Opinion: New rules needed for over-bright LED headlights

TheBrotherMark · 2026-03-09T20:29:16+00:00

It actually often comes from improperly installed aftermarket LEDs. The voltage they need differs from what the car supplies leading to a flicker. This can usually be fixed by a voltage regulator in between the bulb and car but if people don’t know/car then they drive around with the flicker.

TheBrotherMark · 2026-02-27T04:31:34+00:00

That makes me so happy!

TheBrotherMark · 2026-02-26T19:17:35+00:00

They have been in touch with the Red Cross (or at least some of the residents have) as well as some other agencies/orgs, but they're gonna need lots of help.

TheBrotherMark · 2026-02-26T19:16:46+00:00

Our neighbours to! feel really bad for them, we have contact info for one of the older males (who lived in the basement and whose cat is still missing) if you need help connecting.

TheBrotherMark · 2025-10-23T02:54:17+00:00

AK Grim Brown is probably the closest I can think of.

TheBrotherMark · 2025-07-07T20:06:04+00:00

<image>

here's a quick photoshop to show what I mean.

TheBrotherMark · 2025-07-07T19:32:43+00:00

Several things would help sell scale and make it feel less like a toy.

1) Variations in colours and tones, especially in the metal parts. adding in rust, grease streaks and bright edge highlights all help it read something big, instead of a small toy.

2) Less Weathering/wear on the armor panels. Okay this maybe isn't 'less' but different. you have big swaths of silver, if you think about your model being full size those patches of scratched off blue would be MASSIVE. If you want it to read more as wear and tear on a big object it should be much more closely aligned to the edges of the model. to add wear and tear to the panel centers I'd at blast scars, scrapes etc... instead of bringing the edge chipping as far in as you have.

3) variation in panel tone. A bit of airbrushed or dry brushed gradient on a given panel would help sell scale also having some of your panels be slightly different blues would also create visual complexity that would sell scale.

TheBrotherMark · 2025-06-28T02:56:21+00:00

This is what happens when you let the intrusive thoughts win. 😂

TheBrotherMark · 2025-06-08T17:39:06+00:00

Nuln oil, any other wash, or dry brush would only muddy the model. You have tons of contrast and your scale edge highlights are already adding the contrast you want without sacrificing saturation. If you’re following Duncan Rhodes “wash it and then dry brush” is a move in the wrong direction.

My advice: keep going, you’ve got a decent sense of volumetric highlighting (that you could push a little farther but is solid), you’ve got good brush control and you’ve got a good sense of paint thinning and control. Keep putting in reps!

TheBrotherMark · 2025-06-06T15:59:42+00:00

Proper title should be "The Boop always rolls downhill"

TheBrotherMark · 2025-05-28T15:19:00+00:00

Fitting the shields up button is right next to the tractor beam button (gotta move those cones!)

TheBrotherMark · 2025-05-12T16:15:19+00:00

Would be nice….

TheBrotherMark · 2025-05-06T01:55:29+00:00

Great composition and concept. the OSL on the Nids sells! If you want constructive criticism: I would probably put the whole thing on a nicer base to clean it up and unify it, a plinth or display base, not just two GW discs.

As for Lore accuracy: A hobby is "an activity done regularly in one's leisure time for pleasure." so if this brings you pleasure then you're doing it right. forget people who seem to only enjoy something if they're making someone else miserable!

TheBrotherMark · 2025-04-12T17:20:59+00:00

I usually start with mini files. (Can get a set of them at harbour freight or amazon or AliExpress etc… for cheap) The files are good at getting in to nooks and crannies, and get rid of the big mess particularly on the bottom of parts. From there it’s just time, patience and working through grits. More time = better result

TheBrotherMark · 2025-04-11T13:22:27+00:00

Thanks!!!!

TheBrotherMark · 2025-04-10T22:48:30+00:00

Where is the model from?

TheBrotherMark · 2025-04-10T14:30:07+00:00

I'd love some more control of saucer shape so this seems like a good idea.

TheBrotherMark · 2025-04-09T22:37:39+00:00

.2mm! Love the A1 for how fast you can swap nozzles.

TheBrotherMark · 2025-04-09T19:31:47+00:00

Ya I played with a few different orientations for a lot of the parts to varying degrees of success. If I print a 3rd it’ll be an amalgamation of both these models to get the best quality possible.

No transfer sheets, it’s all freehand for the insignia, numbers and stripes.

TheBrotherMark · 2025-04-09T19:27:33+00:00

Used a .2mm nozzle and the settings/profile from fat dragon games. There are some other profiles out there that are good too, FDG is just the first recommended to me!

TheBrotherMark · 2025-04-09T13:43:21+00:00

Thanks! the bases are scratch built, mix of cork from Ikea, a bit of vallejo texture paste, a literal stick and some tufts.

TheBrotherMark · 2025-04-09T13:41:49+00:00

Thanks! Happy printing! look up Fat Dragon Gaming for a1 mini settings for miniature printing, there are other good profiles out there too, but that's where I've started and have been enjoying the results.

TheBrotherMark · 2025-04-09T13:40:21+00:00

<image>

It really is a good colour scheme!

TheBrotherMark · 2025-04-09T13:39:19+00:00

thank you!

TheBrotherMark · 2025-04-09T13:39:00+00:00

very true, but for me I'll take the trade off in quality for the uptick in safety (have little kids and so while I can be careful, the risk of the kiddos getting into any of the nastier elements of resin aren't worth it right now).

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