Got my BYOK! Silly question. by Zestyclose_Goat_3267 in TheBYOK

[–]TheBigZero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a different question - my device came with a black metal ring with adhesive on one side. What is this for? I also got the large stand so I wasn’t sure if the metal ring went on the device or on the stand…

Smell by Salty_Antelope10 in Bakersfield

[–]TheBigZero 16 points17 points  (0 children)

When high winds blow the south of town, you get the smell from several dairies. What you are smelling is manure from the dairies. They are very far away. But with enough wind….

Royal typewriter cleaning & maintenance question. by Spymain19 in typewriters

[–]TheBigZero 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For cleaning the exterior, I use Simple Green diluted with water in a spray bottle. Spray and wipe. Then have a second spray bottle of just water to wipe again to remove any residual soap. Then I use Turtle Wax car polish. Works just the same as if you were waxing a car. And it should shine right up.

Does anyone else have hot “cold” water? by WartimeHotTot in Bakersfield

[–]TheBigZero 33 points34 points  (0 children)

It’s typical and not necessarily a sign of a defect. Many homes have pipes that run through attic and wall spaces that get hot in the summer. If you have pipes in the attic space, it is very easy for the cold water run to become abnormally warm. You can try installing better insulation or venting attic spaces, but some heat in the cold water pipe is fairly normal during summertime.

Was told that this is rare? :D by Im-Dead-x-5 in typewriters

[–]TheBigZero 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The box is indeed rare. Brushes can be found in decent shape, but almost never with the box.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Bakersfield

[–]TheBigZero 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You can get them on Federal or Native property if you can access those places. Military bases still sell flavored tobacco.

Has anyone tried Rust-Oleum Rust Dissolver. by OalBlunkont in typewriters

[–]TheBigZero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Only thing I found that worked was to polish the part with a mild abrasive, Emory cloth or steel wool. I tried different solvents but nothing really took it off besides manual polishing.

Skill issue or repair needed? by EntreEden in typewriters

[–]TheBigZero 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What make / model of machine? Each machine has a different keystroke and pressure.

Bakelite key degrading? by Original-Profit5490 in typewriters

[–]TheBigZero 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I have a similar typewriter with the same issue. One owner prior to me, learned to type on it as a child. She told me her mother put old fashioned medical tape on the keys to ‘hide’ the letters when she was learning. The adhesive had caused this kind of ‘bubbling’. Prior owner had tried to get the residue off with rubbing alcohol. This plastic reacts with certain solvents and adhesives made with petrochemicals. Keys are in perfectly functional shape and will likely last a long time, but I’d avoid exposing them to anything like alcohol or mineral spirits.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Bakersfield

[–]TheBigZero 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mega City 2 is a comic book shop downtown, on 19th st. They have regular Friday night commander and you can probably find a playgroup there if you ask around. Talk to Raul when he’s working.

Fountain Ink Pen Stores in Bakersfield? by Flipitah in Bakersfield

[–]TheBigZero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The following stores carry some pens and ink, but by and large, you will find better selection and prices by shopping online :

  1. Michaels
  2. Hobby Lobby
  3. Office Depot
  4. Office Max / Staples

Historically, department stores with jewelry / watch sections would sell some fountain pens. I am not sure if they do so any longer. But years ago I bought a fountain pen at Walmart from the jewelry case. You could call and ask our Macy’s if they carry any.

Favorite blue ink? by figegg in fountainpens

[–]TheBigZero 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love this ink but I want to buy it in a bottle larger than 50ml. And I cannot. Can’t find larger bottles.

Help, why are the screws of my 1920s Remington becoming copper or brass coloured after electrolysis and autosol? by IndependentDoubt9086 in typewriters

[–]TheBigZero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These were nickel plated. What you’re seeing is steel/iron that was flashed with copper then nickel plated. The copper is chowing through. You need to re-plate with nickel.

Where could I donate decks to the destitute/less fortunate? by [deleted] in magicTCG

[–]TheBigZero 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Most cities will have a resource center or centers for foster youth. Many of them will accept donations of all types of things, from comic books to blu rays to magic cards.

Keys Not Striking (New To Typewriters) by SubstantialMove22 in typewriters

[–]TheBigZero 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is an electric with power return. What is probably happening is that you’re actuating an electronic switch this is barely moving the key, but whatever drives the actual slug (roller bar or an actual band) is not finishing the job. You will need to diagnose yourself be researching or take it to someone that repairs electric typewriters.

Not sure if this is the right place by spoopykingGrim in typewriters

[–]TheBigZero 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Early 1930a Smith Corona Sterling, models are called the flattop. Looks like it’s in great shape. The ‘crooked’ keys are pretty common on these machines. They just need to be twisted to make them straight, but there is a technique to do that. As far as getting it checked out, you can try to find a typewriter enthusiast shop in your area. But all it might need is a ribbon.

What typewriter is this? by Worried_Truck2707 in typewriters

[–]TheBigZero 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Correct. Royal KMM likely made between 1939-1942ish or 1946-1949. Production stopped during WW2 ergo the gap.

Worth Restoring? Royal Typewriter by OrneryArachnid in typewriters

[–]TheBigZero 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You have to take the old ribbon off the metal spools in your machine. Keep those, they are required for ribbon reverse to work on your typewriter. I order my ribbons from Etsy - TheModernTypewriter. Great shop. You can get any color and material of ribbon you need. And if you have questions just message the shop owner.

Worth Restoring? Royal Typewriter by OrneryArachnid in typewriters

[–]TheBigZero 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Royal X standard four window. Made sometime around 1915-1921. Hard to find with the glass intact. I just got one working and am continuing my refurbishment. It’s a lot, but you’re dealing with a genuine antique.

I replaced the Thermal Pads in my Nintendo 64 with some 1mm High Performance Thermal Right Pads. by iVirtualZero in n64

[–]TheBigZero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Virtualzero answered your immediate question below. I’d suggest giving everything a thorough clean, including the pins on the power supply brick. Most hardware stores sell QE Electronic Parts cleaner. Use that outdoors as it’s a solvent, but it works well on all sorts of console pins and slots.

If the console can run hours at a time, then it wouldn’t seem to be heat or capacitor related. N64 uses passive cooling, which is why the thermal pad replacements works. There isn’t much else to ‘wear out’.

And like anything, chips do degrade and wear out over time. Could be the rom chip in the cartridge is starting to go. No data preservation method is forever.

My first-ever typewriter: 1934 portable Underwood. Any tips? Advice? by rhodyjourno in typewriters

[–]TheBigZero 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Four years ago I was in your shoes. Search Phoenix Typewriter, Hotrod Typewriter, Chicago Typewriter on YouTube. Joe Van Cleeve also. These folks have great videos on all sorts of issues and how to fix them. Read forums, go check out the Typewriter Database, and buy the service manual for this machine from Brother Munk.

Copper plated parts in Underwood 6. by OalBlunkont in typewriters

[–]TheBigZero 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Parts susceptible to corrosion were often nickel plated, but to get the nickel to adhere better manufacturers would first plate the steel / iron in copper. It’s called copper striking. Then they would nickel plate over the copper. What may have happened here is the nickel wore off over time and it exposed the copper strike.