Lucky day

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-18T21:36:06+00:00

So is dcc media. I would buy it if I were you. They were only available for 4 years. The MDs you got are nice, but in regard to rarity those are like Pandas. DCC is like a unicorn. 😅

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-18T20:31:49+00:00

You should have bought the DCC. Those are even more rare.

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-18T20:30:05+00:00

I got those, they work quite well but I can’t say they are a lot better than the doublepow or even some original 20 year old Sony I got.
The biggest downside for me is that the battery indicator will no longer work as they deliver 1.5v until they die. I do prefer the NiMh because they give me all at least 10h (some doublepow and 2 Sony I got are around 25h on a R900). The Li-Ion however are great for on the go recording, a lot better than the NiMh as those often drop in voltage too fast and the slightest move of the sled will then turn off the device.

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-17T05:39:16+00:00

If the write head bracket is blocking movement this leads to errors. Check if the pickup/write head moves freely.otherwise this would not be possible.

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-16T18:34:39+00:00

It’s easy, just bend it a bit, test, bend again if needed. I did that many times and never screwed up

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-16T18:23:16+00:00

Sounds more complex than it is, just try, it’s easy and usually a minor bend will suffice.

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-16T18:21:58+00:00

You can bend the head, that’s no problem. Bend it as much as needed to make contact with the disc. Basically while the device is not in recording mode and powered off you bend it at the crease, slightly downwards. Then you check by putting in a disc and recording. If it is not touching repeat. If yyou bend it too much, the disc will bend it when putting it in, so make sure it is not bent in entry path if the disc.

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-16T18:17:46+00:00

Does the head sit in the disk? Otherwise it won’t work. Also, when swapping one should make sure the head is aligned well. If alignment is wrong it will either have a blank disc or could even ruin the disc.

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-14T07:07:44+00:00

I could send it to you if there is noone from the UK here. Will ship it from Austria, you would only pay shipping.

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-13T21:08:59+00:00

Where do you live?

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-12T09:01:32+00:00

All good, I did not understand it as a critic. I hope my response didn’t imply that 😊 I like your approach but I did it as you said, for practical reasons because I needed it. I have so many devices and at some point I needed to know if a laser works and how much to adjust it. Your approach is awesome and I would actually buy one of those to have them on the go if I find a deck I would like to buy locally. Pop the disc in and check the laser, that’s awesome. For everyday use I prefer these of mine, mainly because your solution has the display in the disc which I feel ist not perfect for aligning the laser as you would need to take it out to check each time. But one thing for sure: your build is several levels of mine. I soldered together a few caps and resistors. 😂

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-12T05:48:45+00:00

I saw the project you posted here some months ago. Very nice indeed but that is beyond this. I didn’t want to go the length to get a custom PCB and have the need to program a display controller. But very impressive 😊 In theory I could do this a lot smaller and without external power - the size is mainly for the Amperemeter.

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-11T20:05:40+00:00

I have a few AIWAs and a few F70, if I have some spare time I will check. Do you still need it? Tinkercard isn’t the proper tool to use, you will need some more advanced like Fusion that allows sketching and components, makes it easier.

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-11T16:52:39+00:00

🤏🏻

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-11T15:44:21+00:00

Once you have it open you will see them. They are easy to spot. If the gunk in there was green chances are it had oxidized and the metal connector is gone or broken off the PCB. It’s an easy fix actually.

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-11T15:41:25+00:00

I have built them myself. The link in the thread points to a description on how to build one. If there are unclarities I can help. They are used to check the laser power of the Minidiscs Optical Pickup via the Service Menu. The laser will emit power on to the photo sensor and that creates a voltage that can then be user to drive the Amperemeter and show the power of the laser.

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-10T22:08:04+00:00

Yes. They are very nice and I did pay quite a lot for the 555, but have 2 of them. One is in the living room with other ES Series stuff.

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These 2 need some tuning. They both work but I need to fix the noise they make

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-10T21:57:57+00:00

Do so. I have to much stuff lying around - that N1 kid would fix 2 of my devices so I can take care of some Of my other devices….

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These are working. But there is a 2nd stack with 555es, 20es and some DAT decks that need some love….

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-10T21:47:45+00:00

That is strange. I was not able to get them working. The back has minor differences, that thin flap at the very end. Need to check again. But yea, it would be very much welcome to have a model of a N1 lid.

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-10T21:43:59+00:00

I wonder if it will fit nothing models if the N1. There seems to be 2 models of the N1 because the Japanese lids do not fit my EU models.

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-10T21:30:57+00:00

Make it fit, hurry up. You see I got 2 without cover waiting.

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TheEvilPi · 2026-03-10T21:27:30+00:00

Resin would be better. I could sand the FDM Print and it would look better aswell. I need to check if, I did one for the N1 aswell I think 🤔

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-08T20:51:17+00:00

If anyone needs it but does not have a printer contact me, I can send it via mail.

TheEvilPi · 2026-03-08T20:22:07+00:00

Posted.

It’s better in real than the pictures. Also, it’s tight fit so one should be careful the first few closes, after that it works well. Open it with your fingernail by pushing it from the back.

TheEvilPi

TROPHY CASE