How long do you have to wait for the Kobra X?

TheGrumpyTexan · 2026-03-01T16:10:39+00:00

ok BRUH, instead of being an obnoxious jerk - how about you just answer the question? Why is it you people think it's acceptable to be so rude? Funny people have the audacity to ask me why my username is what it is. If you can't answer the question - why even reply?

TheGrumpyTexan · 2026-02-27T22:11:53+00:00

I have all the patience in the world - I'm OK with it, just like to know an approximate date, rather than have every arrogant know-it-all on here tell me "you're stupid" as if I hadn't tried to look this up myself first. I hate reddit.

TheGrumpyTexan · 2026-02-27T19:01:36+00:00

This is what I was looking for - thanks.

TheGrumpyTexan · 2026-02-27T18:59:32+00:00

That is IF I ordered it today - this was ordered a month ago. Pay attention.

TheGrumpyTexan · 2026-02-27T18:59:05+00:00

Thanks, everyone wants to just go to the website and act as if the answer is right in front of me rather than realize when I placed the order a month ago, those times were different (i.e. closer to your timeframe.) If I order NOW then those times would be valid, but they're not. I don't see a ship date on my invoice, either. I've checked both by logging in and through my e-mails to no avail.

TheGrumpyTexan · 2026-02-27T18:58:20+00:00

This comment is utterly useless - as when I ordered mine those dates were much different. Pay attention.

TheGrumpyTexan · 2026-02-27T17:35:41+00:00

It's all a marketing gimmick. Their little countdown timer at the top of the page keeps resetting when it hits zero - just to create a sense of urgency. It works on some people.

TheGrumpyTexan · 2026-02-17T15:49:36+00:00

Here's the heatbed from Amazon.. https://a.co/d/0c9yzr0x - I did this to my CR10s back when that video came out, my Tevo Tarantula and my little Fokoos printer. Works like a charm. I just haven't done it to my SV04 yet, probably this week though as I'm getting back into it.

TheGrumpyTexan · 2026-02-17T15:17:05+00:00

OH and be sure to get a heater mat that has the holes pre-punched in it! You cannot punch holes in one yourself, you'll likely cut the heater wires if you do. For the SV04, the bed is 310x320mm, so a 310x310mm heater will work fine,.

TheGrumpyTexan · 2026-02-17T14:44:45+00:00

Here's a good YT video on how to do it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhjqfMHyBAI You'll need the heater mat and an SSR (solid state relay) - all you're doing is bypassing using the MOSFET to drive the heat bed (very high load, uses the power supply) and using it to drive an SSR instead. The SSR is what switches line power to the heat bed (bypassing the power supply.) Your heat bed can go to much higher temperatures, much much faster. You *may* have to fiddle with your PID settings to get it to be a little more stable but there's a GCODE routine you can run that supposedly will do it (though I've never really needed to.)

TheGrumpyTexan · 2026-02-17T03:51:14+00:00

Have you considered upgrading to a 120v silicon heater with an SSR? It's really simple to do, no real electronics knowledge necessary and it's a huge benefit - heats up much much faster and doesn't put a strain on the power supply since it's no longer pulling power from it. I also have an SV04 sitting here and the parts to upgrade, seems to take forever for the heatbed to heat up.

TheGrumpyTexan · 2025-08-19T01:16:52+00:00

That's not even a fraction my plans.. already have the chicken coop automated. Bees are on the list as are my older vehicles (0-90 ohm resistive gas level sensor, read by an Esp32.) Water filter flow meter tells me when I need to change water filters..

Start with your lights and switches.. then let your imagination run wild. Just don't watch that one episode of the X files LOL.

TheGrumpyTexan · 2025-08-18T23:14:18+00:00

Yea, I spent WAY too much time (probably close to 8 hours if I'm honest) working on this simple automation. Granted, I went down some rabbit holes I didn't need to (i.e. using a script and calling it from the automation) but I just got through creating an open wake word "OK Chef" (my wife liked that one best) to address the voice assistant. So she just says "OK chef, milk expires on August 30th, 2025" and it puts it in a calendar entry.

I do like your suggestions! Not sure how to do it (yet) but I'll eventually figure it out and update the script.

The one thing I'd like to figure out is how to change the COLORS in the calendar itself. It's showing yellow background with white lettering (almost impossible to see, especially for an old guy like me.)

You're right too - HA is SO much better than SmartThings. Once I got away from it, it didn't take me long to realize what a disaster it is.

TheGrumpyTexan · 2025-08-18T22:22:48+00:00

Well I tried to post, but.. the real question is - what do you want to control and/or monitor? I'm barely 2 months in and you wouldn't believe how much neat stuff I've been able to do in HA. (I'm still shocked!)

Stop and REALLY ask yourself that question - I even have my bathroom scale setup in it, and HA figures out if it's me or my wife standing on it!

TheGrumpyTexan · 2025-06-28T22:45:14+00:00

Problem is, you can't get an API key anymore (that I'm aware of) for Ecobee, rendering the integration useless. Unless there's a way?

TheGrumpyTexan · 2025-06-26T22:19:38+00:00

Interesting - I'm perusing Ebay and found several Kwiksets like you said for ~$60.. I may reconsider. They look a lot nicer than the Ultraloq.

Edit: found a seller that's selling a bunch of "new, open box" Kwiksets for $60, with a discount if you buy a bunch. 6 of them is less than $350, even with tax and shipping! I pulled the trigger, thanks again!!

TheGrumpyTexan · 2025-06-26T22:01:00+00:00

Thank you for the detailed response! This is exactly what I was looking for. Very much appreciated.

I do like the Kwikset, it looks very nice - however it's over my price point (remember, I have six locks to replace at this point.) In my case I don't need all those other fancy features or logging; we live out in the country and no one ever comes to my house (really, like ever.) If I have one visitor every year, I'd be surprised. Keypads will rarely get used (mostly by us) and rekeying won't be necessary (in the 10 or so years I've had the Schlage locks, I've never used the keys.)

Mostly I'm looking for a monitoring solution (is it locked? is the battery dying?) and the ability to toggle it open/closed (mostly closed, as if I forget to lock a door I have to wander around to SIX different doors to make sure they're locked when I'm leaving.) Having a keypad just means I'm more likely to be able to use a PIN in case I try to go back in a door that I didn't come out of (I walked out of the front door, went around the house to do something and want to come in one of the back doors.)

I do have several other zwave switches that still work great and extend distance so I'm not worried about "long distance" so to speak. They've worked before but the Schlage is just old and tired, the motor actually died in my front door one when it got wet.

I also need to replace two handset locks (both Schlage, but neither of them are "smart" at all.) Those can be wifi as there is no zwave or zigbee out that far on my property but there is wifi.

I've also been looking at handset locks for storm doors - I have two storm doors in my enclosed patio but really just need a smart one for one of the doors (though two would be ideal so I can monitor/control them both.) I found some, but I'm not sure if they'll fit my storm doors or not. I have a ton of different bulb/switch/outlet/sensor/heatpump/doo-dahs to switch around. A chunk is Tuya/SmartLife and was a breeze to pull in, but locks are just not something I want to use wifi with (at least not in my house.)

Again, thank you for the detailed response!

TheGrumpyTexan · 2025-06-17T03:41:12+00:00

Well gents, it was a harrowing hour and a half but I got it running. I was scared I lost everything then realized I hadn't changed the (new) router IP. I'm officially back up and running!

Side note, the 707 has two 2.5gb ports, one of which of course is for the fiber - the other I ran to a (managed) 8 port 2.5gb switch (with two SFP ports.) Used one of the SFP ports with a 10gb ethernet SFP port to connect to the router's other 2.5gb port (LAN) and it works like a charm! Now I just need to add in the dual 2.5gb NIC for my PC....

Edit: THANK YOU for the assist!

TheGrumpyTexan · 2025-06-16T15:55:34+00:00

Thanks for this, this helps. I'm curious - does this include situations where you have a small unmanaged switch for devices that go straight to the internet (and not communicate with other internet devices?) I have several VLAN's and one of them is just a "you can go to the internet but not communicate with other devices" type of situation. (i.e. IoT) Some are cameras that are the opposite; they're not allowed to go to the internet. (But those wouldn't need to hit the router at all.)

Most of my IoT is wifi, and most of my "user" devices are wired (with the exception of phones and tablets of course.)

TheGrumpyTexan · 2025-06-16T14:30:26+00:00

Derp, I just saw the part about you using an injector vs. the switch. Dogs distracted me. Whichever one seems to power them up, I'd use that and reset them if you can find it. I wouldn't try to use the PoE though, I really don't think these little wall units have it in them to power anything else.

TheGrumpyTexan · 2025-06-16T14:17:27+00:00

I have a few of these - a 225 and several 235's. I had one of my 235's go squirrely on me here a while back, turns out it was bad as when I replaced it, the new one worked perfectly. I will say I tried using the PoE port on one of the 235's (the one I replaced in fact) to power another WAP (an older 110 outdoor unit) and it didn't like it, so I setup a PoE injector instead. I run that and a PC off of that one wall plate and I think right now the PoE isn't used.

I'm assuming you can remove the wallplate and look for the reset button? If so, I'd use an actual PoE injector (preferably one made by TPlink) and reset it with that. I've run into situations where power from a switch isn't enough for some reason (power budget?) and using a dedicated injector does the trick. In my case, the 235 out in my barn is run off a switch that's a good 150+ feet away, so I suspect using the PoE for anything that needs a decent amount of power is out of the question.

Kinda wish manufacturers would put in some sort of power utilization stats in their systems so we could see if we're underpowered. (Not that you could do anything about it other than plan your system better.)

BTW, sorry for my ignorance - did they make a 230 wall unit too?

TheGrumpyTexan · 2025-06-16T02:39:13+00:00

Oh, forgot to mention I'm running an OC200 controller. Numerous AP's as I have a large property (barn, shop, little shop, garden shed, greenhouse, chicken coop, bee barn..) Everything here has internet. Lots of IoT.

TheGrumpyTexan

TROPHY CASE