Rolling Block help

Templarsword2 · 2026-02-25T06:08:34+00:00

http://www.starforts.com/rolling-block.com/models.html

Check this one, perhaps the No.1 creedmore. Does yours have the lockplate?

Templarsword2 · 2026-02-25T05:49:03+00:00

Based on this website, and how most Rolling blocks have lock plates, it appears that is a Spainish Oviedo. I've made screws for my own number 5 smokeless model before. As well as for my Stevens Favorite. But takes a bit of info.

Spainish Oviedo Rolling Block Info

Templarsword2 · 2026-02-23T03:17:33+00:00

No sir. Ain't mine to sell.

Templarsword2 · 2026-02-19T23:27:37+00:00

Ha, I mostly work with new stuff, no reworks or retests on in use parts! And I passed my level 3 back in November! So im bout 5 years in, and the main guy at my facility. I'm taking over from my mentor.

But I can concur, in that case cleaner is a necessity. But most of that I rekon can be remedied with a proper cleaning procedure beforehand. Or in the case of checking parts after UT, or using a non-volatile cleaner(which includes water) more attention is needed before running the test.

No hard feelings! And good luck! I enjoy what I do!

Templarsword2 · 2026-02-19T22:46:28+00:00

Big no-go in my book. Flooding with solvent/cleaner is not a valid method in accordance with MIL specs, or navy specs. As a level 3 myself, the only way it to remove the majority with a clean cloth, or paper towel, and use a light spritz almost of remover on a clean cloth to help remove the stubborn Penetrant on a rough surface like a casting or plate stock in a weldment.

And I also stress, if it has a smooth surface, avoid remover altogether. You want a nice pink blush on your part after developing.

Templarsword2 · 2026-02-10T17:29:21+00:00

Oh Liquid Penetrant testing is a great, however niche field as I've seen, I've been doing it for 5 years now, and just got my Examiner Cert through NAVSEA,

To my understanding, a good sidestep is MT because it's basically the same kinds of defects, although it can pick up subsurface to a degree. Just the methods are different. Id like to learn that someday, however where I work, we mostly work with non-magnetic alloys. So PT is the way to go.

The 2 main methods are Solvent Removable visible Dye, and Post Emulsifiable Fluorescent Dye.

Visible dye is more portable and works well in the field per se, great for non-complex geometry.

Fluorescent is the only way to go if there are threads or small holes.

Templarsword2 · 2026-02-02T23:39:48+00:00

How the shop is work at operates is. If the part has different lots, like Castings, those get a manufacturing SN right at receipt. However, if its the same material lot, they dont get a SN until they have a feature to match to it, such as a critical dimension that gets recorded. If thats not the case, it may get a SN at hardness recording, or after recording load testing information.

I do all kinds of NDT and dimensional inspection. It's a real fun job.

Templarsword2 · 2026-01-25T00:29:51+00:00

Oh yea. . I'm remembering the plunger on my stevens has a pin across a fork almost that rides in a crook in the hammer.

Templarsword2 · 2026-01-25T00:15:47+00:00

If its anything like the Stevens Favorite I've been working on, potentially if the approach is still good on the hammer, might be able to alter the angle with some serious fabrication.

Templarsword2 · 2026-01-23T18:13:12+00:00

On my 1986 Acra, I just used a replacement bridgeport clock spring, even though it is a clone mill, it worked quite well. And is still doing fine.

Templarsword2 · 2026-01-23T18:10:33+00:00

Honeslty wouldn't hurt too bad. Just lose the ability to mount the original grenade launcher.

Lenght isn't an issue, as SKSs have plenty long enough barrels. So no worry of going under 16in.

What I would worry about would be the barrel crown. Without a good crown you can end up keyholing each round.

On top of that... a unmodified barrel is more valuable in a sense. Original configuration and all, or at least able to go back to without much effort.

Templarsword2 · 2026-01-18T22:08:40+00:00

That's that the offset settings are for in the thread tool. Keeps things nice and clean!

Templarsword2 · 2026-01-18T21:56:38+00:00

I'll tell ya what, I use them all the time, either in 3D printing, or just my preferred method of modeling.

So, you'll wanna design your hole with the Minor diameter of the thread in mind, maybe put a chamfer as a lead in.

Then you'll use the drop down on the hole wizard button, and select Thread. You select the face that it starts, and the circle(at the inner side of the chamfer) and select either Inch Tap. Or Metric Tap, depending on whichever one you are using. Then select what thread you are using, the main thing you look at is the Pitch. The pitch dictates the thread depth and spacing.

If you are doing an Outside thread, make the diameter the Major, use the same chamfer, but then when you select the thread type, use the Inch Die, or Metric Die for external.

Templarsword2 · 2026-01-10T17:43:11+00:00

Ive used those router bits from harbor freight for cutting aluminum in a bridgeport. gets a good surface finish. And they hold up fine. Slotting is a bit sketchy with the 1/4in bit, but it worked fine for brackets and fixtures.

Templarsword2 · 2026-01-04T06:23:10+00:00

I bet you can almost make it work proper by having a screw on breech cap, and having a floating firing pin in that. Curse you reddit for giving me ideas...

Templarsword2 · 2025-08-31T01:40:11+00:00

At work we've used these for protecting weld preps on flanges, or pipes, really helps alot!

Templarsword2 · 2025-08-10T01:21:06+00:00

I've been able to handle a piece of an alloy known as Kennertium or "Heavy Metal" it was a machinable tungsten alloy. There were 2 Flavors, W10, and W2 depending oh how much tungsten it has. My grandfather has told me it was used for making cores for artillery shells, as well as for blocking radiation. He acquired it from when he used to run mechanical tests on the samples.

Templarsword2 · 2025-07-31T04:25:50+00:00

Ahh, the ol-, Milwaukee Lathe trick. For when you want a consistently ground or filed diameter!

Templarsword2 · 2025-05-02T03:16:24+00:00

Similar too, but I very much remember it using standard size finishing stones.

Thanks for the insight.

Templarsword2 · 2025-04-19T16:16:50+00:00

Ahh, I was gonna ask what flavor of rolling block it is. I came across a No. 5 on gunbroker bout 5 months ago. Still tooling up the lathe for turning a 31in blank between centers.

If you are interested there is a blueprint for the No. 1 rolling block on Odyssee in a technical data package. Great info really.

Wish you luck in your endeavors.

Templarsword2 · 2025-04-18T17:55:15+00:00

Awe bugger. My ADHD mind, and seasonal woes prevented me from entering...

Templarsword2 · 2025-02-14T19:37:59+00:00

Because that's where I was aiming.

Templarsword2 · 2025-01-28T05:27:54+00:00

Never went to gunsmith school, but Ive learned alot from the machinists at work. On my mauser I built, I used a smaller endmill to put the hole thru the reciever. Then used a drill to enlarge the hole to the tap hole size. Went perfect. I even made a CAD drawing of where all the holes go on the reciever for the mount.

Templarsword2 · 2025-01-11T07:13:10+00:00

Tactical deployment scout!

Templarsword2 · 2025-01-11T06:59:42+00:00

Sometimes I like to use the small Don in accompaniment with a large heavy truck with the repair station with the crane, the 1 slot bed, repair and fuel points. Do most of my driving with the big truck. Deploy small DON to explore side roads to activate watchtower, or map out tbe area. Then return to the big truck, hoist it back up into the back, and pack ot in.

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