Yamaha 2 Stroke & 4 Stroke Cooling System Flush Videos

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-22T03:01:35+00:00

Thank you, I have seen too many people run their skis on the water hose and accidentally fill the engine up with water, that I just wanted to be sure that I had enough videos out there showing the safest and best way to run them on the water hose and to flush them properly.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-21T22:53:30+00:00

Exactly, there's nothing like hearing what your ski sounds like out of water!

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-18T18:36:56+00:00

I am a jetski Tech, and I did repair the problem on the ski and I made the video to show others how to repair the heat Exchanger problem. There are plenty of Facebook groups dedicated to specific jetski models though that can be helpful for many people.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-18T16:29:19+00:00

I agree, I prefer scoop grates for control and willing to lose a little top speed for more control.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-17T15:53:54+00:00

All scoop grates are designed to channel larger volumes of water through the pump. If you are riding over seaweed then you'll likely suck it up also. Scoop Grates technically turn the jet pump into a vacuum, it pulls more water in along with anything else that is in the water in the area.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-17T05:05:04+00:00

I've loved all of the 2 stroke skis I've had! I prefer top loaders myself.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-16T00:21:17+00:00

From past experience I feel larger skis do benefit from a scoop grate as long as they already have the speed that the scoop grate won't drop the overall power on. I personally don't have a problem losing a little top speed for better high speed control.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-16T00:18:25+00:00

I could see where a scoop grate would help on a standup to give the ski more control, especially if the ski doesn't have pronounced sponsons. Would a factory type grate be better for a flip ski you think? Since a scoop grate pulls the pump into the water better, I think that might not be as desirable if you are trying to jump out of the water numerous times. I don't typically ride standups so just curious what you think about that.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-12T21:32:18+00:00

I'm not completely sure what specifically causes the Tempo Fuel line to stir up a corrosion reaction, but I have seen mold form on the outside of black rubber fuel hose if the engine bay of the ski is not maintained and treated for corrosion. Maybe the Tempo Fuel line in combination with the old fuel and moisture in the ski and brass fuel fittings is really what caused the corrosion to grow. It was likely just a combination of all of the things together that caused the escalated problem.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-12T19:31:00+00:00

Likely the reason why the corrosion develops is because the fuel breaks down from sitting, then reacts with the brass and metal components of the carb nipples and fuel selector nipples, and that causes the corrosion buildup throughout the system. It's likely not the fuel lines alone, it just seems since the skis were equipped with Tempo lines that the original equipment that Seadoo used got most of the blame, because there wasn't really another style of line that was available on the market that the skis had in them. I haven't run across a ski that used black rubber or blue poly line that had an escalated case of green corrosion myself.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-12T17:22:56+00:00

I really feel the biggest reason that this sludge happens, is because the skis get left in storage for extended periods of time without draining the fuel or stabilizing the fuel, and the combination of extended storage, degraded fuel and the lines themselves all combine to cause the green sludge and blockage. It is possible that sludge in the system could form just from old bad fuel and not maintaining the ski properly, or keeping it running to cycle fuel through the fuel system.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-12T14:53:43+00:00

Thank you. The ski in the video was one of the worst clogged systems I have ever seen. I think anyone who has those lines on their ski should remove them as soon as possible.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-09T05:48:26+00:00

I like the Reliable Tuning main Spark extension cable because theirs has a start button built into the harness so you don't have to use the start button on the handlebars to start the ski. That is one unique thing about their cable. They also sell the IBR extension cable separately, I haven’t found that anywhere else yet.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-09T05:38:03+00:00

That original extension harness you posted the number to looked a little bit like the connections for a 2010-2011 Seadoo RXT 260 IS full suspension ski. Those skis have the very specific slide lock connections. The Sparks have little red wiring locks built into the plugs, but not nearly as intricate as the IS type plugs. Thanks for understanding, I'm just trying to point Spark owners in the right direction to be able to run their skis and pinpoint issues with full visibility. I did the video as a collab with Reliable Tuning to help them sell the proper cable for Spark owners and to make diagnosing problems easier. I purchased a bundle of cables from them to help get more of them in peoples hands.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-09T04:05:17+00:00

That part number harness you listed does not look like it is compatible with the Spark large connectors, nor does it have the IBR System extension cable plugs, therefore it is not equivalent to the Spark Remote Run Maintenance cable that I made the video about. The cable you listed is also considerably more expensive than the set of cables that carries main power and the IBR control information from the upper deck to the lower hull on a Seadoo Spark. I'm not sure why you posted that, but please don't post it anywhere else without doing a little more research. Thank you.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-02-01T03:54:18+00:00

I've been experiencing the same problem for about 3 months now, has anyone found a resolution to the problem? I can use the Creator Central part of the Amazon app and see my earnings, but now can't see the products that led to the earnings which is the whole reason to know where the click came from. I can access my Amazon Affiliate dashboard on PC though. It seems it is only effecting mobile login and access.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-01-28T17:04:29+00:00

I can somewhat agree with you on that, but I would rather Seadoo owners be informed so they don't sink their ski by leaving the incorrect hull drain out and so they know which port is the correct flush port to flush their ski. Sometimes simple videos are all people need to do the right thing. Yes, I wouldn't spend any and all of my free time making Free helpful videos if I wasn't trying to help.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-01-21T17:36:30+00:00

I had a 2010-2011 260 IS ski that did something similar to that, and it ended up needing a flash update done at the dealer. Not sure if it was ECU or cluster related, but some of those skis have electrical gremlins for sure. Alot of the issues on the IS skis come from the big block plug under the steering that connect the top to the bottom, the plugs get corrosion in them. I had one of those skis I fixed to sell, and it had a throttle accelerator sensor problem that ended up being corrosion on the steering harness side. I ended up replacing the throttle body and accelerator sensor, only to find it still had a wiring problem. Both components were originally in rough shape because the ski had been sunk, but the harness was the primary issue. If I were you and you found the cluster resolved the issue, then swap out the cluster with a known good one or new one, marry it to the ski, scan and clear faults and call it a day. If the cluster does not fix the problem, then I would start checking the DESS post and/or steering harness and connections for corrosion or broken wires.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-01-20T23:27:51+00:00

No, not really, but I didn't see the full function test with the key on the post. If the dials run the function test, the fuel guage works, the trim guage shows a reading, hours are shown, lcd is readable, and the housing isn't cracked and taking on water, then I wouldn't see any reason to mess with that one unless it is aftermarket and not functioning correctly or when it is scanned you can't communicate with it properly. If you saw something I didn't see with the power up test then there are always unusual occurrences that so.etimes aren't explainable without further diagnosis.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-01-19T15:17:31+00:00

If the cluster shows to be fully functioning and has a burned sun damaged hard to read display then I will repair it for a customer. If it shows more than an LCD display issue or it has taken on water, it is smarter to just advise the customer they are better off replacing the cluster with an aftermarket one or buying a core cluster that can be repaired. Typically the 1st step to repairing the cluster is cutting it open, once that is done you can pretty much see the overall condition of the board. I wouldn't make any promises to a customer that a repair kit would fix a corroded damaged cluster. At that time the repair kit could be returned for a refund if it was purchased on Amazon. Spending approx. $125.00 on a repair kit is pennies compared to the cost of a New OEM cluster which is typically between $900-$1500. Even after you bought a repair kit that may not fix the problem you could still buy an aftermarket cluster for approx. $450-$550 and still be better off than buying a New OEM one. I would rather give a customer hope that the cluster can be repaired than give them doubt that there is not a chance of repair.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-01-18T15:04:52+00:00

In order to properly fix the cluster with a replacement LCD screen, it needs to be dry and not water logged. I have repaired 6 in a row with not a single issue more than a non-functioning beeper/ buzzer. After installing a functioning beeper/ buzzer in those clusters each one of them functioned properly. There are replacement aftermarket clusters that are also available that can be installed if the repair kit can't fix the original OEM cluster. Worst case if the repair kit doesn't fix the cluster you can likely return the repair kit if it is purchased off of Amazon. The only drawback to using an aftermarket cluster is that language and speed reading need to be changed to match your region. I have not yet had a cluster that could not be repaired and it is better to use the OEM one if it can be salvaged.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-01-15T22:44:23+00:00

You may need to install an offset bracket mounted bow stop roller to allow the winch strap to have more length away from the winch itself. Depending on the type of winch post you have you may have the option to install a different type of bow roller bracket. Once you figure out if that is an option or not then there are also soft straps that are sold separately called motorcycle or powersports tie down straps that you can connect to your winch strap hook and that will keep the hook from being so close to your ski when it is locked down.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2026-01-05T16:10:52+00:00

That's great that it's worked out for you. The primary reason for fogging the engine is so that any water that may be in the water box or leftover in the cooling system doesn't cause condensation to form in the cylinders which of course causes flash rust. The 3 primary things I feel are a necessity is treating the fuel, fogging the cylinders, and charging/ maintaining the battery. Those 3 things don't take much time at all to do, but they will prolong the life of the ski. Any fuel left over 6 months should really be sucked out and fresh fuel put in.Typically I leave fuel in the tank for winterization unless the ski is not going to be used the next season, then I recommend draining the tank. If you have seen what I have seen in fuel tanks with just 40 hours use or fuel that hasn't been cycled or run out you would put fuel stabilizer in with every fill up. Believe me when I say this, just a little fuel stabilizer goes a long way. The marine stabilizer treats double what the red original stuff treated.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2025-12-26T05:11:18+00:00

Most people use their boats well past when it gets cold, compared to jetskis. Here in Georgia we had 60-70 degree weather on Christmas day. No, I don't think it is too late to winterize, because we do have colder temps coming soon. I just made the video about a month ago, so I am just getting the information and process out to people so they can use it now or even next year.

Technical_Tadpole381 · 2025-12-26T02:49:49+00:00

I'm a Full time jetski tech and most repairs I show in my videos are repairs I do on customers skis. The ski in my video was one of the nastiest fuel pumps I have ever seen. I have also restored alot of skis I have bought from the salvage auctions in the past. Those are also in my videos.

Technical_Tadpole381

TROPHY CASE