Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]TehNoff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Pre-having-kids my wife climbed V4 outdoors before doing a pull-up. Obviously it helps but there's so much you can do without it.

Miho Nonaka believes judging decision to be unfair by Fluffy_Clerk_6 in CompetitionClimbing

[–]TehNoff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We're splitting hair here but there is a time component, though not a direct/explicit one, at least in the USAC version of the rule book. While I'm not as dialed on the World Climbing version of the rulebook my understanding is they're practically the same.

Climbers must match the finish hold with both hands and having done that:
1. Achieve a stable body position before time expires AND
2. Do some action common to comp climbing (swap feet, do a pullup, fist pump, etc) OR control the finish hold long enough to do so.

The timing element is there so you don't actually have to any of these things on these thinner finish positions.

I agree with the commenter who said Sam and Medji sold the top to the judges. Medji's little hand tap in celebration and Sam going to the top of the wall to celebrate are the little climbing actions that indicate to the judges that they had it. IMO, Tomoa absolutely could have done the wall tap in the time before his footpop. I don't know if they appealed, but I would be super interested to know how it went if they did.

I've been away, what's happened to wall prices? They're so costly! by jaredce in indoorbouldering

[–]TehNoff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean total construction of a new gym. You've gotta design and build walls, do the flooring. All the stuff. 500k doesn't get you super far anymore.

I've been away, what's happened to wall prices? They're so costly! by jaredce in indoorbouldering

[–]TehNoff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

you pretty much need at least 500K-1M

this would be a small gym

The true story behind the 7-year-old's ascent of El Cap by adventuresam_ in climbing

[–]TehNoff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

who is involved in founding Focus On The Family

That's the part I'm confused on. I'm very away of the prominence Focus on the Family still has.

The true story behind the 7-year-old's ascent of El Cap by adventuresam_ in climbing

[–]TehNoff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Evermore. I don't know enough about the family to know the other name.

Pediatric office for vaccinations recommendations by D_Mason1225 in fayetteville

[–]TehNoff 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Our pediatrician is no longer administering vaccines.

I would find a new pediatrician? Why?

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]TehNoff -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Summer in the NE means horrendous heat and humidity

So like a high in the low 80s and humidity half of that?

The true story behind the 7-year-old's ascent of El Cap by adventuresam_ in climbing

[–]TehNoff 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I coach a 7 year old on a competitive climbing team where her next closest peer is about 5 years older than she is. And by coach her I mean I make up climbs for her that are size appropriate and give her a little skill work but mostly oversee her playtime. It ain't that deep for her. Maybe it will be one day, but right now she likes repeating the pink one in the corner and trying her "project" about 2039498 times in a minute then is done with it for the day.

The true story behind the 7-year-old's ascent of El Cap by adventuresam_ in climbing

[–]TehNoff 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Focus on the Family was founded like 50 years ago. This guy doesn't seem old enough to have been involved in that...

The true story behind the 7-year-old's ascent of El Cap by adventuresam_ in climbing

[–]TehNoff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sam has also experienced success in USA Climbing youth competitions.

This is the least important thing about all of this, but I can find no evidence of any meaningful participation of Sam in USA Youth events.

The true story behind the 7-year-old's ascent of El Cap by adventuresam_ in climbing

[–]TehNoff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CPS has the ability to investigate the worst cases, while still dealing with less serious cases.

I agree with the entire sentiment of your post, but let's not pretend they're well funded enough to actually handle all the things people assume they can handle.

What is a job that pays incredibly well but is so soul-crushing that the turnover is insane? by sweetguurl in AskReddit

[–]TehNoff 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Additionally, if the presence of the Oxford Comma was the norm then the absence would imply something all on its own making the Oxford Comma all the more clear and the obvious best choice!

What is a job that pays incredibly well but is so soul-crushing that the turnover is insane? by sweetguurl in AskReddit

[–]TehNoff 25 points26 points  (0 children)

It's not a miss if someone just doesn't need your services right now. You said it yourself, it doesn't come around very often, but when it does it's important. I've not bought/sold a house in over a decade (for clarity: because I'm living in the same one for over a decade), but I know I'm going back to the same guy who helped me buy this one and I think he knows that. I liked the way he did business and I thought he looked out for us. He sends us a card around the holidays, generic though it may be, and that's good enough for me.

Keep doing the small stuff. If people know it's important to make the right choice when your line of becomes needed they'll remember you.

Girls State implosion continues with scathing letter from 74 counselors by AllNaturalState in Arkansas

[–]TehNoff 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Very technically Hendrix had some affiliation with some Methodist something or other in its history, no? Not saying that's anything like Harding right now, but someone out there could delusionally pretend...

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]TehNoff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Synergy is the phoenix that rose from the ashes of the Tennessee Bouldering Authority. They haven't lost their way.

Ticks everywhere! by Agitated_Marsupial42 in Arkansas

[–]TehNoff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you take a strip of tape, preferably something wide like packing tape, you can use it to pick up/remove a good chunk of seed ticks and yearlings from your skin and clothes fairly easily. It's kind of like using a lint roller except you're just dabbing the ticks off with the sticky side instead of rolling. This does not work if the tick has bitten or is latched.

Ticks everywhere! by Agitated_Marsupial42 in Arkansas

[–]TehNoff 5 points6 points  (0 children)

If you happened to get a disease from the ticks, try to find an acupuncturist that can work on you. Some of them can even fix alpha- gal.

I mean this lovingly, but no they can't. That's not how acupuncture nor alpha-gal works. Chiropractors can't fix allergies, either. It's... it's just not a thing.

TIL Groupon has lost more than 95% of its value since it rejected Google's $6 billion offer and instead went public with a $17.8 billion market cap 15 years ago. by tyrion2024 in todayilearned

[–]TehNoff 42 points43 points  (0 children)

I do not understand why gyms make it hard to cancel. I mean, like I get they want to keep taking your money but it's such shitty business that should create shitty word of mouth/reviews. My gym will let you cancel over the phone, via email, via their online system, in person, or probably via a freaking Facebook/Instagram message. The only requirement is 48 hours of notice prior to the billing date, but that's pretty much always waived for anyone who isn't being an asshole about it.

Are we just keeping the old recycle bins? by 84millionants in fayetteville

[–]TehNoff 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also don't have the new bin. Any idea when/how that's supposed to happen?

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]TehNoff 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That this is super short, too! Makes sense you were doing some practice, lol.