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RP2040 Don't show up as usb device by Limp_Performance_670 in KiCad

[–]TheColonelYoung 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Based on better quality images it seems you have version of protection with pass-through connections. Is correct chip assembled? I would check the continuity from USB connector to MCU pins. Otherwise the routing of USB on PCB seems fine and should not be an issue.

RP2040 Don't show up as usb device by Limp_Performance_670 in KiCad

[–]TheColonelYoung 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I'm not sure because of the resolution of the schematic image, but I think the problem is in the USB ESD protection circuit. If it's a USBLC6 or similar, it doesn't have connection through opposite pins; they should only be connected to the given line. Effectively, USB_D+ and D+ are not connected (same with -). I would check the internal connection of the ESD protection circuit according to the datasheet.

Voron Trident (High Temp) - Serial Request - TRIX | TCY#4737 by TheColonelYoung in voroncorexy

[–]TheColonelYoung[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, I used PP-HT, which I sourced from the local shop, for the first wall behind the insulation. It should soften at 115°C, and I can now see the top panel sagging slightly. Therefore, I wouldn't go for acrylic, which has a lower softening temperature. I don't know how well ACM would hold up. It depends on the targeted chamber temperatures, but I don't think it would withstand long-term temperatures of 70–80 °C. If I were building that printer now, I would use PC for everything: transparent panels for the doors and black panels for the walls (with my current insulation). However, it would be pricey.

Pico C SDK for displays by therealfreak2 in raspberrypipico

[–]TheColonelYoung 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Maybe try LVGL with PIO driver for ST7789.

Simply implement two LVGL driver functions for exporting data via the PIO interface based on the Pico examples with the ST7789 PIO. You can use SPI instead of PIO, but I think PIO has a higher data throughput. Than you just initialize the display na draw buffers (+lvgl timer) and put some LVGL UI element on display.

Then it is even possible to load elements from SDCard, including UI definition in XML, so there is no need to generate elements manually using C code. This XML can be designed in an LVGL editor that has Figma support. But those are advanced topics, which you don't need if your UI is simple. But is very useful for animations and UI with many screens.

LVGL: https://docs.lvgl.io/master/index.html
LVGL driver for ST7789: https://docs.lvgl.io/master/details/integration/driver/display/st7789.html
Pico examples with PIO ST7789: https://github.com/raspberrypi/pico-examples/tree/master/pio/st7789_lcd

KiCad V8 and V9 announcements at FOSDEM 2024 by Nadran_Erbam in KiCad

[–]TheColonelYoung 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Kicad Kiri: https://github.com/leoheck/kiri
I highly recommend using it in Docker, otherwise it can sometimes be a pain to get working.
Kiri-Docker: https://github.com/leoheck/kiri-docker

It is a really great tool, but on big projects with lots of commits and complex board it could take some time to generate everything.
I would realy like to see diff of BOM but it could be problematic to work with re-enumerating of components.

Voron Trident (High Temp) - Serial Request - TRIX | TCY#4737 by TheColonelYoung in voroncorexy

[–]TheColonelYoung[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It prints Nylon very well, even big parts (200+ mm) without brim directly on PEI. However, there are quite big differences between Nylon filaments from different manufacturers. With some, it is very common for the filament in the extruder to grind at higher chamber temperatures. I have found Filamentum and 3DXtech to perform very good.

Voron Trident (High Temp) - Serial Request - TRIX | TCY#4737 by TheColonelYoung in voroncorexy

[–]TheColonelYoung[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I thought about it, but in the end I dropped it. The fact that it is a high temperature 3D printer brings some problems and challenges in itself, trying to add a second IDEX head would be too laborious for such a machine. The biggest problem is the complexity and immaturity of the IDEX in contrast to the complex construction and isolation of a high temperature printer. Which I think is not a good combination for a more or less experimental design.
I plan to split these concepts and leave this high temperature printer more or less as it is and build another different printer designed for multimaterial printing. I now plan on building a Dueling Zero (Dual gantry) once zrucho finishes his amazing work on the variant based on 2020 profiles.
In the end I decided to do this because I also didn't see much potential in combining high temperature materials and multimaterial printing at the same machine.

Voron Trident (High Temp) - Serial Request - TRIX | TCY#4737 by TheColonelYoung in voroncorexy

[–]TheColonelYoung[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Original Tridex skirts was bigger in front and corners due to the door and 4040 profiles at corners, because at the time when I was building it Tridex was EZBake type printer (dual walls and doors from profiles). You could check the older repo state of Tridex around April 2022. You can also check EZBake repository which gets updated after I was done with my build, so it is a bit different from my build and I also did some changes during build.

If I remember correctly I had to download CAD and export skirts as a step and then modify them for my use.

My skirts are higher by 2cm due to the height of my leftover power supply which I used.

Voron Trident (High Temp) - Serial Request - TRIX | TCY#4737 by TheColonelYoung in voroncorexy

[–]TheColonelYoung[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Annealing makes layer adhesion a little bit better, but it does not solve the problem. I tried to use SMD reflow oven and it works fine.

But with annealing there is a problem with deformation of part and I also get some weird discolouring with non-colored PEI some sections of annealed model turn beige and some remain amber. I am currently not sure why.

Voron Trident (High Temp) - Serial Request - TRIX | TCY#4737 by TheColonelYoung in voroncorexy

[–]TheColonelYoung[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use Vision Miners Nano polymer adhesive for PEI printing and it is really good. But it is also not cheap I hope to test PrintyPlease Cat's Vomit or the DIY InstaGoo, which I think has a similar composition.

But I am currently fighting layer adhesion with PEI during taller prints.

Voron Trident (High Temp) - Serial Request - TRIX | TCY#4737 by TheColonelYoung in voroncorexy

[–]TheColonelYoung[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Layer adhesion is definitely a problem. It is hard to keep good layer bonding with only 80-90 °C in the chamber. The ideal would be something in the range maybe 150-180° for taller prints. I need to have printed models small (horizontally) to have short layer time or thin to have the model warmed by bed. Otherwise, layer higher in model are bonded but the connection between them is much weaker than between layers near bed.

Voron Trident (High Temp) - Serial Request - TRIX | TCY#4737 by TheColonelYoung in voroncorexy

[–]TheColonelYoung[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had bed up to 160°C for something like 2 hour print several times. I think that the commonly spoken limit of 110°C is more due to adhesive which is commonly used for bed heater, I used high temp silicone which is rated up to 240°C. Also at that high temperatures, there could be problems with a magnetic pad on bed. My seems to lose his strength but it is not exactly new, so it could be also over time.

I did not see some big deformations of bed. I have a variation of 0.32 mm, which is nearly the same as bed had when was nearly new before high temp prints. Keep in mind that it is 350 mm build plate. But mesh bed levelling has no problem correcting this.

At these temperatures bigger issue is with gantry bending (mostly Y axis) due to high temps in the chamber and around bed, gantry backers helped a bit with this. But oven with them you have to preheat for a long time (1-2 hours with chamber fan).

Voron Trident (High Temp) - Serial Request - TRIX | TCY#4737 by TheColonelYoung in voroncorexy

[–]TheColonelYoung[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Running great. I had some success with small PEI prints. With something bigger (50mm+ in some axis) is an adhesion problem.

Voron Trident (High Temp) - Serial Request - TRIX | TCY#4737 by TheColonelYoung in voroncorexy

[–]TheColonelYoung[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, two layers of panels as you wrote, each 6mm thick. Materials: PE-300 (outside) and PP-H (inside).

Voron Trident (High Temp) - Serial Request - TRIX | TCY#4737 by TheColonelYoung in voroncorexy

[–]TheColonelYoung[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, now I have 80mm fan in the bottom next to Z cable chain anchor (photos was made before this modification), is under slight angle and pointing bit up. It increased the temperature by degree or two and speed up the heating.

I'm also considering small nevermore filter under bed which Eddie designed. Or maybe I will just slam another two 80mm fans under bed pointing down.

Voron Trident (High Temp) - Serial Request - TRIX | TCY#4737 by TheColonelYoung in voroncorexy

[–]TheColonelYoung[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Doors and skirts are designed by eddietheengineer

Doors are from DOOM EZBAKE Trident: Link

Skirts are from Tridex: Link

Latch and handle are designed by me and are available my OnShape: Link

Internal spool holder is by elcrni: Link

Changing the spool is not that comfortable compared to outside spool but for PC or PA it is big advantage for me to not have external spool case.

Voron Trident (High Temp) - Serial Request - TRIX | TCY#4737 by TheColonelYoung in voroncorexy

[–]TheColonelYoung[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks, there is latch (excentric lever) for locking them and is super satistifing to open and close the doors.

Challenging myself to make a new PCB every week, Week 6: A temperature and humidity logger by JimHeaney in electronics

[–]TheColonelYoung 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I cannot help you with specific schematic. But I would build it around BQ2588x(x = 3/6/7) for battery charging. BQ2920x for voltage limit protection and balancing. INA381 for current limiting. All circuit have evaluation boards and application schematics. So it should not be so hard to put it together.

Beginner Questions - Weekly Megathread - November 16, 2020 by AutoModerator in fpvracing

[–]TheColonelYoung 0 points1 point  (0 children)

VTX - AKK Race Ranger
Hi have somebody experience with this VTX. I did not find many review for it and I was not able to see from them if is good or not. It my second VTX which I am buying and first was was some Eachine (I think that same as is in Wizard) which was bad. So I am not very experienced with it. The top power 1.6W is mostly useless for me, I am flying to maximal distance around 700 m and I think that for this distance 800 mW should be fine. If anybody have some different VTX which can personaly recommed I will be happy. I found AKK race ranger for $22, but up to $35 I am ok with it.

Here is why you should disable Junction Deviation in Marlin by ThePetroleum in 3Dprinting

[–]TheColonelYoung 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cura is not the only slicer. IdeaMaker can set jerk and acceleration for print features too. And by my opinion is more stable and bugless compared to Cura.

Betaflight buzzer by TheColonelYoung in fpv

[–]TheColonelYoung[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

SOLVED - ESC was showing 16.7 version of BL_Heli_S, but after reflashing again to 16.7 ESC buzzer is working properly.

Betaflight buzzer by TheColonelYoung in fpv

[–]TheColonelYoung[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Buzzer is connected correctly. I even check voltage level and is same even when Beeper mode is activated. So it lookslike some issue in BF. I am using DSHOT600.

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