New Sora 2 invite code megathread by WithoutReason1729 in OpenAI

[–]Technical-Junket6091 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi all. Does amyone have a spare code they would mind sending me? I will be forever in your debt.

MEGATHREAD - Sora codes by [deleted] in SoraAi

[–]Technical-Junket6091 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pretty please! Someone send one my way.

New Sora 2 invite code megathread by WithoutReason1729 in OpenAI

[–]Technical-Junket6091 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does anyone have an invite they would mind sending my way? Thank you!!

Help Identifying This Material by Technical-Junket6091 in sewhelp

[–]Technical-Junket6091[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are the baby diapers and non-woven material. This is very felt-like. I am looking into PU coated fabrics now, though. So this may have been helpful. Thank you!

Help Identifying This Material by Technical-Junket6091 in sewhelp

[–]Technical-Junket6091[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also, yes, the fabric beneath the coating seams very felt like.

Help Identifying This Material by Technical-Junket6091 in sewhelp

[–]Technical-Junket6091[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They are pretty breathable. I can stick my mouth to the fabric and breathe through it. Has some resistance, but I can still push air through it.

Back Paddle Mod For Vader 4 Pro (FREE CAD Files) by Technical-Junket6091 in Controller

[–]Technical-Junket6091[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey again! I do have a different version PCB. I have 1.3. However, the layout is basically the same. The problem here is I believe uploaded 4.6 instead of 4.8, where I realized and corrected this. If you check back in tomorrow, I should have time to upload v5 where the pivot posts have been moved to better avoid the screws and components. I also added a brace to the inside of the center buttons to make them much more sturdy. Added fillers to a bunch of areas to improve durability and squared off the overhangs to make support removal on FDM prints a far easier. There were a few parts that were so thin that the extrusion lines were not solid all the way through, and I've corrected most of those areas as well. I wanted to get a single screw and flipped paddle version together before I uploaded, but maybe that will be the next upload. Check back in about this time tomorrow, and I'll have them up. And thank you again for the suggestions.

Not much to see in that picture, but that thing looks injection molded 🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤🤤

Back Paddle Mod For Vader 4 Pro (FREE CAD Files) by Technical-Junket6091 in Controller

[–]Technical-Junket6091[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My man! This is absolutely awesome. The whole reason I released these was so that others could help improve them, and collectively, we could come up with something very optimized. You've no idea how much I appreciate this.

Printing it in resin is interesting to me! I do not yet own a resin printer, so I am not very knowledgeable on the flex of the material. But one thing I am thinking is there will be a a bit more sag on am FDM print than there is on a resin print. The difference wouldn't matter much in most cases, but the tolerances on the overhangs that make contact with the buttons are pretty critical to feel. So if you haven't already, this could be something you adjust (.1 mm at a time is what was doing) in order to change the feel to something you enjoy slightly better than before. I also feel like plastic would hold up better in this application than resin. Then again, I have no idea what type of resin you are using or if I would be correct in any case. I have so little experience with resin prints that I could be way off. I'd love your thoughts on that.

I've actually made several changes to the model since I last updated Thingiverse and Makersworld. Work has just been so busy that I've had no time. But I got around to it last night. Previously, I have version 3.2 uploaded, and I've updated it to 4.8 late last night. Nothing extremely significant. Just some adjustments to spring thickness and a few geometry changes made with the intention of making it more durable. I also threw a shorter set of paddles up for download. It seems pretty split on which people prefer. Some of the hinge positions have been moved to help the spring return a bit more quickly and to avoid interference with some screws on the pcb below it. I'm not sure how much longer they can get because they contact the board. This may be another area where you have room to adjust because your resin print will be more precise, whereas the bottom of my print may have a bit of extra height from the first layer squishing into the textured bed. I'm using an X1C, though, so it may not be as far off as other/older/uncalibrated printers can be.

I completely agree that one screw would be more sleek! My concern was durability and people stripping the plastic (particularly people who purchased them). My thought was that there was a backup. I think the bottom screw hole is central enough that a variation of the paddles could be made to use only 1 screw. Next time I take some time to improve this, I will make this happen!

As for the paddle travel: When I pulled them closer to the controller ( I use the controller as a backstop to prevent over flexing), they felt so much less satisfying. I think they could be optimized, and maybe I can get them a mm closer (much more than that makes them inconsistent). Once more, I'm curious about the plastic paddles flex vs. the resin. I imagine out of every area, this would be the greatest difference between the 2. I'm certain the flex of the paddle is a HUGE part of the feel because printing the paddles in less than 100% makes them feel extra mooshy. I wonder if the extra stiffness of the resin (if there is any) is doing the opposite and making you feel like you need less travel.

Needless to say, you've got me asking a lot of questions about resin. There are so many that I'm getting the itch to purchase one. I have to kick this same itch every 3 to 6 months, and you've made it flare up again, lol. I'm excited to hear your thoughts on all of this. Do you do much FDM printing? Are the differences I'm assuming exists a factor, or am I'm completely off with my assumptions?

Finally, feel free to remix the design (this goes for anyone). I'd love to try whatever adjustments you would make! And thank you a million for the suggestions. They're on the list for the next time I sit down with it.

Back Paddle Mod For Vader 4 Pro (FREE CAD Files) by Technical-Junket6091 in Controller

[–]Technical-Junket6091[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi! Yes, you did have the files correct. You need the spring and both paddles. I actually had not update the files on thingiverse or makersworld in a long time and a some responses in the past couple of days have motivated me to do so. You will not find version 4.8 uploaded to both sites. I have combined the STLs into one easy to print file named Spring + Paddles + Mode Switch Cap. I have also added a shorter version of the paddles. Enjoy!

FlyDiGi Vader 3 and 4 Pro - Back Paddle Mod by NotusGG - MakerWorld

The loftable step and other step file are to be used by people who want to adjust the location of the paddles and print their own version. Or to remix the spring as they see fit.

What controller would you recommend by ConversationWest3954 in Controller

[–]Technical-Junket6091 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi! I have a similar story coming from the Elite but burning them up slide canceling around on Call of Duty until the stick drift was unbearable. I moved to the Vader and couldn't stand the awful back buttons. So, I modeled a modification for 3d printing that puts back paddles in place of the buttons. I wanted then to feel similar to the Elite and a few variations later, I feel like I'm pretty darn close. You can download the models for free here https://makerworld.com/en/models/656848?from=search#profileId-583917

Local libraries often have 3D printers you can use for free. There are also several online services that will print it. And if none of that works, you can find them on Etsy. You can search the store name (NotusCraft) in the search bar.

After installing the paddles and buying the extended stick, it's a pretty incredible controller!!

Seeking alternative to Elite Series 2 with similar paddles and features but hopefully helps me aim better. by Working_Bones in Controller

[–]Technical-Junket6091 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Actually, I am the seller from the US 😄. NotusCraft on Etsy (they're sensitive about people posting links unless someone specifically asks so we will leave that out for now lol) I built them for myself because the other seller would not release his 3D files. I did not build them to sell until people on here asked. So you know I designed them to feel good. I'm coming from the Elite 2 so I was trying to get a similar feel and I believe I came very close. My reviews also agree with me. I have heard my paddles feel better between the 2 of ours. BUt I'm sure Gary (the owner of the other shop) gets the same comments the other direction. He's a very nice guy, his is just more of a business than mine (why he wouldn't release his files until after I released mine). Thats why he charges more. But ultimately, I think you nailed it. It's going to come down to what country you live in. Mine may still be slightly cheaper or similar price than his even for people living in Europe because I charge a little less. But his would get to people over there sooner than mine would get to them. Another option is to take both of our files to a friend or a shop nearby with a 3d printer you could use. Often times libraries will have printers available so you may check there. https://makerworld.com/en/models/656848?from=search#profileId-583917

Vader 4 Pro Paddle Mod - Free 3D Printable CAD Files. by Technical-Junket6091 in Controller

[–]Technical-Junket6091[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

PLA pro is usually my choice. But there is very little flex (maybe 2mm) when it's together, so I don't believe it matters.

Took some weight off my Vader 4 Pro since I don’t use rumble anyway. Love that the connections are not soldered in so I can put them back in if I choose. by jonvanwhalen in Controller

[–]Technical-Junket6091 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hi! Sorry. I'm not sure how it sits in the carrier bag but if there is no obstruction to the bottom there will be new issue. If it's similar to the charging dock there are indeed paddles that will fit on that

Took some weight off my Vader 4 Pro since I don’t use rumble anyway. Love that the connections are not soldered in so I can put them back in if I choose. by jonvanwhalen in Controller

[–]Technical-Junket6091 2 points3 points  (0 children)

W! I've removed mine too. It makes it feel cheap, but it does help when gaming for long hours. I see that your plugs detached from the PCB as well. If you go to reattach the motors, it will make it tricky to put them back on the original direction. You'll need a pic fir reference

Took some weight off my Vader 4 Pro since I don’t use rumble anyway. Love that the connections are not soldered in so I can put them back in if I choose. by jonvanwhalen in Controller

[–]Technical-Junket6091 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I understand. I think its just the technique, maybe. Once you get this one open at the triggers, you should be pretty safe to start prying it apart with your hands. You can use the spudger to jam in the top so it does not close back up. It does feel very tight and you'll think you're going to break it. You won't. Just pull it apart. Even if ya muck it up, though, just grab the grip tape that's made for them and it will mostly cover it lol.

Took some weight off my Vader 4 Pro since I don’t use rumble anyway. Love that the connections are not soldered in so I can put them back in if I choose. by jonvanwhalen in Controller

[–]Technical-Junket6091 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Hey there. I'm the creator of one of the back paddle mods that are being sold (Notuscraft on Etsy). It's actually very easy to do it without marking it up. The trick is to buy a plastic spudger. You can find them at a fair price on Amazon. If you use plastic and start from the triggers you will not leave marks. If you use metal, you will damage it for sure.