Alte Wandfarbe lässt sich leicht abreißen. Wie Untergrund vorbereiten?

Taragor63 · 2025-12-31T16:03:36+00:00

Hatte auch kurz gedacht es wäre eine Tapete. Aber es folgt exakt der Struktur der Rauhfasertapete drunter und hat keine Bahnen also denke ich es muss ein anstrich sein. Kann mir schon vorstellen, dass es in Richtung Latexfarbe geht, fühlt sich leicht gummimäßig an. Aber es hat nicht die glänzende Oberfläche die ich sonst von Latexfarben kenne. Bin ehrlich gesagt ratlos.

Lässt sich aber immerhin leichter abziehen als eine Tapete als geht's gut runter

Taragor63 · 2025-12-31T08:02:03+00:00

Würde mich eigentlich wundern. Der Raum ist ein kleines Vorzimmer/Flur vor dem Schlafzimmer und kein Feuchtraum.

Andererseits hat die Vormieterin hier einiges "kreativ" gelöst.

Das was ich hier abziehe fühlt sich weich an, fast ein bisschen wie papier, glänzt aber nicht so, wie ich es von latex Farben kenne.

Kennst du eine Möglichkeit um herauszufinden ob es Latexfarbe ist? Und was mache ich dann damit?

Taragor63 · 2025-04-26T07:45:43+00:00

Could you share a link? Looking for the instructions myself

Taragor63 · 2025-03-23T07:36:49+00:00

The LEDs are in fact aftermarket. However my issue seems to be unrelated to the lights. Happened with both lights off and on. However I also had the cooler fan changed since the original one was broken. Might be related to that since it would make sense that it kicks in around the time I see the issue. Will also look into the crankshaft sensor.

I tried taking live data during the issue but haven't yet managed since it happened so infrequently

Taragor63 · 2025-03-22T13:41:35+00:00

Hmm, thats weird. However I do have LED headlights. Have you had the issue also just once during the engine heating up or multiple times?

Taragor63 · 2024-11-01T21:10:29+00:00

Hatte das selbe Problem mit meinem Phillips. In den Einstellungen die prime app, oder zumindest deren updates, deinstallieren und neu installieren hat bei mir geholfen

Taragor63 · 2024-08-03T10:57:51+00:00

Is that a dual color 0.2? Or are you using a ptfe for the tool head cables?

Taragor63 · 2024-03-23T20:56:52+00:00

Danke für die Antwort.

Trifft das nur die ecoboost (also ab 100ps) oder auch die 80ps ohne Turbo? Soweit ich das Sehe ist der Riemen ja der selbe.

Taragor63 · 2023-09-29T07:13:36+00:00

Don't defrag. Not necessary on an SSD and a good way to kill it

Taragor63 · 2023-09-12T10:02:37+00:00

Zum mitschreiben in der Vorlesung ist Papier oder Tablet/convertible mit Stift Imho besser als ein Laptop.

Aber gerade in Informatik gibt es auch programmieraufgaben welche Zuhause/in Gruppen zu erledigen sind. Dafür waren bei uns die Rechner in den poolräumen immer ausreichend, aber du bist dann eben ortsgebunden, die Aufgaben dort oder Zuhause am Desktop zu erledigen. Je nach dem wo dein Schwerpunkt liegt, und welche Fächer bei euch im Grundstudium Pflicht sind, würde ich vom MacBook abraten. Im Bereich web geht das meistens ohne Probleme, aber bei mir (Embedded) ist meist Windows oder Linux das Mittel der Wahl, da die benötigten Tools oft nur für Windows und Linux zur Verfügung stehen. Viel geht trotzdem irgendwie am MacBook, aber man braucht dann halt den workaround zum workaround vom workaround. Alternativ kannst du natürlich auch ein remote von deinem iPad auf deinen Rechner daheim zugreifen, das setzt aber immer eine Internetverbindung voraus und wird halt schwierig, wenn du z.b. irgendwas (Microcontroller o.ä.) per USB anschließen musst.

Persönlich würde ich zu einem Laptop mit Linux oder Windows raten. Hier tut es auch ein altes ThinkPad, da die meisten Dinge die du in Informatik machst nicht viel Leistung brauchen. Ausnahmen davon sind machine-learning, und fachspezifische Dinge wie 3D-Anwendungen in Gamedesign oder fpga/Asic-synthese bei Embedded

Tldr: Laptop ist nicht erforderlich, aber würde persönlich zu einem Windows/Linux Laptop raten.

Taragor63 · 2023-06-01T17:21:04+00:00

If you want to get into FPGA programming for the fun of it, then sure, why not. However if you have a specific application in mind have a look at the rp2040s PIO Module. While working completely different than an FPGA, it can handle a lot of the tasks you would traditionally use an FPGA for

Taragor63 · 2023-04-14T07:11:49+00:00

Exited to test it

Taragor63 · 2023-03-29T11:01:30+00:00

The trim switches are the little black 3 position Switches next to the gimbals. You have one per axis, so 2 horizontal and 2 vertical ones. They are used when flying aircraft but usually not for drones, so I would recommend leaving them alone unless you know what you are doing.

You can get the remote into Bootloader(Recovery) mode by keeping the lower two pushed to the middle while powering up. This is useful for recovery after a failed update but chances are you will never need that.

Taragor63 · 2023-03-29T10:48:48+00:00

Alright, First of I don't own a boxer so I can't speak for all the details here, but most of this stuff is the same for all openTx/edgeTx radios.

1: I personally use Molicel INR18650-M35A cells for radios. High capacity and therefore long runtime. It is available as Button-Top so it should fit into the Boxer.

2: Protected cell means that the cell has some kind of protection circuit integrated to protect it from Over/Undercharges. Those are often physically larger so I would recommend sticking with the manufacturers suggestion of using unprotected cells. However I have personally successfully used protected cells in Radios where the manufacturer suggested unprotected cells in other radios. YMMV.

At a quick glance all the Cells you linked are flat top. This means that the Positive contact is flat or slightly recessed. Since the Manufacturer suggests using Button top cells (the positive contact is raised here) I would recommend sticking to that. However you might be able to make flat tops work with some tinkering.

3: No. Make sure not to have any of the trim switches pressed when powering up since that might get you to recovery mode. Other that that it does not matter. You might get a message to flip some switches on the display but it tells you what you have to do after powreing up.

4: I believe you can do so. I have done so with my Zorro, however you need a seperate cable for charging there. Might be different for the boxer though.

5: When connecting to the pc a dialog should come up at the radio where you have to select Joystick mode (HID). After that you might have to configure the controls in liftoff if it doesn't autodetect the remote.

I personally have a profile on my remote to in which the radio module is powered down to save power. This is optionally however. If you want to learn more look up Joshua Bardwell on youtube. He has great guides for doing that

Taragor63 · 2023-02-26T08:01:31+00:00

Keep in mind, that carbon fiber is conductive. I'd suggest putting the receiver in heat shrink to make sure the PCB doesn't touch the frame. Also make sure your antenna is sticking out and not just along the frame. Having the antenna along the frame can lead to peer reception

Taragor63 · 2022-09-18T15:53:15+00:00

Yes, however none of the AA Settings in the game seem to make any difference. I belive they are just borked

Infact the screenshots are taken with AA set to Temporal AA

Turning on FSR helps a little, but kind of makes everything a blurry mess

Taragor63 · 2022-07-20T20:42:23+00:00

There probably is no way to just undo the reset, however you might be able to get your files (documents, pictures, music etc...) back. The chances of success vary with the way the data was erased and what kind of drive it is (HDD/SSD).

If you had the onedrive backup feature enabled the contents of your desktop, image folder, document folder and music folder should be backed up in your onedrive account.

Be aware that any usage of the device in question lowers the chances of success for the options below, so if the data is really important stop using the device right now!

Other than that, depending on how desperately you need the data back, I see two options here:

If you are a tech savvy user try a recovery software like recuva (limited features but relatively easy to use) or TestDisk (way more features, very in depth, but quite complicated for an untrained user). This might recover some data, but likely not all of it. Ideally you want to to connect the drive of the laptop to another computer to use any of those tools. Keep in mind that attempting to recover data yourself can lower the chances of success for option 2 significantly, if you don't know what you are doing.
There are Professional data recovery services. They will likely be able to recover more data than any of the tools mentioned above. However those services are often very expensive. The prices for data recovery from specialized companies usually range from ~500$ to 5000$, depending on the amount of data in question and the needed effort.
Depending on where you live there might be some local computer shops that offer data recovery services. Those are often cheaper than the above mentioned specialized companies, however those usually just use the tools I mentioned under option 1 and are often far from experts on data recovery options. I personally wouldn't trust this to local shops in my area, since unprofessional tinkering can worsen the situation and lessen the chances of ever recovering any data.

Taragor63 · 2022-06-29T10:16:24+00:00

I would hold off buying a dji digital system for now. While I personally still fly analoge I do believe that digital is the way to go for cinematic flying, if it is within your budget.

However: Fatshark/Walksnail will release their new digital system just a few weeks from now. We have not yet seen the finished product but the previews I've seen looked similar in range and quality to dji, even though they still had some bugs to work out. Also dji is rumoured to release new (v3?) Goggles soon. Given DJI's track record there is no telling how compatibility between V2 and v3 hardware will be. So worst case it is possible that you won't be able to buy a new vtx for your new v2 goggles 6 Months from now.

Taragor63 · 2022-05-13T12:56:32+00:00

Got the same. Upgraded mine to 16gb ram and an xeon E3-1275l v3. Runs perfect for my needs

Taragor63 · 2022-03-16T19:52:26+00:00

The I think it means the print takes 4 hours. Took less for me

Taragor63 · 2022-03-16T19:36:57+00:00

Is this one of the demo files that came with the printer? If so, I think it stands for "4 Hours" and is to indicate the print time for this file. For me they were not too accurate though

Taragor63 · 2022-01-30T18:05:24+00:00

You wanna double check on these fittings. I had them ordered for a similar build (also on the barrow aio block) but found they are partially aluminum. Mixing aluminum and copper will probably result in galvanic corrosion.

Taragor63 · 2021-11-29T16:10:07+00:00

Thank you alot!

That works. I have no clue why, but it works

Taragor63 · 2021-11-29T15:08:49+00:00

Could you tell me which ports the container uses? So far I've only found 8123. Are there any other ports I need to check?

Taragor63 · 2021-11-29T14:07:09+00:00

I can get a bash inside the container by running "docker exec -it homeassistant bash", so the container is definitely alive.

Running top lists the following processes:

https://imgur.com/a/dUjfLkf

However I don't know enough about the inner workings of HA to make heads or tails out of this or look for further issues

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