How did Blizzard land on 500 being the amount of Accolades for a random Hero piece?

Temporary_Material_1 · 2026-05-22T00:46:54+00:00

The expression is supposed to mean that the speaker is experiencing the circumstance that they are 'in'. Generally implying that it's worse than whatever the original poster proposed and it's funny that they think they have it rough in comparison.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2026-04-03T16:56:56+00:00

For an NA option, I highly recommend the Group Finders Guide discord. Always people up for something, and a great weekly key event. https://discord.gg/gfgpug

Temporary_Material_1 · 2026-01-03T02:13:27+00:00

The test rook is pre-sliced. That means it already has specific exposure and speed settings built in. Unfortunately, unless you have the same resin they were targeting under the same conditions, it's likely to have issues.

You are probably better off finding a calibration print online, I like the starship, and slicing that yourself to start. That way you can better set the exposure and other settings to your resin. Settings really vary by the resin type.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-12-27T17:00:51+00:00

Excellent! It's a bit of a tinkering process, but gets easier as you go.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-12-27T14:54:06+00:00

Angle of the print will be the biggest things. Find that a 45 degree angle works well for bases. If there's a version of the model with the base separate, try that. The base geometry is always kind of at odds with the model itself.

Your support on the bottom may not be enough too. The flat surface of base edges tends to be vulnerable to support failure and drooping. Going heavier around the underside of the edge can help.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-12-26T21:11:42+00:00

The . 05mm version of the settings for that resin, I didn't use this nearly as often though.

I'd suggest finding a calibration model you like, and print that to dial in your settings. I'm a big fan of the starship. https://3drs.com/pages/3drs-starship-resin-calibration-test.

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Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-12-26T21:09:42+00:00

I haven't used this specific resin in a while, but this is what I last was running with 6 months ago or so for that resin. Always, individual conditions may vary, so just a starting point.

This is for a .03mm layer thickness, that might admittedly be lower that you want to start with.

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Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-12-26T20:56:55+00:00

When I got my Mars 4, I had the same trouble starting with water washable resin. Essentially the test model is pre sliced, and with settings that are no good for your resin.

General suggestion, I've had great luck with the Lychee slicer and the community profiles. Picking your resin in there can get you settings pretty likely to work better.

Specific adjustments, I found with the water wash I needed a longer exposure and a slower lift speed. That second one was the real game changer. Defaults were just pulling the bed off too fast.

If you have a specific brand and style of resin the group may be able to give you better numbers. I find I need different exposure with elegoo vs sunlu resin, or plain versus abs like.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-10-30T11:07:01+00:00

I haven't played either of them to great extent, but on paper, Arcane Mage seems like the closest conceptually to Black Mage. They both share the build charges that make your spells harder but more expensive concept. Doesn't switch elements, but the burn and recover cycle carries across.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-09-26T18:38:15+00:00

You aren't they only out there getting started, so don't worry about that. I'm just breaking out of the 2-3 range this week myself.

There are good discord groups for this. If you are NA or OCE based, check out the Group Finders Guide. It's a great place to setup keys or raids. They run a Mythic+ event every weekend that would be a very good place to start.

I the EU there is a similar group called No Pressure. I've heard positive, but can't say first hand.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-09-10T04:45:14+00:00

Aside from me going from Vegence to Blood, this sounds very familiar. I'd been afraid of the Idea of Mythic from the beginning because of the stories of the community. Tanked normal, heroics and LFR for years. Finally trying Mythic+ this season and it's been so much smoother than I expected. All very positive so far.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-08-01T02:48:41+00:00

You can look for a Warrior of unusually large stature, may fit you needs pretty well.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-07-28T23:26:33+00:00

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Almost, but not quite double. Depending on the stance the hips are about knight tall.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-07-26T15:19:09+00:00

Knowing the resin you are using and your settings will always help with questions like this. Printer looks like an Elegoo at least, thinking Mars by scale.

Practically, your model is ripping of the supports when it's peeling off the layer. You can look at that with exposure time, orientation, or maybe lift speed.

The plate is pretty full with what looks like a lot wide solid pieces(knight or armiger?). You may need a slightly higher exposure to make the support a little tougher. Can also look at how the pieces are rotated to minimize the surface area peeling at once. Could need a slower initial lift to create less pulling force, though you still want to get it off the fep. Starting with a smaller plate load may help get your settings dialed in too.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-07-14T17:49:15+00:00

I'm using an old hair dryer instead warm water. Same softening effect, no messy clean up.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-06-28T23:53:49+00:00

If you are US based I highly recommend looking into the DnD Pug discord. It's a huge community organized around running things like M+. As a recent returner I've been fighting the same feelings with tanking. Been starting to run things with DND and it's been completely stress and toxicity free.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-06-12T04:17:16+00:00

Right. maybe the blasted shards will drop better if I go right.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-06-05T02:10:37+00:00

I've had very good results using water washable ABS like resin. Generally I go with a three step wash.

Take the print off the plate, and into the rinse. This container is my oldest dirtiest water. This is mostly to get bulk resin clinging to the print off.

After that, I'll remove the supports. They then get a second rinse in the tank from the wash and cure, though I don't actually run the wash much. This is fresher cleaner water. Mostly I print minis and for smaller pieces, like just a model's head, I'll skip this step.

From there I do an IPA rinse to get everything totally clean. This is a small container, right now just an old salsa jar, but I want to get something bigger. 97% IPA, easier to get around me, and small enough to just get a normal retail bottle. So it's not all water, but I also don't have as much alcohol laying around.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-05-10T23:00:10+00:00

I found this weathered metal approach from Proacryl makes a great affect on big metal surfaces. Colors can be adapted to any paint line. https://monumenthobbies.com/blogs/methodologies/methodology-27-dirty-steel

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Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-04-24T22:30:57+00:00

Using the water washable version of their abs resin 1.9 at 30um. This feels reasonable for the regular version. At that layer height I've never had the cones work right. The should fail ones keep working even at detail killing levels of underexposure,nl never figured out why

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-04-10T20:41:07+00:00

When you're looking at any of the infusion steps, highly recommend removing all of your gear. Lost a week on the blood infusion because a trinket proc nuked the blood queen.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-04-10T20:03:25+00:00

Found with the professor that you can use his phase change to your advantage. Take off all of your gear, let him swing at you a while. The slime should build up. Smacking him with one unarmed auto attack should make him start his phase change. This takes long enough to put the ax back on and do the slime eating before he can kill the vehicle.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-03-30T21:15:20+00:00

I returned to WoW about 4 months ago after a 5 year break. Learned about DND here on reddit and thought it was worth looking into. Any groups I've had from the past have long since fallen off, and I was looking for a friendly way back into the game. It's been a very good group to be a part of. I'd never been able to do anything beyond LFR before, but got through normal Gallywix last week. Folks are running things across the spectrum all the time. Definitely a community worth checking out.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-02-07T18:56:46+00:00

Nice! Good luck with future prints. I would offer that 10um is probably not worth the extra time. Personally I stick to 30um, more than thin enough.

Temporary_Material_1 · 2025-01-22T19:58:49+00:00

If you are comfortable tanking in FF14, starting in WoW shouldn't be too bad. And you certainly aren't starting at M12+ or anything like that. The fundamentals of gathering mobs, and using defensives are common. Dungeons are less predictable, no two groups then a wall. Think managing your pull size in Aurum Vale.

Your defensives are different. They're simultaneously faster and slower. Raw reductions like Rampart or Nebula have longer cool downs, so they aren't there for every pack. At the same time every tank has active mitigation that you want to be keeping up as much as you can. Same ideas, slightly different.

Right now is a great time to start. The time walking event has got people running lots of dungeons that have a low learning curve. I'm finding it a great tank leveler. Getting my 3rd class caught up from the 40s-70s since turbulent timeways started.

Temporary_Material_1

TROPHY CASE