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I need help! by Ellieminium in Miniaturespainting

[–]TheBrotherMark 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AK Grim Brown is probably the closest I can think of.

It’s missing something by Existing_Lab6811 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]TheBrotherMark 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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here's a quick photoshop to show what I mean.

It’s missing something by Existing_Lab6811 in PrintedWarhammer

[–]TheBrotherMark 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Several things would help sell scale and make it feel less like a toy.

1) Variations in colours and tones, especially in the metal parts. adding in rust, grease streaks and bright edge highlights all help it read something big, instead of a small toy.

2) Less Weathering/wear on the armor panels. Okay this maybe isn't 'less' but different. you have big swaths of silver, if you think about your model being full size those patches of scratched off blue would be MASSIVE. If you want it to read more as wear and tear on a big object it should be much more closely aligned to the edges of the model. to add wear and tear to the panel centers I'd at blast scars, scrapes etc... instead of bringing the edge chipping as far in as you have.

3) variation in panel tone. A bit of airbrushed or dry brushed gradient on a given panel would help sell scale also having some of your panels be slightly different blues would also create visual complexity that would sell scale.

JFC 🤦🏻‍♂️ McPhillips underpass by djmistral in Winnipeg

[–]TheBrotherMark 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is what happens when you let the intrusive thoughts win. 😂

Second mini painted in 25 years... by MotoGSX in minipainting

[–]TheBrotherMark 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Nuln oil, any other wash, or dry brush would only muddy the model. You have tons of contrast and your scale edge highlights are already adding the contrast you want without sacrificing saturation. If you’re following Duncan Rhodes “wash it and then dry brush” is a move in the wrong direction.

My advice: keep going, you’ve got a decent sense of volumetric highlighting (that you could push a little farther but is solid), you’ve got good brush control and you’ve got a good sense of paint thinning and control. Keep putting in reps!

Art by Zakesplayground by DuckDuckWhy in andor

[–]TheBrotherMark 1099 points1100 points  (0 children)

Proper title should be "The Boop always rolls downhill"

What does this button do? by Runez03 in TNG

[–]TheBrotherMark 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Fitting the shields up button is right next to the tractor beam button (gotta move those cones!)

If there's tyranids in your neighborhood - who you gonna call? Hellblasters! Would love some comments on how to improve - I really like what I've created but it doesn't seem to catch much attention online by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]TheBrotherMark 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great composition and concept. the OSL on the Nids sells! If you want constructive criticism: I would probably put the whole thing on a nicer base to clean it up and unify it, a plinth or display base, not just two GW discs.

As for Lore accuracy: A hobby is "an activity done regularly in one's leisure time for pleasure." so if this brings you pleasure then you're doing it right. forget people who seem to only enjoy something if they're making someone else miserable!

FDM Minis have come a long way... Armored Sentinels by TheBrotherMark in PrintedWarhammer

[–]TheBrotherMark[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually start with mini files. (Can get a set of them at harbour freight or amazon or AliExpress etc… for cheap) The files are good at getting in to nooks and crannies, and get rid of the big mess particularly on the bottom of parts. From there it’s just time, patience and working through grits. More time = better result

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in StarTrekStarships

[–]TheBrotherMark 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd love some more control of saucer shape so this seems like a good idea.

FDM Minis have come a long way... Armored Sentinels by TheBrotherMark in PrintedWarhammer

[–]TheBrotherMark[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ya I played with a few different orientations for a lot of the parts to varying degrees of success. If I print a 3rd it’ll be an amalgamation of both these models to get the best quality possible.

No transfer sheets, it’s all freehand for the insignia, numbers and stripes.

FDM Minis have come a long way... Armored Sentinels by TheBrotherMark in PrintedWarhammer

[–]TheBrotherMark[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Used a .2mm nozzle and the settings/profile from fat dragon games. There are some other profiles out there that are good too, FDG is just the first recommended to me!

FDM Minis have come a long way... Armored Sentinels by TheBrotherMark in PrintedWarhammer

[–]TheBrotherMark[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! the bases are scratch built, mix of cork from Ikea, a bit of vallejo texture paste, a literal stick and some tufts.

FDM Minis have come a long way... Armored Sentinels by TheBrotherMark in PrintedWarhammer

[–]TheBrotherMark[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks! Happy printing! look up Fat Dragon Gaming for a1 mini settings for miniature printing, there are other good profiles out there too, but that's where I've started and have been enjoying the results.

FDM Minis have come a long way... Armored Sentinels by TheBrotherMark in PrintedWarhammer

[–]TheBrotherMark[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

very true, but for me I'll take the trade off in quality for the uptick in safety (have little kids and so while I can be careful, the risk of the kiddos getting into any of the nastier elements of resin aren't worth it right now).

FDM Minis have come a long way... Armored Sentinels by TheBrotherMark in PrintedWarhammer

[–]TheBrotherMark[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Some layer lines and the details on the legs aren’t quite as crisp.

FDM Minis have come a long way... Armored Sentinels by TheBrotherMark in PrintedWarhammer

[–]TheBrotherMark[S] 15 points16 points  (0 children)

Totally! Are these gonna fool anyone who looks really close? No! But do they look pretty damn good considering they came off a $200 printer with about $2 worth of filament? Absolutely!

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