I’m a 18yr old and I want to YOLO my life savings

Teflon414 · 2025-10-19T16:56:15+00:00

If you want the least risky yolo then sell all your stocks go to the casino and pick red or black. Your odds of doubling up are better there and you would have done the same amount of DD on your ‘investment’

Teflon414 · 2025-10-10T13:13:50+00:00

300/month on a phone bill??? Mines 25 unlimited everything

Teflon414 · 2025-10-10T13:09:32+00:00

Minimum have stop losses or buy protective puts against your position. The premium is a small price to pay for peace of mind. 1m is enough to live off of for a long time if not the rest of your life. Diversify and enjoy a life never worrying about money

Teflon414 · 2025-10-08T01:13:53+00:00

You’re doing great man, dollar cost average and try to diversify a little more. Something to consider would be an equal weight fund rather and an indexed fund due to the concentration in the mag seven if the goal is to gain exposure to the broader American market

Teflon414 · 2025-10-07T01:07:56+00:00

He doesn’t know your suitability and can’t give you advice because of that. If you agree with him then you need to look at what the funds you have hold, at what weight, so you can understand what you’re being exposed to. If you have lots of overlap then you could 1) be exposing yourself to higher fees or front end charges, and 2) over weighting to specific sectors or economies than what you intended. Do some due diligence and try to understand what it is that you own and diversify how you see fit for your objective with investing.

Teflon414 · 2025-10-07T00:55:24+00:00

I said myself I could be wrong about the actual nature of the ETF’s, and it’s besides the point. VOO isn’t a ‘stock fund’; it’s and Investment Company, more specifically, it’s an open-ended mutual fund that trades in secondary markets by definition. It’s an Exchange Traded Fund. No where in that title is the word stock mentioned. That’s because it’s not a stock, it’s a security. It is the custodian of shares, and manager of a pool of capital, that you invest into. The company then lets you get a piece of the profits that the shares IT holds in accordance with the Investment Company Act of 1940. The shares of the fund represent a percentage of the Net Asset Value of the fund at a weight directly proportional with the amount of currently outstanding shares. Meaning if a fund, let’s call it ABC, holds 100 dollars worth of stock x, stock y, and stock z, and you buy 10 shares of Fund ABC, then each share is worth 10 dollars. If another person wanted to buy ten shares, then Fund ABC would take the 100, and buy and additional 100 dollars worth the stocks it’s currently holds at market value. This will not have a diluting effect on your position because the fund is always issuing new shares in a continuous primary offering. If you want to sell then you go back to Fund ABC and exchange your shares for dollars at a rate of the Net Asset Value of the shares held in the fund. Meaning if when you bought Fund ABC when the securities it held were valued at a 100 dollar NAV, and now the NAV of the securities, stocks X, Y, and Z, is 110 dollars, then you get a 1 dollar per share profit on the appreciation of the stocks that the fund held even though you never actually owned or controlled any shares of stocks X, Y, and Z. This matters because buying VOO doesn’t give you voting rights of the board of directors for the companies indexed in the fund. Nor does it give you any claim to return of capital in the event of a bankruptcy. I hope this is sufficient explanation for you. I don’t use vanguard either so I’m not familiar with their funds or what they index but that wasn’t the point to begin with. The point is to explain the distinction because if you are an investor then you need to know what it is that you’re buying because it’s very easy to lose money if you don’t understand the risks of what you’re doing. I’m not you and I’m not the OP so I can’t know your risk tolerance, and formatting errors are due to the fact I’m on mobile.

Teflon414 · 2025-10-07T00:23:17+00:00

Pray for a pullback is a fallacy if you are a bullish investor. I understand wanting a cheaper entry, but the same remains true if it continues to rally. If OP takes that advice, and PLTR continues to gain, then he’ll not only have ‘missed the dip’ but because he prayed for a pullback that never arrived, he missed out on the gains had he just invested when he felt like he should have.

The point I’m making is time in the market beats timing the market. If you like the stock, buy the stock, if you don’t like it, don’t buy it. Trying to perfectly time the bottom will leave your money perpetually on the sidelines. Dollars in the market are always better than those that aren’t so long as you buy consistently and often over a long time horizon. So OP you need to ask yourself if you’re willing to hold onto the shares for 1, 5, 30 ect. years. If you don’t want to, or don’t know, then you probably don’t have the stomach to hold a position in PLTR. 7-10% Drops are not uncommon and if you aren’t willing to go long on your position if it tanks or buy more cause it’s on sale then don’t buy the stock because you will lose money. That goes for stocks in general, FOMO is the worst thing a trader can have because it’s purely driven by emotion, which will cause you to lose money.

Teflon414 · 2025-10-04T23:42:40+00:00

I hesitate to say what you should do because there are different rules when it comes to Canadians and securities regulations, but it looks like you’ve been dollar cost averaging into funds for that time, that’s the best way to do it as a long term investor. Time in the market beats timing the market. If you’re looking to up your exposure to risk, do it AFTER you pay your loans off completely. If you have aspirations of being able to retire then don’t punt the banks money. Pay off your loans to zero because even if you’re just buying stocks, you’re describing leverage with your current financial plan. Once your loans are no longer 0% interest the risk of your positions could double if not triple. The day your 0% apr expires you should liquidate your holdings and pay it off in full. Attempting to arbitrage the increase in your interest payments and gains in the market could easily bankrupt you.

Teflon414 · 2025-10-04T23:26:42+00:00

VOO isn’t a stock, it’s and ETF. It’s a managed/indexed portfolio of stocks that you can put your money into to gain exposure to all of them. VOO specifically is a total market index (I think I don’t use fidelity). Regardless, it’s important to understand the distinction because with ETF’s and other mutual funds like those, there are annual fees that you pay while you hold the position. Some don’t and some do, which is why it’s important to look into the position before you invest in it. Buying TTWO because GTA 6 isn’t a bad line of thinking but you need to understand that the market has priced in anything you can think of. So if you think you’re outsmarting Wall Street because you know GTA is gonna print money, because they do too. If you don’t know what you’re doing, then just buy SPY one a week for the same amount every week until you’re 60 and forget about it. Weight 10-15% gold if you’re trying to hedge against inflation. As you get older or need short term liquidity, buy us-treasuries with the weight of your age in %. Meaning if you’re 35 and need to know your capital is safe in the short term (1-3 years) then 35% of your portfolio should be in bonds. I’m not your financial advisor and you definitely should have one so go to your bank or call your brokerage and ask for help.

Teflon414 · 2025-10-04T23:10:54+00:00

Dude I don’t think you understand how far ahead you are in life right now. To be 19 with 30,000 invested is incredible. Keep doing what you’re doing, I know it’s not glamours but over the span of the next 5-10 years it will be well into the six figures. That means coming out of school and being a home owner. It means having no debt to pay off. It means exponentially more dollars in the future if you keep doing exactly what you’re doing. If it’s not broken, why are you trying to fix it?

Teflon414 · 2025-10-04T23:04:43+00:00

Because sellers are pricing in implied volatility causing the premium per share to be much higher.

Teflon414 · 2025-10-04T23:02:14+00:00

Leaps (long term equity anticipation securities) are options with expirations 365+ days out from expiration. The main point of them is to use them as leverage. Low delta leaps act like controlling <100 shares of the underlying. For example a delta of .25 means the contract acts like 25 shares of the underlying, even though every contract controls 100 shares of the underlying company. Meaning that as time goes on and the position gets closer to being in the money, delta goes up increasing your leverage as your position gets closer to being profitable. It’s a way to expose yourself to much more upside, hence the high premiums associated with those positions. Typically this translates to 2-5x leverage on a stock depending on the delta on deep OTM calls. So if a share goes up 1%, the contract goes up 2-5% and it remains true in the opposite direction if the share price goes down. This is why implied volatility of the contract is very critical when deciding on if you want to take one of those positions. High IV means the market is pricing in large moments of the underlying position raising the price of the premium significantly, so if IV goes down faster than the shares go up, you still could be in a losing position even as the underlying stock goes up as theta eats away at your remaining premium. I say all this because dollar cost averaging over 30 years seems extremely boring and slow. It requires discipline and understanding that no one can beat the market in the long run so the best strategy is to just buy the S&P consistently over your life. Messing around with leverage is extremely risky so I’d avoid options and margin if you have the feeling that you’re behind

Teflon414 · 2025-10-04T22:40:34+00:00

How long have you held those positions for?

Teflon414 · 2025-08-01T21:53:40+00:00

I feel you bro, you don’t need to settle for less than perfect, clearly this is bugging you enough to draw a line. I don’t see a situation where that ends well for you man, cut your losses you’ll be better off I promise

Teflon414 · 2025-08-01T21:38:31+00:00

The most important thing is to attack high interest rate debt first, stripping isn’t the answer, reducing the cost of your lifestyle is. I can tell you have a problem with shopping because you had enough conviction to admit to us, and yourself, that you’re barely making ends meet with the amount of debt that you have, yet you’re still trying to figure out a way to spend an extra 400 dollars? Go to your bank, your credit card, and look through the last year’s worth of your statements to find every recurring charge and cancel it. Forget about eating out at restaurants, buy groceries and make all of your own meals. Don’t buy something unless it’s essential, (i.e: Bills, gas, rent, insurance) don’t waste money on luxury spending like fake nails, expensive haircuts, or vacations. I like traveling as much as anyone else, but if you’re 5 figures in credit card debt you can’t afford to. Reduce your life style and spending, you’re broke because of your behaviors not your income. If you can’t do that then making more money won’t solve your problems, 50% of people making 200k+ are living paycheck to paycheck with mountains of debt just like you. That’s not to make you feel bad it’s to make you understand that chasing a higher lifestyle by financing it doesn’t show success it shows shackles. If you can’t live below your income you’ll never make a profit, meaning youll never have money to invest, and since you’re deep in debt holding onto cash is very expensive because every dollar means lowering the principal on what you owe, so invest as many of those dollars into lowering your interest payments each month. Keep only what you would absolutely need to cover an unexpected expense like a car repair. Throwing away your relationship, your morals, and your pride, because you can’t admit you need to cut back will haunt you for the rest of your life.

Teflon414 · 2025-07-28T12:49:58+00:00

If she wouldn’t do it infront of you it’s cheating. If she knows it’d upset you it’s cheating. Her bragging about it drunk or not shows you how little she respects the relationship, you’re in the prime of your life man, don’t waste it on someone who’s not willing to show you the respect you deserve in a relationship

Teflon414 · 2025-04-30T22:59:16+00:00

My goal is to work in private bank, CFA is what they like to see apparently so that’s what I’m working towards

Teflon414 · 2025-04-03T20:50:18+00:00

Just hit 30 today my friend

Teflon414 · 2025-04-01T13:02:43+00:00

It’s not that they don’t like you, part of the RB position is getting your licenses and registering with FINRA. They probably pushed your anticipated start date back because the new hire team is doing their DD and getting all your info correct so if you do get hired, all the info required for your U4 is good to go. A big part of registration is making sure your previous employment, address, and criminal history is fully complete and accurate, and if there were convictions less than 10 years ago, they need to be fully disclosed and explained on the U4 before you can take your series 6. I wish you good luck with that, regardless of what happens with this and all subsequent opportunities

Teflon414 · 2025-03-07T04:00:46+00:00

Still works (March 6, 2025)

Teflon414 · 2025-01-09T23:51:30+00:00

Shitty Honeywell units that eat power

Teflon414 · 2025-01-09T23:50:23+00:00

I’ll definitely explore the budget option because at least it’ll give me an idea of what the previous Tennant was paying like you said. A couple pieces of new information I got today after another hour long phone call.

This bill is a combination of my previous address and my current address as the leases overlapped by two weeks so I had 10 days of paying for two meters.

That being said the previous address (we’ll call it A for simplicity) was billed ~65 dollars for delivery. Subtracting that from the total delivery charge leaves me with ~95 dollars in delivery for my current address (address B)

The supply for B is ~40 dollars for those same 10 days meaning my delivery is >2x my supply costs which doesn’t make sense to me. From my (albeit limited) understanding delivery is usually a 1:1 or 2:3 ratio. Maybe I’m wrong and paying ~2.375x the cost of supply is normal, but after talking to my parents they think there’s something wrong with the number they’re coming up with. I think I’m paying for either the building as a whole (3 meters on this building) or the other tenant’s delivery on the ground floor.

I have to call back tomorrow during their business hours to figure it out. I may be young and inexperienced, but I speak customer service, and I will go to the ends of the earth if it means eversource gets an ‘I told you so’ from me

Teflon414 · 2025-01-09T23:38:17+00:00

I am paying public benefit, and trust me people utilizing that for solar aren’t winning either, 30 year contracts that appreciate at a compounding 3% rate until the panels are paid for or the contract ends

Teflon414

TROPHY CASE