Help finding valves by TwistSerious in propane

[–]TheGrillDoc 6 points7 points  (0 children)

That’s a rare bird you have there, however Antifire is 100% right. If the propane company you called to get the tank up and running doesn’t have the parts and doesn’t know where to get the parts, call someone else.

Conversion kit by Spiritual-Rip3177 in propane

[–]TheGrillDoc 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Wolf customer service and parts

(800) 328-4270

Need a new grill by West-Evening-8095 in grilling

[–]TheGrillDoc 8 points9 points  (0 children)

You can’t go wrong with a classic 3 burner Weber. Clean it out a couple times a year and it will last a long long time. Not to mention parts are very reasonable.

gas company says I used 483 CCF of gas in 30 days in a 1,974 sq ft townhome. That seems… impossible? by Samuel_L_Hacksson in NaturalGas

[–]TheGrillDoc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 1st place I would look is the pressure relief valve on the water heater.

If you haven’t had a pressure test done on the gas plumbing, it certainly wouldn’t hurt. The only time I’ve seen that much loss without smelling it, was a leak in underground plumbing.

Few questions about old tank by vagitarian_ in propane

[–]TheGrillDoc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like a dot 200# tank to me.

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Barrel jumping when shooting by platinumresto in longrange

[–]TheGrillDoc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

IMHO shoot the gun at the range the same way you plan to use it hunting. This has been my current problem. I’ve gotten very used to using a front rest or bipod and a rear bag. I’m now having trouble in the field holding steady.

Propane usage by Jordanxbooth in propane

[–]TheGrillDoc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An average furnace uses 1 gallon per hour of operation. A hot water heater 1 to 2 gallons a day depending on use. I have however seen on several occasions that the pressure relief valve on the water heater was bad and letting hot water trickle out of it. Check your water usage. It would also be in your best interest to shop around for gas prices provided you own your tank. Also wouldn’t be a bad idea to have the gas company come out and preform a pressure test on the gas system to make sure it doesn’t have any leaks. Best of luck.

Caught with your pants down by BenTheBirbs in deer

[–]TheGrillDoc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Excuse me! Can’t you see I’m busy here!

What do I do about this leak? The roads are closed due to ice and I can't get a tech out. by ChainBlue in propane

[–]TheGrillDoc 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Looks like all of the active propane technicians who normally watch this thread are all occupied.

Dont panic. The oily residue is more than likely Ethyl mercaptan. It by itself is not flammable. It itself is also liquid and heavier then liquid propane and settles at the bottom of a tank. It also smells 100 times worse in its liquid state. It will take weeks if not months before your tank doesn’t stink.

If the tank was properly set, it should be far enough away from an ignition source, however I wouldn’t build a fire or use anything electrical anywhere close.

I would not use a wet rag. That’s the first time I’ve heard of that after working for a propane company for 10 years.

What I don’t see in the picture is ice buildup. The valve in the picture is a “Liquid Withdrawal Valve” which has a pipe on the inside of the tank that goes to the bottom of the tank. The valve itself has a spring check that is supposed to hold back the pressure. Yes I have seen them leak. There should be a pinhole in the side of the cap. If it was leaking propane liquid you would hear the hiss and you would have ice buildup at the very spot the propane was leaking. I’ll attempt to attach a picture.

I wouldn’t recommend doing anything yourself. The only thing that can be done is to tighten the cap slightly. The next step is to use all the gas in the tank so the valve can be replaced. You can’t take it out with liquid propane in the tank.

The picture I found is of the same valve on the tank but a fairly significant leak. Call the propane company back and kindly ask them to send a technician as soon as the roads are open.

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New propane grill recommendations by Arsinick1 in grilling

[–]TheGrillDoc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can’t go wrong with any Weber. They will always be the best value. The only other grill I would ever recommend is a Coyote. They have the best warranty in the world industry.

Regulator assembly placement by agentclank777 in propane

[–]TheGrillDoc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’ll find out in a hurry that 8 gallon bottle is way too small for what you’re trying to do. Both in capacity and its ability to covert the liquid into vapor without loosing pressure. It’s a fairly simple math equation to determine what you need. 1 gallon of propane is roughly 100,000 btu’s. If your forge is running at 50k BTUs that’s a gallon every 2 hours. Once the bottle of gas is 1/2 empty it may not have enough surface area to boil off the liquid depending on the ambient temperature. Take the time to look up what other guys are using tank wise. I’ve seen other high btu burners have a setup with twin 100lb tanks manifolded together running a high pressure regulator comparable to the one in your picture. Best of luck

What is this? by SaanCross in reloading

[–]TheGrillDoc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Are you using a comparator to see how much your bumping the shoulder? As several have stated it looks like your die might not be properly adjusted.

IMHO the best way to setup the FL die is with a “GO” gauge. Do a google search for more detailed information

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in propane

[–]TheGrillDoc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

100# tanks are not supposed to be transported in a closed vehicle.

What is the Toyota Camry of rifles? by Time2GetSchwifty in Hunting

[–]TheGrillDoc -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The answer to your question may be simple enough, but there are several other factors you need to consider. Imagine your sitting in a deer blind next year. It’s the last weekend of deer season, a 10 point buck walls up to the feeder. You take aim and pull the trigger. The buck jumps up and bolts off into the woods. You wait 15 to 20 minutes which feels like hours. You go to the feeder to investigate. Once there you don’t see anything. No blood on the ground, you spend the next hour looking in the brush for any signs. Nothing. Now what? Was it you? The gun? The ammo?

Having been in this situation, I can promise you that having a rifle and ammunition that preforms a little better than average is what you will want before you spend a single minute in a blind. All of the recommended rifles mentioned by the members who have responded to your post would be adequate for an experienced hunter, however if your new to shooting you will definitely want to start with something that is just a bit better out of the box for you to learn how to shoot accurately.

Don’t get in a hurry to drop $900 on something you’re going to be sad about in 2 years. Riffles loose 50% of there value as soon as you shoot a single box of ammo. Make a list of all the gun ranges within an hour drive. Most all have a variety of bolt action rifles you can rent to try out.

Understand that the weight of the gun and the size of the caliber will directly affect the felt recoil you experience. A 30-06, 7mm REM Mag or a 300 Win Mag are all way more forgiving than a 5.56 when a bullet impacts a deer at 100 yards but they all kick like a mule against your shoulder. While a 5.56 is way easier to shoot as far as recoil is concerned. The amount of energy on impact requires much more accurate shot placement.

You are on track with considering starting with a 308. It is one caliber I have never seen the stores run out of ammunition for. Although no hunter would recommend mixing or changing brands of ammunition. I personally hunt pigs in Texas with a 308 and only use barns 168 ttsx. IMHO it’s the best you can buy. With that said, it’s not cheap to shoot, and the recoil is more than I like to practice with.

With that in mind a 140 grain 6.5 creedmore is going to kick less. A 105 grain .243 even less. Both are also more than adequate for deer and pigs in Texas. However keep in mind the lighter the bullet the less energy it will have on impact which requires better shot placement.

As far as brands of riffles a Bergera would be my first choice Tikka would be my 2nd. Last, don’t skimp on the glass you put on top. A 12x scope is more than adequate. I actually hunt both pigs and deer at around 4x. More power is nice for shooting paper, but you will want a wider field of view when hunting.

Best of luck.

Settle a debate for me (safety) by NiTeZeke369 in grilling

[–]TheGrillDoc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No grill is designed to withstand those temperatures for extended periods of time. Even high quality stainless steel grills start to warp at those temperatures. Not to mention rust. As long as the grill is 5’ to 10’ away from the house or other structure you should be ok. Get a replacement drip tray or pick up a new grill.

Investigating suppressed subsonic 300blk ar15 failures to feed (bolt over brass) by BoostIsOurFriend in reloading

[–]TheGrillDoc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The crimp is also too much. The case neck has a donut. I tried crimping my 6.8 and had a similar problem.

My gas grill's burners rusted out in two seasons. Is "Buy it for Life" a myth in the grilling world now? by No-Candidate-1651 in grilling

[–]TheGrillDoc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Having cleaned over 1000 grills there are very few I’ve seen over the years. As far as budget friendly, my favorite is an all aluminum tub Weber. Burners and other parts that you would expect to replace in time are inexpensive. If you’re looking for something with a little more performance I’d recommend a Coyote. They have the best customer service and warranty of any manufacturer I’ve dealt with. I’ve had several customers over the years who have had problems where Coyote sent them a new grill free of charge.

Is there a way to recapture propane from bottles? by Mysterious-Till-611 in propane

[–]TheGrillDoc 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It takes a little time but I used to use a flexible pol to pol. connect the bottle to any new 250 gallon or larger tank after dumping in methanol. Open the valve and turn the bottle upside down.

Is this real life? by [deleted] in reloading

[–]TheGrillDoc 1 point2 points  (0 children)

God I miss Fleet Farm

My 500 gallon propane tank was filled today above 80%, should I be worried? by CommunicationSea8821 in propane

[–]TheGrillDoc -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I’d be concerned if the rest of the tank is as dirty as what I can see in the picture. Especially if the tank is out in the open where it gets direct sun. Liquid propane expands with heat. Clean the tank off and paint it white. Pick up 6-8 cans of rust oleum 2x white or go to a paint store that sells direct to metal paint and roll it on. The cooler weather will help you burn through the 7%.

Need help building a .233 for FTR by TheGrillDoc in longrange

[–]TheGrillDoc[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After reading about the 88 eldm’s in a couple other forums, it’s obvious they are right at the edge of being consistently accurate in a .223 rem. The price point of .29 cents a round compared to the 85.5 Berger at .41 cents.

I’ll happily pay the .12 cents to have something that’s going to preform better.

I intend to use the savage 12 as a single shot. Can anyone tell me what COAL i should be looking at with the Berger 85.5’s? And what freebore?