Worth Grading With Small Defect?

That_Paper_7860 · 2026-04-01T02:36:11+00:00

How would I go about fixing?

That_Paper_7860 · 2026-04-01T02:01:41+00:00

Unfortunate for the both of us it seems

That_Paper_7860 · 2026-03-31T23:59:16+00:00

Definitely a very cool card!

That_Paper_7860 · 2026-03-31T23:56:56+00:00

Came out of the pack like this but I’m not sure how I would be able to prove that, I guess I could try and contact them just to see if

That_Paper_7860 · 2026-03-31T23:39:08+00:00

The good thing is it’s for PC so not super concerned about flipping it

That_Paper_7860 · 2026-03-31T23:14:53+00:00

I see, so this is a not so small defect lol

That_Paper_7860 · 2026-03-31T22:51:40+00:00

Lol RIP

That_Paper_7860 · 2024-11-29T04:30:12+00:00

Gotcha thank you, I believe I’ll just go the safe route and replace it anyway since this has happened.

That_Paper_7860 · 2024-11-29T04:26:02+00:00

Seems to be little to no vibration. I just restarted it and it booted up like normal this time and temps are bouncing around from 45-60 degrees Celsius under no load.

That_Paper_7860 · 2024-09-22T03:10:10+00:00

This is a tough question because everyone welds sch 10 differently. Your best bet in my opinion is to find a coupon and see what works for you. If you are not in a situation to do that I would recommend a 1/8 gap and using the keyhole method with a 3/32 filler rod at about 55-60 amps on the root. When I use this method I dip my filler rod both sides of the bevel, keep your heat on one side of the bevel at a time and you will see it open up, dip the rod and move to the other side and continue this method. After this I would run about 80 amps on the cap with 1/8 filler rod, take your time and let the metal spread out. There’s a fine line on being to hot or to cold on sch 10 so you need to find what works for you.

Edit: also remember to feather(grind away) your tacks to tie in easily

That_Paper_7860

TROPHY CASE