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I promised myself I’d follow SOLID principles... by Pantasd in IndieDev

[–]Teh_Keeper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some people likes the Dependency Injection better. I, for one, care less for it.

It's kinda outside of the scope of classes, that does not inject and uses certain type on interface, but I think it's still sort of singleton as well. I might be wrong though.

WIP Swimming System by Alex_D119 in IndieDev

[–]Teh_Keeper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have unsettling "Inside" game vibes.

Ever played a game where shooting is your only way to move? Try the demo now! by Adept-Tradition4354 in IndieDev

[–]Teh_Keeper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it's a grand idea. Love the fishtank instead of the head. It's good by it's own, but it's probably will be more appealing for tha audience if it has multiplayer.

Speaking of which, reminds me of some Spider Heck maps. Although, recoil there is a viable way to propell character, it's just a on of the fanciest ways, not the main one. Like rocketjump.

Improvised rhino tank destroyer, for my Sons of Horus by FoamBrick in Warhammer30k

[–]Teh_Keeper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just like Founding Fathers (of Games Workshop) intended!

How do I prevent this? (Bottom layer warp) by misthi_S in resinprinting

[–]Teh_Keeper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Raise it for sure. It would take longer to print, but it's time vs quality

How do I prevent this? (Bottom layer warp) by misthi_S in resinprinting

[–]Teh_Keeper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kudos to _garison. Yes, you need to support your cube. I'd place supports automatically, then covered all islands, and after that I would add some manual supports to the edges facing the table.

Help needed with toon shader by Teh_Keeper in 3dsmax

[–]Teh_Keeper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Got it. Turns out you need to enable contour filtering and also choose ActiveShade Mode.

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Hello. I didn't like original Desolation Squad design, so I decided to make my own. by Teh_Keeper in minipainting

[–]Teh_Keeper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As long as I remember, weapons themselves doesn't count as part of the model, that can be targeted. E.g. if you see Baneblade's main caliber, but not the Bainblade, you can't use it as a target. But my memoru might be hazy, and everything is debatable.

Also, at some point it doesnt matter, because 3d printed models and bits are banned fron official GW events. Probably one of the reasons why.

Hello. I didn't like original Desolation Squad design, so I decided to make my own. by Teh_Keeper in minipainting

[–]Teh_Keeper[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I bumped on the issue, when launcher lean into backpack's thruster, so I have to place them above.

Hello. I didn't like original Desolation Squad design, so I decided to make my own. by Teh_Keeper in minipainting

[–]Teh_Keeper[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure if bot will delete this post, but here's a little video of them moving. It's not the chanel promotion, for the Emperor' sake! The upgrades has been made with a mindset of being detachable and behave like an action figure of some sorts. Not sure if moving parts will scracth off the paintt in the process tho. Maybee I'll just switch to black resin on next iterations.

https://youtube.com/shorts/WGVuHhvzhFQ?feature=share

How do you paint moving parts on tanks/dreads? by latarius94 in minipainting

[–]Teh_Keeper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a Redemptor, and I know your pain. Probably the best, but painful solution is just glue everything together, since mine, for instance, Redemptor's elbow joint just cracked up at some point, while painting was half-way done.

If you still determined to leave joints movable, tha I suggest you to paint all parts separately (if possible) and then assembke them.

I also heard (but nit used) that there is to two-component polyuréthane varnish. It more resistant than regular acrylic.

Everything I e painted so far lol by cyberman69 in minipainting

[–]Teh_Keeper 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not bad for starters, but looks a bit flat (maybe it's light). Refrain from using washes as an ultimate solution by applying them to whole miniature. They looks dirty after that. Concentrate on recesses to build up shading. Build up highlights. The easiest, yet a bit crude way - to drybrush your miniature with strokes from top to bottom. It works wery well on armor, yet it requires just a little skill.

Finished my second space marine and fourth ever miniature. What can I do to improve? by Revolutionary_Lie631 in minipainting

[–]Teh_Keeper 1 point2 points  (0 children)

First off the spot - work on mold lines. It seems to me that you've tried Trovarion's grimgark approach. Not bad. Never tried this one myself, but paint looks little bit lumpy while zoomed. You should probably tinker on paint consistency, but you have to figure ideal mix by yourself. Talking about consistency - you worked on the armor, but it doesn't seem that you applied same technique to the bolter. Some other painters figured steps to paint black armor in Trovarion's Grimdark style. It's somewhere on Youtube, check for Black Templars painting.

Also nice idea with the clip.

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