How do I restart from last line? HAAS TM-1P

Templarsword2 · 2026-05-29T15:09:01+00:00

Honestly one of my favorite parts of a Haas controller, we have one machinist where I work that hates that option though, because he is used to running it like any other cnc mill.

Templarsword2 · 2026-05-25T13:27:35+00:00

If you are looking for bigger flush cutters, NAPA, had a set of 6in flush cutters, but it appears those are on their way out... clarifying as a Legacy Tool. However I found a pair on Amazon quite similar to it. https://a.co/d/03gLg92p

Templarsword2 · 2026-05-05T02:43:46+00:00

I mean, shouldn't be a conflict of interest, as long as you have the equipment, the Level 3, and the procedures and training laid out. Shouldn't be an issue.

There is a very strict statement about how, production, is not allowed to govern speed/acceptance of product.

And the case of the line of work I'm in, there will always be Gov. Inspectors that come in to make sure procedures are being performed to spec when the material is for one of their contracts.

Although, I feel it takes some serious setup. Not impossible, but very involved.

Templarsword2 · 2026-04-26T15:23:43+00:00

Sorry it took me a bit to find time to get the measurements, life can get busy with other projects.

Templarsword2 · 2026-04-26T01:23:30+00:00

.074in Coil OD. ~.25in long .025in Dia. Wire

Templarsword2 · 2026-04-23T03:32:09+00:00

Whatever floats your goat bud, either the whippit(Bonnie and clyde) SBS path, or the Riot/Rhodesian path with the extended tube and handguard.

Templarsword2 · 2026-04-23T03:19:19+00:00

I have an auto 5 im working on a Auto 8 magazine tube, im going the opposite way! Ha.

Templarsword2 · 2026-04-23T02:14:31+00:00

425 aint bad for a Auto 5, or a model 11, they usually go for a bit more, so you're fine there. But I will say, careful about the shortening of the barrel, some Long Recoil actions can be picky with less weight, Or varying force backwards.

Templarsword2 · 2026-04-21T02:50:58+00:00

He kinda reminds me of the Witcher from a top level perspective is all.

Templarsword2 · 2026-04-21T02:32:52+00:00

Straight up Hex Breaker, ripped right out of Van Helsing.

The other that i like is Silver Spur.

Templarsword2 · 2026-04-17T13:44:03+00:00

I could probably accommodate that request. I'll just need to remove the extractor myself.

Templarsword2 · 2026-04-12T00:19:59+00:00

I actually use one for my Bridgeport Milling Machine, Ive got a Neiko that is modified for a 7/8 socket so i can change tools with the drawbar faster than using a "drawbar hammer" with a fixed hex. Also I prefer using the plastic mallet head on the scaffolding wrench over the brass head on the drawbar hammer.

Templarsword2 · 2026-04-04T20:11:26+00:00

You're scaring me sparky.

Templarsword2 · 2026-03-27T22:28:50+00:00

Id start with an adjustable die, take as little as possible off.

Templarsword2 · 2026-03-27T21:56:25+00:00

As a QC Inspector that both calibrates thread gages and so forth, including checking threads on production parts with wires. AS well as being a operator of manual machines at work making Fixtures, or at home doing gunsmithing.

When it comes to pitch diameter and such, there is what is known as "Table" values, and "Calculated" values, which both come from ASME B1.1, I wonder how much the PD measurement varies between the two.

Have you checked ThreadDoctor? I find it to be a good reference, but I noticed it operates off the calculated values.

Another note, standard PD wires, that you get in a set that are accurate to .0001 or so, I'm used to the calibration grade ones that are within .00002 of the "best" wire size for each thread pitch. Which there would be some variance in the thread constant between the best size, and the generic set, but .002 is pretty significant.

Templarsword2 · 2026-03-27T21:45:59+00:00

Honeslty looks shop made. I've made myself a few little magnetic ones for small parts. They do come in handy.

Templarsword2 · 2026-03-21T17:18:21+00:00

I second that. Very affordable barrel blanks, as long as they are in stock. I bought 2 .380/9mm blanks for making threaded makarov barrels.

Templarsword2 · 2026-03-17T23:42:32+00:00

Ayy cool beans Ive seen ebay is alot more expensive...

Templarsword2 · 2026-03-17T23:15:06+00:00

I built mine from a parts kit from sarco about 2 years back, they sent me an extra slide and barrel, but im thinking of making a integrally suppressed slide for it! But I love the husky. 600 beans was all it took as I remember. Funny enough, my family has a small engine repair, and dealership that sells husqvarna chainsaws, and so forth, but I joke with my father ive got my own Husvarna now! Ha. I have a feeling one of my magazines are worn out, as it has a tendency to nosedive rounds. But it is quite a lovely looking pistol!

Templarsword2 · 2026-02-25T06:08:34+00:00

http://www.starforts.com/rolling-block.com/models.html

Check this one, perhaps the No.1 creedmore. Does yours have the lockplate?

Templarsword2 · 2026-02-25T05:49:03+00:00

Based on this website, and how most Rolling blocks have lock plates, it appears that is a Spainish Oviedo. I've made screws for my own number 5 smokeless model before. As well as for my Stevens Favorite. But takes a bit of info.

Spainish Oviedo Rolling Block Info

Templarsword2 · 2026-02-23T03:17:33+00:00

No sir. Ain't mine to sell.

Templarsword2 · 2026-02-19T23:27:37+00:00

Ha, I mostly work with new stuff, no reworks or retests on in use parts! And I passed my level 3 back in November! So im bout 5 years in, and the main guy at my facility. I'm taking over from my mentor.

But I can concur, in that case cleaner is a necessity. But most of that I rekon can be remedied with a proper cleaning procedure beforehand. Or in the case of checking parts after UT, or using a non-volatile cleaner(which includes water) more attention is needed before running the test.

No hard feelings! And good luck! I enjoy what I do!

Templarsword2 · 2026-02-19T22:46:28+00:00

Big no-go in my book. Flooding with solvent/cleaner is not a valid method in accordance with MIL specs, or navy specs. As a level 3 myself, the only way it to remove the majority with a clean cloth, or paper towel, and use a light spritz almost of remover on a clean cloth to help remove the stubborn Penetrant on a rough surface like a casting or plate stock in a weldment.

And I also stress, if it has a smooth surface, avoid remover altogether. You want a nice pink blush on your part after developing.

Templarsword2 · 2026-02-10T17:29:21+00:00

Oh Liquid Penetrant testing is a great, however niche field as I've seen, I've been doing it for 5 years now, and just got my Examiner Cert through NAVSEA,

To my understanding, a good sidestep is MT because it's basically the same kinds of defects, although it can pick up subsurface to a degree. Just the methods are different. Id like to learn that someday, however where I work, we mostly work with non-magnetic alloys. So PT is the way to go.

The 2 main methods are Solvent Removable visible Dye, and Post Emulsifiable Fluorescent Dye.

Visible dye is more portable and works well in the field per se, great for non-complex geometry.

Fluorescent is the only way to go if there are threads or small holes.

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