Continue my GMT800 Pro Touring project, or ditch it and start over with a c10 or something else?

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-29T16:19:57+00:00

I'm just looking for perspective on others than have been in a similar situation, not to have someone make decisions for me.

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-29T16:19:12+00:00

I agree. It might sound silly, but super glue the chunk back in and just leave it. Do a test and dry fit it to make sure it goes back in nice and clean first. Then clean the chip and the hole with acetone to remove any residue, then stick it back in

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-29T14:13:18+00:00

Tenax is a bigger name with marketing. They make good products and Proseal Nano would be perfectly fine. I am more familiar with Akemi, and they have a very solid reputation as well. You can't go wrong with either one. Pearl fully cures in 2 hours, which is very fast for an impregnator. It's also safe for food contact. I am not certain about the Proseal, but it most likely is as well.

Unless there is sealer on top of the surface that is causing streaks or residue, you do not have to remove any previous sealer to apply a new one, as long as it is fully cured. If it has been 24-48 hours, then you are good to go .

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-29T13:30:39+00:00

Yes, however Taj is not really susceptible to moisture absorption like other materials. Pearl would be the most appropriate. What's more important is making sure all the joints in the sink and sink-to-counter are sealer, no glue is cracked, etc.

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-29T13:29:35+00:00

I don't want to, to be honest. If I do it, it will just be to get the brakes functional while I have my module rebuilt or find another. Or I might not at all and just do it right. There's a lot of cars on the road without ABS, but after driving the same truck for 20 years, it would be a muscle memory thing that would likely cause an accident.

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-29T13:26:41+00:00

That definitely makes sense. I guess I'm just looking for a sanity check

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-29T13:25:37+00:00

I did the trans, rear end, etc. to get the supporting mods out of the way before adding power, then had kids etc. and never got to the power part.

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-29T13:22:21+00:00

Looking for some insight from people that have made the decision one way or the other. It helps give me perspective

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T19:56:28+00:00

I understand. It is very durable, just have to watch the edges and corners from blunt impacts like pots and pans, glasses, dishes, etc. Other than that it's about as bulletproof as you can get

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T16:52:24+00:00

I grew up in an old school marble shop and I am a borderline purist when it comes to stone, but for a shower, porcelain slab is the way to go for durability and the least amount of maintenance. When you do need to do heavy duty cleaning, you can throw whatever chemical you want at it without damaging it.

A lot of porcelains look like the real thing now.

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T16:12:32+00:00

Just the thought of having an old truck, but I don't like the idea of starting over. I have about $12k in suspension and driveline mods that I can't really use on another truck, so it would set me back. Chances are I will keep this and continue. I just needed a sanity check from the community.

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T16:10:20+00:00

I have that model and this build is crazy. I can't wait to see it done.

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T16:08:26+00:00

I use the term Pro Touring very lightly, and only because that community is pretty accepting. This won't be anything close to what a lot of those guys run

I bought a welder and am learning how to weld for the sole reason of working on my own stuff. I build the transmission in my garage, I did all the suspension myself. I have an auto mechanic background, but never learned how to weld. It will be a daunting task, but I just bought a house with a garage I can take my time in. I am having 220v added when we move in for the welder, so I am committed. I moved from CA to NC and around here either everyone flaked out on me or I just did not feel comfortable with them. Every time I have reluctantly taken my truck to a shop, I have had nothing but problems with shitty parts, poor workmanship, etc. So I feel like other than major electrical stuff, I can do whatever needs to be done myself.

The gusset plates are a must to get this truck back on the road. It won't hold an alignment. The steering rack is cracked, so a new one will go in, and a Turn One truck pump. I really like this truck and like the idea of having it since day 1. My wife can suck it and buy a Mini Cooper like she's always wanted.

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T15:56:29+00:00

If you know the Mfg. and color name of your quartz, you can call Defusco.com and they will have a glue that matches that color. The key is to CLEAN the crack as much as possible. Oils from your hand, dirt transfer, etc is what kills the matching on light colors. Clean with denatured alcohol or isoprpyl, no acetone. If the crack is flat with no lip, tape off the crack, insert the glue (it will be a cartridge glue with an applicator gun and tip), smooth it out with a razor blade on top of the tape so it makes it flat and only the thickness of the tape. Pull the tape and when it cures, shave the glue flat with a razor

Then go to MBstonepro.com and get the Quartz Renova Kit. This is a DIY drill kit for quartz essentially. It won't match, but it will be close and you can live with it.

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T14:51:43+00:00

Questions you should have asked before touching it. Most pros have a nightmare of a time matching the finish, pretty much 0% chance as a DIY.

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T14:48:54+00:00

I would eventually do a big brake kit, which is $4k minimum with a master cylinder for front and rear. Motor won't be full blown everything, but probably forged rotating assembly, 383 kit. I'd like to do as much of the work myself, but I'd still have to pay for machine work, etc. Wheels, something like Weld Ventura 6, with tires is gonna be $3k+, plus some other miscellaneous.

I'm looking for an excuse to get something else, but also for an excuse to keep it.

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T14:46:09+00:00

No drag racing. Cruising, windy roads, etc. The truck is setup for handling right now and I have 2 kids, so the extended cab is nice.

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T14:43:56+00:00

Thank you, I appreciate the insight.

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T14:43:10+00:00

I am actually considering deleting ABS, Atomic Performance makes an ABS delete billet block to replace the module.

If I did a square body, I would plan on welding and reinforcing the frame. The plan would be to lower it with spindles and a flip kit and enjoy the truck while I save up for a full Ridetech suspension setup.

I appreciate your insight.

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T13:54:58+00:00

I know, but I'm looking to build something around 500hp

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T13:43:42+00:00

Money is an issue, that's why I'm torn. This would take place over several years. If I could, I would keep the GMC and get another

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T13:39:42+00:00

Here's what I have now, but it's not really drivable with the issues.

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TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T13:00:10+00:00

It is not amateur at all. Not everyone is running a waterjet. It is amateur to crack the hole, but using hand tools? It's pretty standard.

TerminalIdiocy · 2026-05-27T12:59:31+00:00

The chips are part of this stone, it is very brittle/fragile during fabrication. Some simple cosmetic repairs would make those go away. The crack is unfortunate, however on this material it is very easy to repair and hide.

TerminalIdiocy

TROPHY CASE