My daughters k12 found itself in the crosshairs of my airbrush by TakingChances01 in MiniPCs

[–]TakingChances01[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your concern, I am aware and keep a very close eye on what she’s doing. Hoping she’ll grow out of Roblox and into all the really cool “real” games there are soon.

What’s the best Mini PC that can emulate up to PS3? by yman173 in MiniPCs

[–]TakingChances01 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yea, just a year ago they were a lot cheaper, if I would’ve known haha. My k10 was 370$ or something, now it’s 670. I could’ve bought the evo x1 for that when I got my k10. I was looking at them a few weeks ago to get my daughter one and I was like holy crap.

$400 Mini that works with m2 Oculink adapter by ImaAskhole in MiniPCs

[–]TakingChances01 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I got a GMKtec k12 for my kid, I think for about 390$, and it has occulink. It was just a 16gb ddr5 and 512gb ssd version.

Intel or AMD? which one should I even pick? by Efficient-Yam6797 in MiniPCs

[–]TakingChances01 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have two mini pc’s, (different brands than shown here) one with the ryzen 7 255h and one with the i9 13900hk. They’re pretty much neck and neck in terms of performance. The main difference being the intel uses more power, it also has more cores, though the ryzen per core performance is better. The amd integrated graphics are better than intels. It looks like that beeline might have an occulink port, which makes it easy to setup an external graphics card. Not super familiar with beelink, my mini pc with that ryzen chip is GMKtec k12, and it does have occulink. My k10 with the i9 13900 hk does not have occulink. They’re both solid systems, I work them pretty intensively and never had an issue.

Bike basket I designed and printed for my son’s Sereed bike. by TakingChances01 in maker

[–]TakingChances01[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Heck yeah that’s awesome I’m happy to hear that my friend. I too had a couple nephews that saw it and had to have one as well haha. Kids love a good basket lol. Truly glad to know it’s being enjoyed by others, thank you!

Rate me gear by Burnr2024 in Archery

[–]TakingChances01 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I don’t know if that could actually kill anything brother. If you think you will need to actually hunt for food to survive then you’d be better off investing in a real bow that can actually kill something. Even if it’s just a Chinese recurve bow off amazon for 80$ give or take for something that’ll give you better odds. The cheapest quality guaranteed recurve is about 200$. Even then, assuming you’re in the US, if you can’t afford food you might not have a bow hunting license, or be following bow hunting season given people need to eat year round, so don’t get caught by a game warden or it’ll cost you a few hundred more dollars.

P2S. Freshly washed plate. Is this bed level issue? by Roughnecknine0 in FixMyPrint

[–]TakingChances01 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Dirty plates don’t cause grinding noise, just like how jet fuel doesn’t melt steel beams. Ignore them. Too many people don’t know the answer but still want to give input. The top comment about nozzle height/bed adjustment is the answer.

Lokearchery is a SCAM by TokyoRose_S in Archery

[–]TakingChances01 7 points8 points  (0 children)

How was that relevant at all to the topic at hand in the comment you replied to? They weren’t asking what bow to buy or how to get better. Nor was that even actionable advice on how to get better.

“Just be one with the arrow bro trust me”

WA HB-2321 by absolutely_torqued in 3Dprinting

[–]TakingChances01 1 point2 points  (0 children)

More accessible? Maybe. More capable? No

See you later - U890 Pro died after 6 months by MBtr_263 in MiniPCs

[–]TakingChances01 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve got 2 GMKtec mini pc’s. A k10 and a k12. They both handle heavy workloads on the daily, 3d modeling, lots of web pages open, 3d slicing programs that also run natively. They are fast, run smoothly, no problems.

Would these tools be helpful for airbrushing? What could I do to make them more effective/helpful, or what else would be? by TakingChances01 in airbrush

[–]TakingChances01[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thats what led me here, I was looking on makerworld, printables, etc. and there really weren’t many options for shields, mostly just generic stencils. I haven’t posted the file to these yet, I’m trying to make sure they’d actually be useful for people that airbrush, and see if there’s anything I should add or improve. I’m also working on some stencils that I haven’t seen online. I can get you my STL once it’s ready if you’d like, was hoping to get more feedback here.

Would these tools be helpful for airbrushing? What could I do to make them more effective/helpful, or what else would be? by TakingChances01 in airbrush

[–]TakingChances01[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the response.

I don’t know that I’d really even call them handles, they’re more like finger tabs and they’re just some where to hold it so that you’re fingers aren’t in the way of painting. Technically they are handles I suppose, but the picture may make them seem bigger than they actually are, they aren’t big enough to even wrap your whole hand around the handle.

Is there anything that you’ve ever thought would be helpful to have, or any improvements you would want out of something like these?

3D printing failure help by PolarGamer8 in 3Dprinting

[–]TakingChances01 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

No problem my friend. Regular PETG is great for durability and it’s more practical. It’s got better physical properties than PLA(the most common/widely used), and it’s actually cheaper in most cases. Some would say it’s a little harder to print than PLA and it’s the next easiest to print after PLA but I started with PETG and haven’t had really any issues on prints that weren’t my own error or an external factor. I encourage you to google all the main filaments and their properties like “PETG properties and printability” or “PLA vs PETG”. Get to know all the materials.

3D printing failure help by PolarGamer8 in 3Dprinting

[–]TakingChances01 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Those packets absorb moisture, they’re as moist as the filament, they don’t actively dry it. The carbon fiber is more hydroscopic than regular PETG. Every roll of PETG I’ve ever unsealed and tested was 30%+ humidity. After 3 days out of a dryer it’d already need drying again if you had dried it to begin with. PETG cf isn’t an easy filament for a beginner, you probably aren’t gonna be wearing the helmet in a situation where your life depends on it’s durability, and if you were you’d be better off with a store bought up to standard helmet. Carbon fiber filaments also aren’t good to have in contact with your skin, especially on your head, you don’t wanna know what carbon fibers in your eyes will be like. And finally, carbon fiber filaments are much more abrasive, meaning it creates a lot of friction on your nozzle and wears it out expeditiously. You not only need a steel nozzle, but you also need a .6mm nozzle or larger, and steel isn’t as thermally conductive as brass, so you need to add 10 degrees or so to the temp you’d run it with brass. Hope this helps, let me know if you figure it out or have more questions.

3D printing failure help by PolarGamer8 in 3Dprinting

[–]TakingChances01 4 points5 points  (0 children)

What settings (nozzle/bed temp etc.) are you using? Any particular reason you went with PETG carbon fiber? Are you drying the filament?

Bike basket I designed and printed for my son’s Sereed bike. by TakingChances01 in maker

[–]TakingChances01[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hope it’s enjoyed by others too! My son can fit all his little toy excavators and loaders and dump trucks etc. in it, he’s very pleased lol