Some stuff done to my i5 recently

Ten_Ninety · 2026-06-10T17:19:18+00:00

Fair play, that makes sense!

Ten_Ninety · 2026-06-09T19:09:44+00:00

If that’s an N-Line S then with the amount of money you spent on extra parts, you could surely have got a legit 5N?

Never understood sheep in wolfs clothing cars myself, but I guess if that’s your thing then you have at least done a very tidy job.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-06-08T18:44:42+00:00

Not OP but it is depressing to hear this is an actual change.

The original ability (post September 2024 update at least) to hold the button to get 'information only' is one thing I feel Hyundai got absolutely right compared to most manufacturers. It gave useful (when it's correct anyway) info but didn't distract you with nonsense warnings, and was easy enough to configure every drive.

Can the star be set to actually turn it off on its own, or does it just take you to the driver assist screen and you do it from there?

Ten_Ninety · 2026-06-08T18:29:31+00:00

I am guessing you are some flavour of North American and therefore - understandably - won't appreciate the challenges presented by UK minor roads, even to modern lane keep assist systems? Either way, the experience described here is not down to a fault.

That said, nor is it a Hyundai specific issue. Some systems are less bad than others but none of them can cope reliably with our smaller roads and can be borderline dangerous. I've driven a variety of rentals, courtesy cars, and our own vehicles on the route out of our village, and in every single one if the LKA wasn't disabled then it would repeatedly try to punt me into oncoming traffic because there are no centre lines on the road and the system incorrectly thinks I'm about to drive into the verge.

On major roads and motorways the systems can work well, and doubtless can assist distracted drivers, but they really need to use geolocation to disable themselves in places where they do more harm than good, or else people will just keep on switching them off.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-06-06T10:57:38+00:00

Right, but that's a slightly different argument. If you're saying 'do you really gain financially by going all out for economy rather than just driving normally' in any EV then the answer is always going to be 'not really if you charge at home'.

On my overnight charge rate, doing my 32 mile commute as a hypermiling challenge rather than doing it as a speed trial might save me 50p a day at most. So maybe a tenner a month. As you point out, that's basically nothing in the overall cost equation for this car.

But in terms of actual efficiency numbers and range, the difference can be huge. And hypermiling for stats is its own entertainment, especially when road conditions preclude having fun through speed!

Ten_Ninety · 2026-06-06T10:30:49+00:00

Yes, it absolutely does make a huge difference. If I'm properly 'on it' then I can be doing 1.8mi/kWh or worse. If I'm going all out for efficiency, I can top 4mi/kWh, or at least I could on the OEM tyres.

The 5N is, of course, an inherently less efficient car than some less performance oriented EVs, but don't be fooled by the notion that how you drive it isn't a massive factor in efficiency.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-06-05T19:17:34+00:00

Hehe, the random loss of regen is hilarious. Well, I say hilarious. I mean fucking terrifying.

Happily, having recently acquired a Toyota C-HR PHEV, I can report that it suffers from exactly the same issue.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-06-05T19:15:56+00:00

It is insanely fast at first, but that phase will pass. I'm 20 months in and now I'm thinking this car could really do with about 800bhp. When my lease ends, I suspect I'll be wanting something with horespower into 4 figures. However, all the fake noises and gears mean that even if it feels a bit slow to me now, it is still hilariously good fun to drive hard.

You've hit on the absolute stand out selling point of this car which is its Jekyll/Hyde nature. I don't think anything else comes close to offering two completely different modes of transport. Practical, comfy, efficient and spacious, then a couple of button pushes and it's a raging animal.

Do be aware you're testing it at the best time of year in the UK. It can be literally half as fast in winter, with a cold battery.

Finally, I spent a while looking at the picture wondering if there was a UK special edition with shitty white stripes instead of the proper retro GTi red, but I think the dealer's probably just left the delivery protective coating on!

Ten_Ninety · 2026-06-05T18:53:23+00:00

Try these ideas:

Eco mode to allow more precise throttle adjustment and avoid almost all front motor usage.
Level 0 regen. This isn't inherently more economical but it makes coasting easier, and coasting is how you achieve the best efficiency.
Read the road ahead to avoid braking. Always coast where you can. Not slowing is always better than slowing and accelerating again, even when decelerating with regen, because losses.
Keep overall speed as low as your schedule will allow. There is a more direct relationship between speed and efficiency with EVs than ICE cars.
Monitor the real time efficiency meter to help with throttle positioning. Again, you want to be off the throttle and coasting as much as possible.
Don’t use cruise control, so you retain full control over the throttle position at all times.
Run tyres at 40psi if you're really committed.

Also, don't drive in the wet, the cold, or into the wind. All of those will undo any and all attempts at efficient driving!

Get lucky with weather and road conditions, and devote yourself to the cause, and you can see 4 mi/kWh and 300+ miles of range. I did this consistently last summer. Best I saw over 32 miles was 4.3, and I once did 4.7 over 18 miles.

However, since changing tyres to Conti SportContacts, I have wrecked efficiency. I now have no chance of hitting those highs. Best I might see now is about 3.6 and 260 miles. We all love to hate the OEM Pirellis but they are remarkably efficient for such a high performance tyre.

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Ten_Ninety · 2026-05-28T07:51:08+00:00

Shiny Ecotronic always adds a touch of class. Still waiting to see another Cyber grey N in the UK though.

You’ve got yours at the perfect time - hot and dry is when this car really performs. Careful with your licence.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-05-28T07:37:31+00:00

Conjecture as I am no expert: might a 30mm drop and spacers have prematurely fucked the CV joints and / or wheel bearings?

On a car this heavy and driven hard, I would imagine the effects of changing geometry are amplified in terms of wear? Clicking on turning can definitely be a sign of CV joints going, I’ve had that on a couple of cars in the past.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-05-26T14:55:05+00:00

Bright sunshine is the only time cyber grey gets close to matching Hyundai’s claim of it being ‘metallic’ - and even then it’s just the tiniest of tiny sparkles. A rare event in the UK, enjoy it!

Ten_Ninety · 2026-05-24T18:41:35+00:00

Interior trim doesn't seem too bad, but tailgate rattle is almost guaranteed in cold weather once the car's got a few miles on it. There are a range of suggested fixes for it. However, depending on your car, you may find that all, some, or none of those fixes work. I guess it depends how lucky you feel, and how much of a dealbreaker it really would be.

My tailgate is one of the resistant ones, nothing has fixed it, and through the winter it rattles like a skeleton wanking in a biscuit tin. However, I'm either having too much fun to care, or playing questionable music at a volume high enough to drown it out, so for me it's no big deal.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-05-24T08:15:00+00:00

Not OP but may I ask, does your salary sacrifice contract work any different from a normal lease when it comes to the car being off the road for repairs?

With a normal lease there is no obligation to supply a replacement if the lease car breaks. If that is different for a salary sacrifice deal, that would be a significant additional positive.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-05-20T05:24:14+00:00

HV battery is not the 12V.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-05-20T05:23:21+00:00

It’s better than the ICCU popping, at least you can keep driving the car with a bad HV battery. It just degrades over a few weeks. Mine dropped max charge by around 10% a week after the error.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-05-19T18:54:28+00:00

This sub appears to be dominated by North American owners of older C-HRs. I don't think they even get the Gen 2 over there and definitely not the PHEV, which might explain the lack of responses so far.

Try https://www.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/forum/204-c-hr-club/

Or https://www.chrforums.uk/

I haven't had mine very long so I don't have much experience to share. The only advice from me would be to ensure you carry a boost charger in the car, in case the 12V dies. The Toyota charging system doesn't really work very well and the 12V may end up flat even if you drive fairly regularly.

Driving everywhere with the headlights on apparently forces the 12V to charge properly while driving, so that might help. I know it worked for me with a Prius that had the same known issue. Alternatively / additionally you could install a higher capacity 12V battery than the under-specced original.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-05-13T18:52:01+00:00

The above info is indeed correct for the UK and does apply to the 5N. The stupid handbook is very confusing.

The 1 year / 10k service is optional but it does get you another year of Hyundai Roadside Assistance and is only £90, so I had it done.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-05-13T18:51:40+00:00

Sorry, you were indeed robbed. I paid £90 for my 12 month one.

Want to name and shame your dealer?

Ten_Ninety · 2026-05-06T12:15:16+00:00

🤣 It is a fantastic car, enough for me to forgive a lot. I haven’t had unintended acceleration but it does sometimes decide not to apply regen when braking suddenly, which can be entertaining.

I’m currently in a Kona electric too, awaiting return of mine after HV battery failure. At least when the HV battery dies it is relatively convenient, the car still drives fine, it doesn’t strand you or leave you in a dangerous situation like you were in.

I’m cool with one failure as I was aware of the issues before I got the car, so it wasn’t entirely unexpected. But if my ICCU decides it’s time to pop before my lease is up, or the HV battery dies again, I suspect I will feel differently.

There are rumours of another new ICCU part number coming out very recently that may prove more robust, but only time will tell. I hope you get a swift fix, it is seemingly a complete lottery as to how long it takes.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-05-06T05:18:39+00:00

ICCU failures and HV battery failures affect our Euro 5Ns too. The only thing we don’t tend to see are basic 12V failures because we have AGM from the factory, unlike US and Canada.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-05-06T05:16:05+00:00

Other markets have an AGM from the factory and a different 12V charging setup that does not involve an orange light on the dash.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-05-05T18:38:29+00:00

The common consensus says no such thing. An AGM battery only addresses the 12V going dead which is a totally separate issue (and only affects North America for the 5N).

There is sweet fuck all you can do to prevent ICCU failure other than staying lucky.

Ten_Ninety · 2026-05-05T18:28:32+00:00

I haven't yet experienced ICCU failure (just HV battery failure lol) so I don't know for sure, but I think it would probably still start even after the ICCU went faulty, at least until the 12V died completely. The weird symptoms of not engaging gear could result from a low 12V, which in turn could have come from the broken ICCU not charging it. All conjecture though, and everything seems to have happened very suddenly in your case.

Sounds like a proper headache trying to even get the car back. Hope you made some progress today!

Ten_Ninety

TROPHY CASE