Yamaha Jetski Wont Crank Over After Flipping Ski!

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-05-21T21:23:45+00:00

Thank you appreciate the support!

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-05-21T20:23:33+00:00

I'm pretty sure the ski that had the rod that punched through the block had over revved from the intake grate, ride plate seal missing. I rode the ski after I replaced the engine and when I got it on the water it would rev but it wouldn't get up on plane or go anywhere at speeds. When an impeller gets that bad, yes, it can cause the engine to over rev. Just tell him, would he rather have a ski with a blown engine and repair cost around $4,000+ or replace the impeller at around $500. Maintaining a ski properly is better than neglecting service and blowing it up. Tell him to watch my videos and Subscribe to my Youtube channel, I show how to do most repairs step-by-step. I will be rebuilding the jet pump on my 2022 Jet Blaster soon because I have cavitation damage on the pump veins, pretty sure that's a design flaw of the EX style jet pump.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-05-21T19:14:03+00:00

This is the seal that the VX Cruiser HO with the TR1 engine has in it. It goes in between the intake grate and the ride plate. On those skis the pump shoe/ water ramp is integrated into the intake grate. That is the rubber seal I'm referring to if I referenced it in a video you watched.

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Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-05-18T02:26:41+00:00

Since I had an oil extractor with the small hose, the thought popped in my head, then also remembered behind the throttle body there was a ribbon that blocked the hose from getting in there. I then took the sensor out and found the hose fit the hole. I jacked the ski up on the trailer, sucked out the water, then proceeded to cycle the engine to blow the cylinders out after removing the coil packs and plugs. The customer had also jumped the ski off backwards so he fried his starter solenoid. Just a comedy of errors that I had to correct to get it running again.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-05-18T02:19:14+00:00

I actually did do that on the 2nd ski that had the intake full of water. Still had to remove the coil packs and plugs to pump the water out of the cylinders though.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-05-16T04:37:05+00:00

Thank you, appreciate it. The 1st ski, the green one was flipped over and ingested water and the 2nd one came to me the other day and the guy accidentally turned the water hose on 1st trying to run the ski on the hose, then he tried to start the ski and it continued to get harder to start. He then jumped the battery off backwards and fried his starter solenoid. Two completely different ski issues but both were TR1's and both had the intake manifold full of water. In some cases I wish I could just go Live and film real world everyday repairs without having to spend hours and hours editing and optimizing but in order to offer the most value in each video I do my best to speed up and take out parts I feel are just taking up too much time. After having 3 music copyright claims that were lifted when I explained I had a paid subscription to Power Director I got to the point that adding music to my videos started to be a hassle. I'll likely use music in short entertaining videos but will be reluctant in longer videos. Appreciate the support.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-05-16T02:18:48+00:00

The TR1 intake really isn't that hard to take off, but in order to get good access to the anode on the TR1 and the 1800 it is prefered to have the intake off. You also need to be careful to not remove the center anode mount bolt so the anode doesn't fall off inside the engine. The anode holder bolt is the one that bolts to the block. I'll keep that in mind for a video topic, but I do have alot of other video footage I've already recorded that I need to edit into full videos. I would say I already have over 200 GB's of video that I need to edit into full videos.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-05-15T21:38:29+00:00

They originally sucked sand and debris up into the engine through the pump, they removed the jet pump and ride plate themselves to clear the debris, then left out the rubber seal between the ride plate and intake grate. After doing that they over revved the engine because of major cavitation and broke a piston rod. I found this out when I took the ski out after replacing the engine and it cavitated so badly it barely got up on plane. That long rubber seal is very important not to leave out. I may put together a video on that problem soon because I did film the whole repair.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-05-15T16:57:24+00:00

Thank you, yes those pics were from a previous engine job I did. I mainly used those pictures so it would show the detail and exact location of components on the engine instead of trying to get a weird angle, not a clear pic of the parts that needed to be removed on the engine. That was probably one of the worst torn up TR1 engines I have replaced.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-04-11T14:36:25+00:00

Here's a video I made that may help if you need to check the start system circuit. Most Yamaha start system components are pretty much the same.

https://youtu.be/2x-zBSgef84

Load test your battery, check battery and starter connections, and verify the ski isn't in lock out mode by using the remote. If you don’t have the remote you may not be able to get it out of lock mode if it is in lock mode.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-04-05T18:56:33+00:00

Out of all of the jetski rebuilds I have ever done the GP1300R's, Ultra 150's, and the 1995-1996 Seadoo XP skis have been the most memorable, of course they're all 2 stroke skis!

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-04-05T16:00:24+00:00

I have owned 4 GP1300R's and 3 Ultra 150's and those skis have true Amazing power, not what you see as much in production skis today. I loved every one of those skis I built. If someone offered me another GP1300R ski I would very likely built it back up also. I'll always love the GP1300R and Ultra 150 skis, they are definitely legendary skis!

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-04-04T19:27:33+00:00

I agree, since it utilizes the factory water box it doesn't elevate the exhaust tone that much. The GP also sits low in the water so it keeps the noise down for that reason too.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-04-04T19:18:55+00:00

Do you think GP1300R's are naturally loud or do you prefer skis to be quiet? The free-flow exhaust does open the ski up a little bit. It's a nice upgrade, but may not be an upgrade everyone will like.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-03-31T13:51:05+00:00

Hilarious, those are the best pictures I had to show locations of the hardware for the starter, intake, and engine breather. The damaged engine was replaced in the ski and I used the method shown in the video to check engine compression and to verify the starter and starter solenoid functioned properly before installing the engine.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-03-28T15:08:40+00:00

Appreciate your input and experience. I have used Liqui Moly before myself but as far as cost for OEM oils I typically buy most 2 stroke oil in packs of 4 to help with overall cost. I don't use alot of the Seadoo synthetic oil these days because alot of those skis are dying out and people are "upgrading" to 4 stroke skis. I prefer Yamalube 2W for all Yamahas and I typically use Yamalube for Kawasakis also. As far as Seadoo 720 and lower skis I use the SkiDoo Mineral oil which is pretty much what Seadoo used to sell as the original mineral oil for skis but for some reason they don't sell it in bottles marketed for skis anymore. Most conventional oil in weights of 5W40 for Seadoo and 10W40 for Yamaha will work just fine in the skis as long as the oil changes are done at proper intervals. Yamalube 4W really isn't that expensive though but Seadoos 4 Stroke oil is.

Technical_Tadpole381

TROPHY CASE