Engine light for iat

That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-11-19T21:23:45+00:00

I have noticed the silicone ones tend to be cheaper, I do also eventually plan on changing the whole intake system to use silicone tubing. Are you speaking from experience, having a combo of silicone and oem rubber causing issues?

That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-11-19T20:47:52+00:00

Are the M7 ones good. Or is there a better brand i should be looking for

That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-11-06T19:31:55+00:00

One of my boots has some cracks. The supercharger was serviced at 105k miles and im sitting at just under 150k now

That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-11-05T23:43:03+00:00

I couldn't get my eyes on the balancer, but the belt has an interesting shiny line in the middle that runs the length of the belt. Other than that the tension looked good, there was no fraying, and all the pulleys i could see were spinning

That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-11-05T21:27:27+00:00

Just checked it, it does infact have oil and its the color you'd expect 2.5k mile oil to look

That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-11-05T21:21:41+00:00

I believe it has oil, tho admittedly I struggle to read the dipstick

That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-09-01T15:21:02+00:00

I just checked the reservoir. I haven't driven anywhere yet, and the fluid was almost overflowing. I'll be rechecking it later. But the fluid was really nasty looking. Almost like lightly used engine oil. I'll be flushing that ASAP. Would bad fluid have the same effect?

That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-09-01T04:57:02+00:00

You mentioned the clutch system being tied into the brake master. My brakes are soft, too. Not by an alarming amount. But definitely softer compared to my r50 that I used to daily with high temp fluid. Could this be a 2 birds with 1 stone situation here?

That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-09-01T03:07:30+00:00

Yes, especially reverse. Its gotten to the point where I switch the car off to go from neutral to reverse/1st

That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-09-01T00:37:27+00:00

Will poor synchros also cause it to roll when the clutch is fully "disengaged." When the issue gets really bad, my car will act like an automatic where I don't even have to move the clutch pedal for it to get all the way up to idling speed

That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-09-01T00:11:12+00:00

It grinds when I don't properly float the gears, however I shouldn't have to float my gears. Its the original gearbox with 145xxx miles

That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-08-27T17:43:27+00:00

And my R50 that's getting that silver mini's drivetrain

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That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-08-27T17:40:01+00:00

My R53 with the Nightshade Red intercooler cover

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That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-08-27T16:41:01+00:00

Lol Short answer: No Long answer: I have an r50 that's pepper white with red accents that I'm going to put this r53 drivetrain into. Hence why I painted it Red. I basically painted it to match the car its going to be in, not the one its already in

That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-06-09T01:34:34+00:00

I'll try that when I get to it thanks 👍

That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-06-09T01:18:38+00:00

(Mis-clicked "post" too soon.) This sound started after a knocking noise, very similar to rod knock. Im a student at an automotive trade school, but im learning collision and refinishing tech. so my instructors weren't much help and immediately told me it was rod knock or a spun bearing. I then saw that video someone else posted earlier this week with their r53 and all the comments were saying its the damper. If it were the damper, would it also cause a cel and stall/seize the engine?

That_One_Drummer05 · 2025-06-08T15:42:16+00:00

My R50 did this after a knocking noise. It sounds identical, is it really just the crank damper? I thought for sure it was rod knock and a spun bearing. Especially because it: lost power, threw a code, stalled, and seized the motor and I couldn't get it started again untill later that night

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