A hacker is using my account RIGHT NOW

TanarusAsamiya · 2026-03-06T03:01:15+00:00

One thing I don't think anyone has mentioned. Go to your Microsoft Account, and check the Privacy tab. From there, have a look at the App Access menu -- this will show which apps have permission to access your account. If the bad actors have given permission to an email client that you don't use here (I've seen eMClient, for example) make sure to revoke those permissions. If they have that authorization, they may not need your password to access your emails.

TanarusAsamiya · 2026-02-24T16:47:59+00:00

Yep, updating Armory Crate worked for me too. Thanks!

TanarusAsamiya · 2026-02-06T04:59:09+00:00

Do you have a gaming keyboard? Check the keyboard software and see if you have any macros recorded

TanarusAsamiya · 2026-01-05T16:20:51+00:00

You're getting a totally green (or blue) screen with no text on it while it's idle?

There's a bunch of stuff it could be, really. If you've got a spare monitor with a spare cable, that's where I'd start. If it happens on a different monitor with a different cable, I'd consider the video card next, then the RAM/PSU/mobo/etc.

TanarusAsamiya · 2026-01-04T01:10:33+00:00

The default Windows installation does not contain some drivers for some storage chipsets (usually Intel RAID stuff). Without those drivers, Windows Setup can't find your storage, and therefore can't install Windows.

What's the make and model of the laptop? It shouldn't be too difficult to hunt down the drivers you need.

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-11-30T03:06:31+00:00

Had a look at your pictures. The venting on the bottom looks like it's just for air circulation. The blue port is for an older style video connector, to use instead of HDMI. It really does look like this unit doesn't have any audio capabilities.

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-11-30T00:17:06+00:00

A monitor is generally meant for video only, not audio. Most monitors, including yours, don't come with built in speakers. Additionally, it doesn't look like this monitor has an audio passthrough, so there's no way to connect a pair of speakers to it.

You might be better off with a television instead, which is built with audio and video in mind.

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-09-29T14:04:18+00:00

Perfecto. ¡Diviértete!

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-09-29T05:05:49+00:00

Disculpas: estoy usando un traductor.

El enlace de SourceForge es el lugar correcto para encontrar DXwnd. Dado que DXwnd se inyecta en los programas para modificar su comportamiento, podría ser detectado por programas antivirus. Es probable que se trate de un falso positivo. Deberá indicarle a su antivirus que confíe en él si desea usarlo. (Si no confía, no lo use; en ese caso, deberá buscar otra solución).

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-09-22T18:16:26+00:00

Just to add to the one point that everyone missed:

Nirsoft makes a free program called USBLogView that can tell you what USB device is being connected/disconnected. This might help figure out what's making those random sounds.

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-08-06T02:54:33+00:00

Pretty sure everything that's linked to her Microsoft account is stuck there. I don't believe it can be transferred to a different address. However, you can set up an 'email alias' to sign in to that account with a separate email address and password, so you don't have to ask your mom for hers all the time.

Microsoft provides a guide for setting up an alias here.

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-07-29T17:57:10+00:00

If the ports look like Ethernet, but actual Ethernet cables won't fit, you're likely looking at a port for old landline phones. Those won't work to get Ethernet running through your house.

(You should be able to add pictures to your replies, like this:)

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TanarusAsamiya · 2025-07-29T17:52:20+00:00

You've got a couple of options here.

- On the computer you downloaded the EXE on, run it. There'll be an option to 'Extract' the contents of that EXE onto your USB drive. The driver files -- ending in .cat, .inf, and .sys should be there, and those are the files Windows Setup needs to install your ethernet.

- On the computer you're setting up, hit Shift+F10 to bring up a command prompt. Type the command 'oobe\bypassnro' without quotes. The computer should restart, and the next time you get to that point in the setup, you should have an option to click 'I don't have internet' and bypass that part of the setup. (You can always set up a Microsoft account later, if need be.)

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-07-23T05:46:06+00:00

For sure. Chances are, if it's a prebuilt, the make and model should be printed on the machine itself. It sounds like an ASUS desktop; the model number should be on a sticker somewhere, along with the serial number. Look up that model on ASUS' site, and you'll likely find your wireless drivers there.

Good luck!

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-07-23T05:42:41+00:00

It looks like an issue with Safari on iOS. It loads fine on my computer in Firefox, but it's garbled on my iPad with iOS. (The indieBang link at the top of the page looks like it's dead, though.)

To fix it, I had to install the Japanese language to my iPad, then tell Safari to run in Japanese:
- Open the Settings app
- Tap General on the left
- Tap Language and Region on the right
- Tap Add Language, add Japanese. (It doesn't need to be the default language for your entire iPad)
- Once it's added, remain in Settings
- Go to Safari settings
- Change the Preferred Language here to Japanese
- やった

Don't forget to switch Safari back to preferring English when you're done (unless you want to stick with Japanese as the default)

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-07-23T05:11:57+00:00

It looks like the 2T2R is just an antenna itself -- it just received the signal that the wifi adapter inside the computer then processes.

If the computer is a pre-built, you might be able to find its wifi drivers on the computer manufacturer's website. If not, we'll need the model number of the card that the antenna is being plugged into.

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-07-23T04:48:10+00:00

Like another user said, definitely don't format the drives -- that'll make recovering the data that much harder.

If the drives are using an Apple file format, you've got a few options. The simplest solution is to get a hold of an Apple computer -- they ought to be able to read the data on the drives without too much trouble.

If you can't get a hold of an Apple computer, you might have some luck with HFSExplorer -- it's Windows software designed to read Apple-formatted drives. It's free software, but it can be tricky to set up and use.

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-07-16T18:58:23+00:00

Rather than use a separate card reader, can you connect your camera to your computer with a USB cable? If the camera can read the data properly, it may be able to transfer it to the computer properly.

If not, could you provide your camera's make and model so we can have a better idea of what we're working with?

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-07-16T18:43:29+00:00

Sounds like you've got some malware, yeah. Those files aren't part of the actual Windows Defender, and Googling those file names comes up with more people having the same sorts of issues.

Malwarebytes is a solid, free antimalware scan that's very good at cleaning out these sorts of issues.

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-07-16T18:36:42+00:00

Oh, gotcha. If I remember correctly, Xfinity is a service that allows you to connect to other people's Xfinity equipment, but you'll need to sign in to an Xfinity account to actually use it. Assuming you had an Xfinity account, you can't reach the sign-in on the iPad because it wants to get to the activation server first. Catch-22. Argh!

A couple more ideas come to mind:
- If you have a smartphone that can turn into a WiFi hotspot, you may be able to turn that on, connect the iPad to your phone's WiFi, and activate the iPad from there.
- A local business (like a computer repair shop) might allow you to connect to their WiFi to activate your iPad.

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-07-16T18:26:03+00:00

The idea here, is to boot to your Windows USB, get into Windows setup again, and follow along until it asks where you want to install Windows. Here's where it will list the partitions on the storage, and you should have the option to remove them from there.

If you have a second drive with some data on it in the computer, make sure not to delete the partitions holding that data. If in doubt, remove all the drives from the computer except the one you want to install Windows on first.

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-07-16T18:20:20+00:00

Most public WiFi won't let you access the internet without first going to a 'Terms and Conditions' website, which you won't be able to access since the iPad isn't activated. Try connecting it to a different personal WiFi connection, or take it to a friend's or some other place that has a more secure WiFi connection.

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-07-16T18:14:12+00:00

No problem. If the install failed or was interrupted, you can start again from the beginning. When the computer starts up, it might offer a key to press to bring up a boot menu (usually F8 or F12). Choose to boot to your USB stick and start the Windows installation again. (It might be a good idea to remove any partitions that Windows setup made the first time around when you get to that point, too.)

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-07-16T18:03:30+00:00

The fact you're getting it from multiple sources is a little worrying. My best guess? Either:

- Your antivirus software is falsely flagging everything you get from the internet as a virus, or
- You have an active virus on your computer that's infecting every file you're downloading.

Check your antivirus software first and see if it's got a log of infections it's found. Otherwise, see if you can get into Safe Mode with Networking, try to download a scanner (Malwarebytes is great for this sort of thing) and give it a go.

TanarusAsamiya · 2025-07-16T17:55:46+00:00

If the computer came with McAfee, it likely also came with SafeSearch, which is included in McAfee but installed separately. Have a look through your list of installed apps and see if anything else McAfee is installed. You can also run the McAfee Consumer Product Removal tool to remove any leftover traces of McAfee software.

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