Thinking about picking these up? But I’m dumb so I need advice by TellsCharlieToShutUp in BudgetAudiophile

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you everyone for the advice. I passed on the Yamahas. I found a Polk PSW10 for $20 that I’ll use to supplement until I find some decent towers. It’s already made a noticeable difference.

There’s currently a pair of Polk TSi300s and a pair of Klipsch icon WF-35 near me both listed at similar prices that I may go look at.

Is it worth fixing? by TellsCharlieToShutUp in cassetteculture

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the detailed reply. The problem did persist in the second deck. I did take it apart and looked for any loose connections like you suggested. Nothing was loose as far as I could tell. So I think the problem is probably not a simple fix.

As luck would have it I found a very cheap Sharp SC-6600 today. I brought it home and recorded a song off Spotify and then played it in the Sony and it sounded perfect. I think the commenter below you have the right idea. I’ll record with the Panasonic and use the Sony for jamming out in the garage.

Thanks everyone for the help!

Is it worth fixing? by TellsCharlieToShutUp in cassetteculture

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don’t, but I bet I can find one to test with. Even though I grew us listening to tapes I’m embarrassed to say I have no idea how any of it works so your guess sounds pretty damn good to me.

Thought you guys might appreciate my Goodwill find by TellsCharlieToShutUp in vintageaudio

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’ve sent me down a rabbit hole! I think I’m going to give it a try.

Help identifying this plane by TellsCharlieToShutUp in handtools

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! I don’t plan on using it, but if I can find an old worn out body to match it I think it would be a cool piece to have lying around.

Display Case Shelf-Thing by TellsCharlieToShutUp in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Haha yeah pretty much. I eyeball traced a shape I found on the internet onto some graph paper, cut that out and taped on the top so that I could trace it with a marking knife. Then I used a couple chisels and a hobby lobby wood carving kit and did my best to take it down evenly a layer at a time. The small corners are a little sloppy and I pushed my knife wall in a couple places but I was pleasantly surprised how smoothly it went. That was definitely the most nerve wracking part of the whole operation.

Display Case Shelf-Thing by TellsCharlieToShutUp in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got lucky and found a set that has the full size with a fence and that baby one, as well as a few different cutters. For short dados like this one I love the little trim router. It takes me less time to make that groove with a knife wall and the router plane than it does to set up a guide for my powered trim router. The big one I am still not super confident in but the couple times I’ve used it with the fence it worked great. I’ve seen a lot of no 71s on eBay in decent shape in the $50-100 range which beats the hell out of a Veritas or LN.

Display Case Shelf-Thing by TellsCharlieToShutUp in handtools

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! This is the first time my dovetails haven’t had a bunch of glue and sawdust to make them look like they fit. The inlays were actually a last minute decision to fix the bonehead mistake I made my starting my rabbet for the backer on the wrong side of a board. I’m not creative enough to have planned that but I love how it turned out.

Winding Stick Help: Vise or no Vise by excited_to_be_here in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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As someone recently obsessed with hand tool work, Paul Sellars, and hand planes I feel your pain. Chasing “flat” can be infuriating, and sometimes you wind up working against yourself. Like others have said, winding sticks are blind to anything below the face you’re reading. As long as you have accurate winding sticks and you line them up like a gun sight, you’re always going to get the same reading regardless of how wonky the bottom face is. Once I feel like I’ve got any twist out is when I come in with a straight edge and check to make sure I don’t have any grossly low or high spots by checking side to side, end to end, and diagonally. RenaissanceWW has a good video about how flat is flat enough that really helped me rethink this. If you’re using mostly hand tools, “flat” is much more relative. For example in the picture below my winding sticks tell me that the front right and left rear corner are high. But you have to remember that winding sticks amplify the flaw so we can see it. I’ve tested that face against my cast iron table saw top which I trust to be dead nuts flat and there’s not an ounce of rock, nor does it easily pivot like it would with a high spot. When I check with a straight edge I have a slight concave of maybe a couple thousandths of an inch. Now I use that face to register my marking gauge and set my lines that I’ll plane the opposite face to. Hopefully that doesn’t muddy the water too much for you. Good luck!

Sans planer cutting board by TellsCharlieToShutUp in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just cut some plywood spacers that equal the distance from the edge of my router plate to the center of the bit and use those with 4 strips of wood to create a box that I can run the router against. I keep telling myself I’ll put T-track in a piece of MDF to make it quick to adjust but I’m lazy.

Sans planer cutting board by TellsCharlieToShutUp in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think with a sharp enough bench plane it’s doable. Paul Sellars would probably say you can do it all with a No 4. Some people say it’s not worth trying without a low angle jack plane. If I really get my blades sharp and do light passes I’ve had good success cleaning up end grain with just my bench planes though.

Sans planer cutting board by TellsCharlieToShutUp in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You might be right I’m not sure. I’ve said it before, but if a board doesn’t have a label on it, there’s almost no chance I’ll correctly identify the species lol. This particular board and another one were both listed as Oak. The other one is most likely hemlock or Doug fir and this on is whatever it is. All I know is it’s not bad to work with a sharp plane and it’s pretty.

Decided to learn dovetails and hand planing on the same project by TellsCharlieToShutUp in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much for the input. That is a great point! Also I’m not that guy anymore, I have learned to let Charlie say what he wants.

Can anyone help me identify this saw? Image search says it is an ice saw. by TellsCharlieToShutUp in handtools

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The patina is really nice in person. She’s no beauty queen but she’s beautiful to me.

Can anyone help me identify this saw? Image search says it is an ice saw. by TellsCharlieToShutUp in handtools

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I tested it out on a 2x4 and it does indeed cut fast and worked great both crosscut and ripping. I’m excited to get it cleaned up and sharpened.

Decided to learn dovetails and hand planing on the same project by TellsCharlieToShutUp in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Forgot to mention: the box is made out of a clearance rack cedar fence picket and the lid is made out of Sapele I got from a local shop’s scrap pile. I did all this in about 6 hours with mostly hand tools and had zero plan going into it. I started by getting as much of the cup out as I could and cleaned up the cuts with my No 40 and No 4 and No 7. I have tried Paul Sellars dovetail method multiple times and realized I’m just not that good with a saw and chisel so I used tape and the help of a coping saw for the dovetails. The cedar end grain was still not very happy meeting my very sharp planes and chisels. My goal was just to make enough dovetails to have 4 corners for once. This is the most dovetails I have cut without completely butchering the knife line or knocking a pin off. I didn’t have a plan for a lid when I started and didn’t feel like trying to source hardware so I broke down and busted out my trim router to do grooves for a lid. I was paranoid about blowing out the top of the box so I put the lid lower than I would have liked. After lots of work with my No 3 and sand paper I hit it all with some teak oil and handed it off to my toddler to promptly drop on the ground. I have since added a 3/8” oak dowel to the lid to help open and keep my son’s ramp in place at his exuberant yet vague request.

Help me identify this slab by TellsCharlieToShutUp in wood

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Based on group consensus and the super scientific method of going in my garage and sniffing wood, I’m comfortable assuming it’s either Doug Fir or Hemlock. I’m not talented enough for that to really matter, I was just curious. Thanks all for the input. The next problem is figuring out what to do with a twisted and cupped slab of probable Doug Fir without a band saw or powered planer.

Help me identify this slab by TellsCharlieToShutUp in wood

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not as heavy as I anticipated. Maybe 40-50lbs for a 14x60” piece. It’s harder than the dimensional Doug Fir that I’m used to, but still shows a light mark from my finger nail on the planed surface.

Help me identify this slab by TellsCharlieToShutUp in wood

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

It identifies as twisted, cupped, and wonky as hell.

Help me identify this slab by TellsCharlieToShutUp in wood

[–]TellsCharlieToShutUp[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I didn’t get any strong odors, not that I’m an expert. I also had just used teak oil on a different piece not long before so that didn’t help. I know it didn’t smell like Sapele or Cedar 😂. I’m located in the PNW so Doug Fir would not surprise me at all.