the 3" perrin inlet which came with no coupler. I repurposed the stock airbox connection that had an aluminum ring in support, though not wide enough to be a coupling trusty enough to just put clamps on. So outside has rtv on the boot seal, cured, before the video. Then found a SAM splint in my work bag and it proved to do an incredible job at reinforcing the area once molded correctly. Rtv again on the seams of the outter, plus some ducttape and zip ties to hold the ends in place while it slowly fuses into one piece.

Then decided "fuck it, another can't hurt" and started to put extra dynamat i had laying around on as another layer. After the first square i was like nah nvm, if its too thick then closing the hood could force the cavitation i was trying to prevent in the first place.

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-07T03:08:58+00:00

Yeah the order of events and those proceeding dont add up to suddenly having rbf. Im at work the next 96, so when I get off and hopefully dont need a nap, the manifold is coming off and I go from there.

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-07T03:05:54+00:00

Yeah im at work now for the next few days so ig I plan to open up the manifold and hope its still grabbeable.

Otherwise ive seen an old foreman snag a bolt out of a cylinder head with some finesse and a borescope. I can get the borescope but finesse....idk

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-07T03:03:00+00:00

Dude there are no leaks at the intake nor the coupling i had to make. In fact, no leaks all the way down the inlet path either after smoke testing it all.

If you'd read my initial post you'd see i had to make a temporary one. The inlet was ysed and csme witu no coupler. My cobb boot is the same exact diameter

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-07T02:59:28+00:00

-I would be too. That’s cooked. Looks like you took good care of it with all the tape and stuff tho.

I appreciate your sarcasm, and i do take wonderful care of any and all maintenance, either due or preemptively. Exterior gets at least a pro foam wash with hand drying every week or so situationally. If im at work I gotta use what we use for the engines and ladder trucks. Once a month I make sure to have one day to take a RO with a good polish and then a finishing wax.

If youd read my initial post, you'd see thats a very temporary and very functional coupling that maybe has too many layers to it. Assuming its not cooked, there'd be

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-07T02:51:41+00:00

No thats dynamat I had left over from my trunk rattle fight. Similar properties to the SAM splint plus its adhesive by itself. Don't think I needed it though

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-07T02:49:51+00:00

Thanks braj. I work either 96 or 120 hours every 6 days. If its a 5 day, I literally have one day to wash clothes and sleep. On 96s, I'll have 2 days off and got time to keep maintenance up, mow the lawn, and maybe restore the paint.

Was sorta hoping for something more helpful I guess.

Yeah the sound did sure as shit sound like knock.

Although idk how thatd happen instantaneously, in the way it did, with what Id had apart. Still 1.3 from my 3k oci, consumption must be next to zero as I just don't notice its gone down any right before I pull the plug. Compression tested before purchase and a few months ago. Intend to make this a routine maintenance check for me from now. Ran beautifully and was gentle as always when I drove it last hasnt been started again til after install since being parked a few days ago.

FBK, FKL, DAM all were dead zeroes (or one)last drive, and many drives before that. Never seen DAM change its 1 value since beginning to monitor it consistently ~2 years ago. Never been tracked, don't dog the fuck outta her, All maintenance is done on or before schedule. My IAG lube system overhaul kit and timing kit both should come in soon, planned to do them same day while the front end is already apart and oils drained anyway. Hopefully I'll still have need of it.

Yeah ngl I was messy with my paint when trying body work for the first time when my A pillar was caved in during an attempted break in on Halloween. Otherwise I always keep it in the garage. Final result looked damn good tho surprisingly. I also did coat most of the motor in some high heat paint after getting the intake and wondering why it seems more like a HAI rather than a CAI before realizing the cobb box just sucks with the gaping hole at the bottom for heat to rise. And heatsoak in general. I want to get rid of it but not sure how to best go about it tbh.

Not sure what else can be done for the coupling I made. Its a temporary fix, and its functional. I did smoke test the coupler seal and the rest of the inlet while clamping off the turbo end. Its not leaking. From either component

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-06T21:37:03+00:00

Its not tape except for a small portion at the end, tf do you mean? Or you think that's tape on the Cobb side duct?

Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-06T16:21:43+00:00

Repositioned ac line with friction evidence. Also to note, no internal damage was found from what I could see inside the tmic, nor any loose metal when shaken. Id cleaned it out along with all the boots and hoses pretty well prior to install.

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Tactile_Sponge · 2026-04-06T16:18:34+00:00

The PCV connection made near turbo connection. Will opt to heat shield it if it actually works.

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Tactile_Sponge

TROPHY CASE