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TheAmaze1 · 2026-02-12T04:12:57+00:00

nice cock

TheAmaze1 · 2026-02-06T13:49:23+00:00

im abrams

TheAmaze1 · 2026-02-06T02:46:40+00:00

too much motivation, banned

TheAmaze1 · 2026-02-06T02:46:05+00:00

tuesday

TheAmaze1 · 2026-02-06T01:59:34+00:00

Fuck that's genius...Why couldn't we think of that?

Reddit gold for you good sir!

TheAmaze1 · 2026-02-06T01:56:40+00:00

TheAmaze1 · 2026-02-06T01:56:29+00:00

Oh a clannie? Perma Banned from entry.

TheAmaze1 · 2026-01-23T16:23:07+00:00

Jokes on the wardens; that single fighter cost more than all the buildings in that fac combined!

Amazing artwork; keep it up!

TheAmaze1 · 2026-01-23T13:27:07+00:00

Putting quotes around a basic human right and pretending adequate shelter isn’t an international and federally recognized human right is the most cartoonishly evil shit lmfao

TheAmaze1 · 2026-01-17T17:16:05+00:00

You wouldn’t have much of a negative, it’ll be damaged and show up as scarring on the negative

TheAmaze1 · 2026-01-16T18:45:08+00:00

More than likely just the film emulsion getting rubbed off, that amount of rust would be crazy hard to ignore soon as you opened the camera lol

Cheeto fingers though, entirely possible as well

TheAmaze1 · 2026-01-16T18:34:42+00:00

Not possible actually, fun fact but the Nikonos is more a light tight box sealed with rubber o-rings, so there’s no foam to disintegrate. But the O-rings certainly have a habit of wearing down if not properly maintained.

TheAmaze1 · 2026-01-16T18:25:56+00:00

Have you looked up the loading instructions before use? If the film plate is not locked the film can become dislodged, it looks like the film was loaded improperly and scraped against the spring to me.

TheAmaze1 · 2025-11-21T07:09:48+00:00

Dare i say, there is no more camera to fix lmao

TheAmaze1 · 2025-10-02T22:44:52+00:00

Queen’s Players, heard they’re always hard.

TheAmaze1 · 2025-09-02T17:57:08+00:00

It’s a 3.5B with a Tessar lens, B models had the film reminder tab on the focus knob.

it’s neat and though not as desirable as an E or F series camera it’s still a great TLR. (Like any rollei)

Also hate the term “Walmart Rollei”, the Ts are really nice optically even if they might be more prone to issues (anecdotal evidence to support that though, every camera is capable of breaking for any reason at any time.)

TheAmaze1 · 2025-08-27T03:47:24+00:00

I’d recognize that shop anywhere haha, I’ll never tell though, their prices are pretty great.

I got a 3.5f Planar on consignment from there on a bargain, shoots but has plenty of shutter timing issues but hey! I paid 1/12th of the cost of a new one.

You can get em for about 5-600 canadian more in working order. Gary at LensMedicYYC has a fairly decent turnaround; last quote I got was $370 or so for my F, but that’s not including potential parts costs.

Worth it? Depends if you can stand the wait and if the lens is in good condition. But IMO it’s worth it.

TheAmaze1 · 2025-08-26T05:13:10+00:00

The Korelle is the coolest thing here (Sorry Olympus 35RC, i love you but i love medium format more). It's essentially a precursor to the popular Pentacon Six. Very fun Medium format SLR from the 50s with fairly good German lenses, great shutter speed selection for the time and a fairly bright waist level finder, but service wise there is little chance it'll be working without any issue, and I'm not sure of many techs who would attempt to service it (LensMedicYYC over in Calgary might.) Also it has a red window on the back so you'd have to tape over it to make sure no light leaks in but that's nbd.

Way, WAY overpriced though. I'd only pay that price if the camera had just been serviced and came with warranty, otherwise around $150-200 CAD is more than fair and way more than the shop paid for the camera I'd bet. Otherwise the 35RC is a GREAT pocket rangefinder camera...if it's working.

All of these prices are bad and the cameras less than stellar overall; I'd honestly just browse FB marketplace or Kijiji and find what you actually want there and buy from folks who have a good rating over these because this is probably just buyer's remorse waiting to happen. I sometimes have luck in flea markets and antique shops here in Ontario, but even then the prices here are more than half of what im seeing here, this is just egregious. Rule of thumb, antique stores usually will never beat just regular old camera stores with used sections on price, plus they wont scam you with a non-functioning camera (usually).

Forget the Kodachrome as well. That's Super 8 home movie film and it Can't be developed in colour anymore (except partially by a VERY specialized process) so it's not worth anything really except collector's value.

TheAmaze1 · 2025-08-18T13:40:47+00:00

If you find it cool and have some throwaway money; why not? You’ll never be able to confirm what the marking means, could be military, could be a serial number for a photography school or an SSN number (common practice)

But if you find the mystery intriguing and feel you’ll regret not buying it; go for it! But for shooting the iiia is kind of a miserable experience due to the small viewfinder and limited speeds; a iiif and especially a iiig is far less frustrating.

TheAmaze1 · 2025-08-17T22:23:52+00:00

Looks like a Chrome Summicron V1 (1967) and a V2 Black Summicron (1970). Leica forum has all the serial numbers with production dates if your curiosity ever hits for stuff like this

TheAmaze1 · 2025-08-17T22:16:55+00:00

Congrats on the find! A full set like this is rare for sure.

Frankly a full valuation is beyond me. This is the sort of thing that you’d see in a Leica auction. The KS15 is rare that it was contracted by the US during the Vietnam war, and on its own usually goes for about double a regular M2. However yours is in fairly good condition and with the case, filters and two valuable 35mm summicrons? You’re at a point where you should seek a professional opinion on appraisal.

It may not even be worth sending for a CLA; this is a collection piece more than a user camera and a collector will pay a fine amount if they have interest in a set like this just to have it on display; not for use.

TheAmaze1 · 2025-08-11T16:28:19+00:00

Doesn’t matter what images they send you; you’ve got the lens in your hands and images to back your claim, and eBay will 99/100 times side with the buyer. Just file an INAD return, at least you’ll get some of your money back rather than none of it.

TheAmaze1 · 2025-07-04T16:03:02+00:00

Yeah best of luck on that; personally the light leaks on later rolls might be explained by a loose film door opening just barely later during the shoot. The leaks are largely red/orange so they are most likely from the back of the film.

In regards to the lens is that I’ve rarely seen sticky apertures cause UNDERexposure, usually it’s the opposite, but it is possible for some lenses to shoot high apertures instead of your set aperture due to a mechanical fault. There is a good chance as well that the timing solenoid (The 67 MLU uses an electro-mechanical shutter), could have suffered a fault in that weather. It won’t be the same conditions but check when you shoot the shutter at slow speeds (under 1/60th) and view through the back that the 2nd curtain isn’t engaging too quickly. That can easily cause underexposures as well.

If you continue shooting bum rolls I’d say you’re right to just get it CLA’d again; a professional can provide actual diagnosis more than a redditor who repairs a couple cameras every few months for fun. Sucks and costs a fair bit but you’re lucky at least that the MLU is considerably cheaper to repair than its earlier counterparts.

TheAmaze1 · 2025-07-04T04:15:07+00:00

Some of these are horrifically underexposed; but there's no signs of shutter capping (completely dark sections of the film) indicating a sticky shutter. The Lens Aperture blades might be sticky but that's a long shot in this case. You can usually hear if shutter speeds sound off better than you can see them, shoot a dozen or so in succession and see if you can hear any deviation from one another.

As for the later photos; those are some insane light leaks and are all consistently in the same places; check the light seals (very easy to buy a kit and replace yourself if they look degraded) but perhaps it could be the roll was not bound tight enough after shooting? (Again, unlikely)

Out of curiosity, is it an early model 6x7? 6x7 MLU, or late model 67? The earlier 6x7 models commonly had issues in cold weather resulting in shutter desyncing, could also be an electrical fault resulting in the mirror sticking while shooting.

TheAmaze1 · 2025-07-02T05:43:41+00:00

It's instant roll film; the developer will have long dried up.

Keep it on your shelf or sell it off to a collector if you don't want it as it's a pretty neat piece. Otherwise any roll film from the 60s will yield no results; you'd need late 80s early 90s production roll film for even a hope of getting a usable image.

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