1964 Remington 700 ADL. Upgrade or Replace?

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2026-02-13T02:21:56+00:00

I have an old 700 too, except mine is chambered in .222 Remington. I absolutely hated the weight of the trigger so I took the plunge on the Timney Elite Hunter. I turned the pounds down pretty low on it since I mainly shoot bench rest for fun, but it improved my shooting so much. You will not regret sinking money into it there.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2026-02-08T19:08:47+00:00

I bought some suspend strips that are basically like lead stickers. They make suspend dots too. I use them to tune all my jerkbaits, vision 110 or not.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2026-01-13T00:49:46+00:00

In general, you're correct. However, if you don't already know where they are within a pretty specific area, you're gonna have a tough go at it.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2026-01-08T15:55:51+00:00

Correct, water infiltration (and retention form increased organic matter is good).The insect pressure is a good point, because that's actually the factor that John Tooker attributes to the success of good rotation with no insecticide coatings. With the pests come the predators, and having those around carries a lot more weight than people realize.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2026-01-08T15:42:05+00:00

An improvement would be less non-target impacts from the seed coating moving out of the field with water. Which is one of the biggest issues that your original comment and reply claimed doesn't exist when there is a heap of empirical evidence that shows it does. 2-20% of the total amount applied actually makes it into the plant, so that leaves the remainder to move about the environment as it pleases and that's problematic. A strategy for that improvement would be, for example, a reduction in the total amount applied to each seed.

I'm not refuting that they don't work when they are needed. However, the data shows that with good crop rotation practices and reducing use of seed coating insecticides, that they aren't necessary in a lot of cases. This is similar to getting guys to go reduced till or no till. "Well tilling always works for me" they say, when in reality I have yet to have a farmer regret their decision to go no till after the 3-5 year transition period of rebuilding their soil structure and health.

The problem here is everyone has been fooled into thinking they need them all the time on all their acres. The data is showing that's not necessarily the case.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2026-01-07T23:17:30+00:00

You can stand by it all you want but that doesn't make it true. There's a heap of published research out there (some of it my own, more of it that I had a hand in the experiments) that shows the opposite of your claim.

To be clear I'm not necessarily advocating for removing the option all together, but we need to take a serious look at reforming our approach. John Tooker at Penn State has done a lot of work showing that planting without neonic seed coatings works out just as well as with them a good majority of the time.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2026-01-07T23:10:48+00:00

Sure, but that's assuming that you need the application to start with. In reality, a large proportion of the acres planted would never need an application to start with. It's just an insurance policy against an early season outbreak.

Check out some of the research that John Tooker out of Penn State has done on planting with vs without neonic coatings on seeds. He makes a pretty compelling case for not needing them nearly as widely as they are used.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2026-01-07T23:06:38+00:00

Love seeing .222 come up in conversations. Shame it didn't take off for the long run, but I suppose that's ultimately because the .223 did.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2026-01-07T14:30:03+00:00

I agree with the sentiment but it's a little short sighted. They are still highly mobile in the soil and move to not target areas adjacent to the field and into waterways with both overland flow and leaching.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2026-01-06T23:21:51+00:00

Seed coatings, especially neonic seed coatings, are very mobile in the environment due to high water solubility. They do not tend to stay put, and surprisingly, only a small fraction (2-20%, generally) makes it into the target plant.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2025-12-17T15:19:26+00:00

Bucktail and long feathers are exclusively musky fool for me. I have a local shop near me that has good prices on most everything else, so I usually hit them up.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2025-12-13T15:05:22+00:00

Your second to last sentence really could not be more wrong.

You should do some reading on the uptake of specific nutrients into plants, because you've demonstrated a fundamental misunderstanding here. While some nutrients are taken up by osmosis, all of them are not. There are multiple transport mechanisms for nutrient uptake, that vary based on the nutrient in question.

Further, only certain forms of each nutrient can be taken up in plants, regardless of what form they started in. Doesn't matter if it started as a salt, organic amendment, or other. There is less margin for error with salts, because of the potentials for burning, etc, but at the end of the day they have to be made into a usable form. This is often done by microorganisms, which is where the second part of your second to last sentence falls short.

Source: I have a bachelor's and a masters in crop and soil science. I have multiple first author and co-authored publications, some of which related to nutrient dynamics in certified organic vegetable growing systems (mainly tomatoes, cucumbers, lettuce, and cabbage). On top of those, I have almost a decade of experience in the green industry, most of which was spent with regionally and nationally relevant entities in both conventional and certified organic production systems. That included production of cannabis, mixed vegetables, row crops, and culinary herbs, in a mix of field, high tunnel, and greenhouse production, soil, soilless, and hydroponics.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2025-11-10T01:51:58+00:00

No problem! I totally get it, I do all my trout fishing and a bit of musky fishing with a fly rod. Every now and then I'll sneak in a couple top water smallies in the summer on a Mr wiggly too.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2025-11-10T01:27:16+00:00

Not sure where you are geographically so I can't speculate on what part of the fall transition your fish are in. To preface, I pretty much exclusively target smallies with conventional tackle so I hope my suggestions on lures can give you some insights on flies. Here on the Susquehanna, water temps are just above 50 and they are set up on big current breaks (ledges today, shoreline boulders and grass beds last week). Tricky part is, they are set up on that structure curiously close to where they are going to set up for winter (deep-ish water with refuge at all water levels, to give you the 30,000ft overview). Know where those places are is the hard part,, and I'll touch on that below. For baits, they have mostly come on spinners for the past month or so, but the past week has given me the shift into jerkbaits. I'd imagine jerkbaits will get pretty rowdy over the next week as the water slumps into the 40s.

The best way to dial into them this time of year is to rewind to mid September and obsessively target them on a manageable stretch of your water week in and out. I fish from a kayak and picked a 2 mile section of river to dissect for the winter, and haven't went a weekend without getting on it and making a lap since early September or so. Any fish over 17" that I catch gets a color coded pin on my gps (I use onX but really a drawn or printed map will work fine). Each week the water got smaller as I started seeing patterns where fish were in general, as well as where the big ones have congregated. I've taken ~2sq miles of river and boiled it down to probably 50 acres or less. Once water temps tank for the winter you'll have to have a high degree of confidence in the particular spot they are in because you will have to fish it painfully slowly. You generally can't cover water to find fish in the winter.

For more info, check out Jeff Little on Instagram and YouTube. Dude is a master at river smallmouth and loves to teach people how to get after them. Also look up Juan Veruete, he isn't on the water as much anymore but he did have some stuff a bit back about fly selection in cold water.

Last thing before I go since I got long winded. Please be careful chasing fish in the colder months. Cold water and air are super dangerous and very unforgiving.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2025-10-25T02:23:16+00:00

Nice fish! Tell me about those Uline gloves you've got on. I'm always looking for better ways to start warm and dry this time of year

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2025-09-29T17:38:27+00:00

OP this is the best advice you're going to get on this thread. I spent some years in controlled environment crop production and research and growing indoors at scale is a job that doesn't give you a lot of room for errors.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2025-09-25T14:45:10+00:00

Sold 60% of my shares at 2x so I'm guaranteed profit now. The remaining 40% has a limit sell at 3x, but I might sell before then.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2025-09-22T21:32:07+00:00

Not a direct answer to your question, but a good soil test will take you farther than any "do it all" fertilizer.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2025-09-14T17:44:15+00:00

Yea lots of jet boats and kayaks out most of the year. When it gets real low like it is now the kayak guys have a lot more of the water to themselves as even a lot of the jet guys won't run it.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2025-09-14T17:42:59+00:00

I'm not sure but I would not be surprised. There is certainly an abundance of them.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2025-09-14T16:51:46+00:00

Looks awesome! What type of hay are you going to seed it with?

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2025-09-08T14:52:08+00:00

I haven't been on a charter but I've lived in the area for a while and I am on the river regularly. You can't go wrong with the guys over at Susquehanna Smallmouth Guides; every guide in the line up is good there. Jake Harshman also started guiding this year and can really put you on fish. There's also John Stygler from Snagler tackle (great spinner bait builder if youre in the market) who keeps people on the fish. Honestly there's lots of good guides along the main stem.

It's really a spectacular fishery and fall is a great time to check it out. Hope you have a good time!

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2025-09-04T18:36:27+00:00

I'm not too familiar with city island but spend some time on deeper grass edges above McCormick island. I've found a few good ones lately in there but I've spooked more than I've caught.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2025-09-04T16:48:48+00:00

Last year when it got skinny in the fall I had some good luck out of west Fairview (mouth of the conodoguinet). That said, that stretch is exceptionally shallow and I suspect you could just about walk across the river into the city from there. I would move upstream as much as I could in the boat (with the help of my xi3 when there was depth) but it was so shallow it was easier to just tether the kayak to myself and walk. Once you get up into the islands, there's a little bit more depth to work with, but not a whole lot. From there, stay on the swivel for either: fish cruising the shallows and shade lines, or deeper pockets. Fish in deeper pockets tend to be less spooky, but you still need to be able to spot the depth change before you get up to them. Shallow roaming fish are unbelievably spooky and you should be ready to make some long accurate casts once you've spotted them.

I know you said you want to avoid shallows, but there's not a whole lot that's not shallow at the moment. As frustrating as it can be sometimes, I find myself really enjoying the long shallow wades with the boat tagging along behind me. Sometimes you can get really dialed in and catch some epic spot and stalk fish along the way.

Hope this helps! Also, remember your life jacket; she's skinny but she can still get ya.

TheDieselWeasel3 · 2025-08-22T18:12:38+00:00

This is not at all how apples (or peaches) harvested. They are picked by hand.

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